Eco worthy E01 problem.

[mikehave]

Hi, Eco worthy 100w panel, Eco worthy 30A controller, Ultramax NP38-12 38ah deep cycle battery.
I’m trying to power a 9.6w led light string. My problem is that the system goes onto E01 error very quickly, cutting the load output, E01 indicating low battery voltage. Seems like the controller is protecting the battery, but obviously I need to run the lights at night.
Battery seems to have 12.67 volts across it consistently.

I think it’s all wired ok, but I’m new to this, I may have got it wrong, or maybe the components I have are incorrect?

thanks, Mike

 

[Rednecktek]

Battery seems to have 12.67 volts across it consistently.

That's way too low, your battery should be hanging out/floating at 13.8. I think there's something wrong with your charge settings that your controller is stopping the charge too early and/or cutting off on E01 too early.

I'm not holding my breath but if you can dig into the settings and find the Bulk, Boost, and Float voltage settings and post them we might be able to help get those in the right place.

I'm guessing by the lack of inverter listed that you're taking the LED strips right off the LOAD terminals of the controller? Or direct to battery?

 

[Jordi]

Hi, Eco worthy 100w panel, Eco worthy 30A controller, Ultramax NP38-12 38ah deep cycle battery.
I’m trying to power a 9.6w led light string. My problem is that the system goes onto E01 error very quickly, cutting the load output, E01 indicating low battery voltage. Seems like the controller is protecting the battery, but obviously I need to run the lights at night.
Battery seems to have 12.67 volts across it consistently.

I think it’s all wired ok, but I’m new to this, I may have got it wrong, or maybe the components I have are incorrect?

thanks, Mike

Quick fix while you investigate the possible controller error; wire the leds to the battery. But be careful the voltage does not go too low; or else you may compromise the health of the battery.

 

[mikehave]

Ok thanks, the solar charger has these voltage settings, as defaults:
charging voltage regulation: 14.4v
floating charge: 13.7v
lvr: 12.0v
lvd: 10.7v

it detected the battery as maintenance free lead, ‘B03’, this seems correct.
I have an inverter, not connected yet, I was trying to get the basic system running first, so the led lights are coming from the controllers load output.

 

[Jordi]

As soon as you connect the panels or battery to the controller (in sunny conditions); do you see the battery voltage doing a small step up in voltage?

Can you used the led lights from the controller without this one being connected to the battery and obviously receiving the panel sun?

Once I got a controller that acted normal (eg. detecting panel voltage and current) but in reality was not transferring current to the battery or loads.

 

[mikehave]

Thanks for your replies, I will do some tests as you suggest and report back. When I plugged it all together initially I noticed the charger didn’t boot up when I connected the battery (before the controller) so the controller or battery look suspect. I will try led lights direct from battery.

 

[Rednecktek]

I noticed the charger didn’t boot up when I connected the battery (before the controller)

That's mighty suspect right there! The first connection you should ever make is the controller to the battery so it can get all its voltage and battery parameters set. If it's not booting up when you connect the battery it sounds like the controller is bad.

Ok thanks, the solar charger has these voltage settings, as defaults:
charging voltage regulation: 14.4v
floating charge: 13.7v
lvr: 12.0v
lvd: 10.7v

it detected the battery as maintenance free lead, ‘B03’, this seems correct.
I have an inverter, not connected yet, I was trying to get the basic system running first, so the led lights are coming from the controllers load output.

That all looks mostly correct, not sure what LVR is but the LVD should be about 12.2v.

As soon as you connect the panels or battery to the controller (in sunny conditions); do you see the battery voltage doing a small step up in voltage?

That's going to tell you right away if the controller is bad, if the voltage doesn't go up to at least 13.7 then your SCC is borked. I've had pretty good luck with the 30a PowMr controller, and the 10a (which should be more than plenty for a single panel) is only $10.

The other test you can/should do if possible is to throw your battery on a regular battery charger, let it get topped off, then see if it holds voltage over a week or so. If it's dropping voltage not being connected to anything then your battery is borked too. Remember that the lead acid based batteries are only good for about 50% DoD so your 38Ah battery is only really good for 19Ah and then you start damaging the battery capacity.

 

[mikehave]

thanks again for your help, according to the manual LVR = low voltage re-connect.
The battery voltage is always 12.67v, whether connected to the controller or not, and whether under load via the controller or not.
When the led lights are connected directly to the battery, they work ok. I will charge the battery but it looks like the controller has had it !

 

[Rednecktek]

The battery voltage is always 12.67v, whether connected to the controller or not, and whether under load via the controller or not.

Yup, sounds like the controller is borked. Your voltage should be going up if the panels are producing and it's charging, and it should drop a bit when the load of the lights is activated.