42OhmsPA
Who likes Electrical Gremlins?
Nothing official. Download the manual for yours and the SRNE HYP and compare. I'm 100% confident.
Eco-Worthy Hybrid inverter
- Thread starter orion7144
- Start date
Another point of reference here for you: I have talked to my power company, but basically anonymously, unless they can correlate my phone number to account. Had two conversations with the person there who helps advise on solar, interconnection, etc. Bear in mind this is a smaller co-op which is far more ... relaxed I think, when it comes to this space. I also, happily, live in a state that is not regulation heavy, e.g., we're one of the last few still on NEC 2008, although I think they're on the way to 2017 or 2020, I can't remember.
The guy at the poco said I can interconnect if I want and the requirements are fairly standard. He said if I didn't want to interconnect, they didn't care what I do behind the meter as long as there's no backfeed. Even offered to set up someone to come pull the meter here if I needed to make changes to the mains feeds. If you have an inverter that can't backfeed (mine I think, technically can feed solar back, but I wouldn't do it. Not the correct certs, and I use too much power, I'd never have anything to sell back anyway).
I agree that you have to determine what 'risk' you're willing to take, but if there's no way for the inverter to backfeed, it's just another device behind the meter.
You're right, the manuals are an exact match. Thanks!
There is a so called certificate of conformity for the SRNE HYP, does it have any value here in the USA? And can it be applied to the Eco-Worthy brand since the OEM is SRNE?
Here is the certificate: https://www.srnesolar.com/userfiles/files/2023/07/18/HYP FCC SDOC Certification.pdf
Test Standards : FCC CFR Title 47, Part 15, Subpart B-Section 15.107 and
15.109
ANSI C63.4-2014
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FCC Part 15 specifically deals with radio frequency emissions primarily, good to have but….
See here :
Title 47 CFR Part 15 - Wikipedia
Also, it is highly unlikely that any OEM Certifications would apply to a sub brand since the sub brands can, and do, specify certain modifications/deletions chasing cost savings for their model.
Removing some RFI suppression components for example would allow a company to decrease price while using the same manual. Unfortunately that type of practice also violates FCC Part 15 but it’s rarely prosecuted.
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Lener
New Member
I have two of these units, I have them both running as single units , I have no issue with feedback power ( although there is an option from the user manual #34/to feeding extra power into the grid but I never use it I don’t if it’s actually working) I am up the Pocono mountain (PPL) it is very complex to connecting to the grid it is requires authorization from PPL , with several applications and plus a none refundable $800 fee. I had a 3000w plug and play producing about 20kw a month since I was not aware about authorization I went asking for a credit of course I get nothing but red tape then I just pulled the plug then PPL came to see if I had anything connecting directly to the grid.since my system is off grid backup system then everything is a okay
in a nut 
shell grid tied need authorization from your power company…they have smart meters they can monitor your activity feedback into their line.Hi ya’ll!
I have a strange issue with this inverter! I have installed my solar panels yesterday and I am using two eco-worthy 5000 w in parallel (split phase 2P0 and 2P2) , I wonder what settings work best for running my house on solar power as priority? I did setting [1] for power supply to PV1st because I want to power the house with solar during the day and with batteries at night, but I have noticed that this setting goes to AC bypass at night instead of taking power from the batteries (4x 280 amps connected in series or a total of 14.3 kw), therefore, I changed it to BAT1st so the house will be powered by batteries at night , but the problem with this is that batteries are prioritized over solar during the day too which is bad for the batteries and I would not be using solar to power the house, only to charge batteries in this case! Another problem that I face, wether I set PV1st or BAT1st, is that after a few minutes I loose power in the entire house and inverter 2 shows errors [15] and [39] which don’t make sense to me! The only way I can run power in the house without interruption is if I choose AC1st in setting [1], and that bypasses solar and batteries all together which defeats the purpose of having solar, Did anyone face these issues with this inverter before ? And what is the best solution for a problem free operation prioritizing solar 1st, batteries second and grid third? BTW, I did setting [6] for charging to PV1st to charge the batteries from solar first and then grid if solar fails or insufficient!
*** UPDATE ***
I noticed the problem occurs when the air conditioning unit starts while the inverter setting is on PV1st or BAT1st!
Shouldn’t an inverter total of 10000w (2x5000w split phase in parallel) be able to run my house with the ac?
Note: I have 2 solar arrays (4400w each to each inverter) and 4x280 amps batteries in series.
I have a strange issue with this inverter! I have installed my solar panels yesterday and I am using two eco-worthy 5000 w in parallel (split phase 2P0 and 2P2) , I wonder what settings work best for running my house on solar power as priority? I did setting [1] for power supply to PV1st because I want to power the house with solar during the day and with batteries at night, but I have noticed that this setting goes to AC bypass at night instead of taking power from the batteries (4x 280 amps connected in series or a total of 14.3 kw), therefore, I changed it to BAT1st so the house will be powered by batteries at night , but the problem with this is that batteries are prioritized over solar during the day too which is bad for the batteries and I would not be using solar to power the house, only to charge batteries in this case! Another problem that I face, wether I set PV1st or BAT1st, is that after a few minutes I loose power in the entire house and inverter 2 shows errors [15] and [39] which don’t make sense to me! The only way I can run power in the house without interruption is if I choose AC1st in setting [1], and that bypasses solar and batteries all together which defeats the purpose of having solar, Did anyone face these issues with this inverter before ? And what is the best solution for a problem free operation prioritizing solar 1st, batteries second and grid third? BTW, I did setting [6] for charging to PV1st to charge the batteries from solar first and then grid if solar fails or insufficient!
*** UPDATE ***
I noticed the problem occurs when the air conditioning unit starts while the inverter setting is on PV1st or BAT1st!
Shouldn’t an inverter total of 10000w (2x5000w split phase in parallel) be able to run my house with the ac?
Note: I have 2 solar arrays (4400w each to each inverter) and 4x280 amps batteries in series.
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Lener
New Member
Interestingly I have the same two units , “I am not an expert !! “I can only share my personal experience with these inverters. PV and Battery 1st setting { With high load The inverter will automatically switch to mains if your battery low and insufficient PV input} ,by the way just because you PV reading indicates 300v but the amperage is lower than 2 the inverter will not going to charge your battery nor power high load. ( you will lose power if you don’t have grid input connected )essentially acting like transfers switch to supplemental the load power . I have 3 @48v 100A battery often will last until about 9pm on a good day with charging capacity of 60% I have yet to reach 100%,
See my setting below. .
1 Bt Ist ……….. ( PV 1st = you will lose inverter functionality after dark and insufficient PV input)*********** No inverter power!
2 60hz (default)
3 UPS (default)
4 44.8V
5 52.4v
6 hybrid ( will supplement your charging with grid power as well )******** yes you need grid power input.. and keep your load running without interruption.
7 60
8 LFP16
9 57.6v
10 120min Default
11 56.8v
12 42.0V
13 5s (default)
14 44V (default)
15 40.8V
22 DIS (default)
23 ENA (default)
24 ENA (default)
25 ENA (default)
26 ENA (default)
27 ENA (default)
28 15
30 id1 & id2
31 SIG.
32 SLA
33 WOW
34 TOLOAD******* ( if you have sufficient for charging the extra will go to load as per Eco-worthy) “this is the battery free setting “
35 54.8
36 80
37 52.8
38 120Vac
For my own peace of mind I installed a transfer switch for each of the inverters if something goes wrong with the inverters to mitigating any of possible of power loss.
Again not an expert nor an EE….
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Thanks for sharing your settings.
I wonder why haven’t you used split phase when you connected your inverters in parallel (setting 31)? Yours is SIG, does this have any advantage over using split phase L1 & L2?
Perhaps you've resolved the problem(s) you're having, but I wanted to put some notes here for you. Note I'm a dual ASP 10k user, so there's some slight differences, but I think outside of some parameter naming differences (I grabbed the manual to help) they are very similar.
First, can you clarify what you mean by 280A batteries in series? Do you mean 12V batteries x 4 wired in series? Are they LifePO4? (For the sake of what I'm writing below, I'm going to assume the chemistry is LifePO4). The picture changes a lot though, if it's 4x12V in series vs. 4-280Ah 48V batteries.
For what you're describing here's what I'd suggest, that are similar to my settings:
- Setting 01 BT1ST
- Point 1 - related to your post above, there's no harm in using your batteries and cycling them. LifePO4, given even a 3-4000 cycle lifespan (low end estimate based on what we know currently) would take around around 10 years of daily cycling, and even then, you'd still have usable capacity though some losses (10-20%) are expected over time. My bank is 4, soon to be 5, 48V 280Ah self-built batteries. That's a total of around 71kWh capacity. With 4 of the 5 online, I cycle down to around 40-50% every day. I'm still in the process of building my solar strings, so I don't generate enough to offset my total usage, but I do charge from solar during the day in battery first mode. (On ASPs and others it's referred to as SBU priority, solar/battery/utility).
- Point 2 - electricity can only flow in one direction. So, even in battery first mode, during the day when you're getting solar power it will still be participating in sustaining your usage. If solar power < demand, you'll be consuming the delta between demand and the available solar power from battery. If solar power > demand, it's sustaining your loads and the remainder will be charging your batteries. I understand if that's not the desired behavior for you, so you have to decide how you want the system to behave. I think this would provide more stability for you.
- Settings 08/31/32 (BMS comms): you'll find two camps here on this. I'm a bit biased towards open loop/no comms vs BMS comms. With open loop and voltage based settings, it's very unlikely your inverter will have issues/leave you without power because the BMS did something unintended. Voltage settings are another matter of preference/opinion. I'd encourage you to try open loop if you haven't.
- If you do: setting 09 Boost Voltage (Bulk/Absorb/pick another name): between 55.2-56V
- Setting 10: 60-120 minutes depending on if your BMS has an active balancer. Longer if it's passive.
- Setting 11: Float voltage - personally I'd say 53.6, but anywhere between that and 54-54.2 depending on the state of balance, etc. of your batteries
- Depending on other loads on your inverters, a total of 10K inverting power without a soft start on your AC is pretty iffy. If you go batt first and have enough capacity for the surge, you may be OK. But I'd suggest getting a soft start kit if you want to run your AC. Steady state, my AC pulls around 2800-3200W total. It's not insignificant, and the initial inrush of current depending on the size of your AC unit can be around 80A @ 240V. That translates to a large surge DC amperage. If you have 4x12V batteries in series, you don't have enough battery capacity.
- Setting 34: Honestly, I'd suggest DIS and not TOLOAD, reason being what I said above. BT1ST, remembering power will only flow one way at any given time, you are implicitly mixing solar and battery, utility is there for overload and charging if so desired. And you're not pulling unnecessarily from the grid.
Thank you so much for your input.
The type of batteries are Eco-Worthy 12.8V - 280AH connected in series, photo attached, a total of 51.2V and 14.33KW.
Inverters are 2 Eco-Worthy 5000W connected in parallel and set up as Split Phase 120/240 v. (BTW, setting 34 can be set TOGRID which states in the manual "In the utility bypass state, when no battery is connected, the surplus PV energy is fed back to the grid." I haven't tried it though!)
2 solar arrays producing 4400W each, 1 array/inverter.
I have 2 AC units and I installed a soft starter on each one and I am able to run on solar (BT1ST) day and night, I can see on the inverter display during the day Solar is providing power to load and batteries, and at night, Mains provides power to load and batteries when it doesn't have sufficient power to provide for the load, until the batteries are sufficiently charged then it takes over from the Mains.
The problem is that I get a power shutdown over the whole house 3 - 5 times a day, and one of the inverters shows error 15 (overload), they some times no error code is shown, when power shuts down the display shows a yellow box with "OC" written in it above the battery to the right , which I assume it means "Over Current"!
I would expect that the inverter will switch to mains within 10ms in the case of overload instead of shutting down power to the entire house! And it actually does switch seamlessly most of the time, that's why these 3-5 times power shutdowns are very confusing to me!
Some suggested to get a third inverter, increase the number of batteries or solar panels, but that doesn't make sense because my solar setup works 95% of the time, it is just those annoying 3-5 time power shutdowns!
Here is a table of the list of my settings, please take a look at it and let me know if any of my settings is causing this problem and what do you suggest!
| Setting | Value | Suggested |
| 1 | BT1ST | |
| 3 | UPS | |
| 4 | 47.6 | |
| 5 | 54 | |
| 6 | HYBRID | |
| 7 | MAX: 60 | |
| 8 | LFP15 | |
| 9 | Cu: 53.6 | |
| 10 | Cu: 120 |
| 11 | FC:52.4 | |
| 12 | Od:43.2 | |
| 13 | Od:30 | |
| 14 | Uu:46.4 | |
| 15 | ESC:41.2 | |
| 22 | DIS | |
| 28 | MAX: 40 | |
| 30 | Id: 1 / Id 2 | |
| 31 | 2P0 / 2P2 | |
| 32 | SLA |
| 33 | WOW | |
| 34 | DIS | |
| 35 | 49.6 | |
| 36 | MAX: 80 | |
| 37 | CC: 50.4 |
| 38 | UAC: 120 |
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42OhmsPA
Who likes Electrical Gremlins?
What's the max discharge current of the BMS in your 12V packs you are running in series?
I believe it is 200Ah, attached is the specs
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The house runs for several hours Without power interruption, but suddenly for no known reasons to me I get a power shutdown and one of the inverters shows error 15 which indicates overload, but what I don’t understand is if both inverters are running in parallel and split phase how can only one overloads and not the other? And why it is not switching to mains instead of shutting down?!
Attached are two pictures of the inverters when I had a power shutdown after running almost 18 hours without any problems!
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42OhmsPA
Who likes Electrical Gremlins?
So ~2,500W max output from the batteries. ...
You only have 5000W available per leg, if you exceed that on one it will overload.
Why it doesn't switch to mains, I'm unsure. My theory is a BMS is going into protection because you're exceeding the max current of the BMS.
According to Eco-Worthy and the specs sheet, each battery has a rated capacity of 280AH / 3584 W, which adds up according to calculations (12.8Vx280AH=3584W), so 4 batteries have a total capacity of 14336W if I’m not mistaken!
Even if the battery BMS goes into protection I would still expect the inverter to seamlessly switch to mains power , like it actually does 90% of the time , what’s really confusing to me is why it shuts down power at random times without any significant load increase, at most the house is consuming max 2300 W per leg! Is it maybe because the inverter heats up? But it only shuts down for 5 minutes and then it resumes powering the house for many hours, I don’t know if 5 minutes rest will be enough to cool down the inverters, that’s why I don’t think that is the reason! Plus that doesn’t explain the error 15 that shows on the display of one of the inverters!
Do I need to change any of the settings I listed earlier to resolve this issue?
42OhmsPA
Who likes Electrical Gremlins?
Wh but yes you have that part correct.
280Ah x 51.2V = 14.336KWh.
I just noticed you have setting 8 to LFP15 which only charges to 53.2V. ... 3.325V/ cell ... No where near full.
Change that setting to USER, set bulk/boost charge to 56V or a bit less and float to 54.6V or a bit less. ( @agtcovert covered this in his above post as well).
I'd probably charge each battery with a dedicated charger @14V until the stop taking current, your balance amongst cells is likely really bad since they've not been charged full.
Regardless off all that you're still going to be limited by the 200A discharge current of a single 12V BMS.... In order words build or buy 48V batteries to support your loads.
Thank you very much for your input!
Setting [08 ] only has these 3 choices LFP14/LFP15/LFP16 which are corresponding to Battery Series of 14, 15 and 16, and their default constant charge voltages are 49.6V, 53.2V and 56.8V respectively, which can be adjusted.
I honestly didn’t know which type to choose, so I chose LFP15, but I can adjust the boost charge to 56 and the float charge to 54.6 v and test it.
What about settings 5,4,9,11,12,14,15,35 and 37 I listed earlier, are they correct?
42OhmsPA
Who likes Electrical Gremlins?
Something doesn't make sense, there should be multiple options.
Honestly I'm on mobile and it's a pita to flip back and forth between manuals and the browser. A link below for my current settings, if you're on a PC you can compare manuals and settings for the ASP and HYP (you have the HYP).
https://diysolarforum.com/threads/srne-20kw-parallel-asp-journey.85905/post-1156600
After extensive troubleshooting it turns out that the 60 amps breaker that is feeding the inverters from the main panel was faulty! I changed it with en Eaton CH260 60 amps breaker, and now the outages are down to 1 or 2 times a day for about 5 minutes at a time . I am still trying with the settings to try to eliminate outages all together!
42OhmsPA
Who likes Electrical Gremlins?
Hopefully you can figure them out. I wish I were more familiar with that model and settings. It's essentially an ASP.
Focus on getting the battery cells charged to the voltages mentioned previously and things should be much better off.
Thank you everyone for your advice and valuable information!
Here are my battery settings and I wonder if they are correct to ensure proper operation, charge and discharge
4 (battery to mains) = 48v
5 (mains to battery) = 55.6v
6 (charging mode) = hybrid
7 (maximum charging current) = 60a
8 (battery type) = LFP16
9 (boost voltage)= 58v
11 (float charge voltage) = 57.2v
12 (Over-discharge voltage) = 42v
13 (Over discharge Delay Time) = 30s
14 (Battery under voltage alarm point) = 44v
15 (Battery Discharge Limit Voltage) = 40v
Here are my battery settings and I wonder if they are correct to ensure proper operation, charge and discharge
4 (battery to mains) = 48v
5 (mains to battery) = 55.6v
6 (charging mode) = hybrid
7 (maximum charging current) = 60a
8 (battery type) = LFP16
9 (boost voltage)= 58v
11 (float charge voltage) = 57.2v
12 (Over-discharge voltage) = 42v
13 (Over discharge Delay Time) = 30s
14 (Battery under voltage alarm point) = 44v
15 (Battery Discharge Limit Voltage) = 40v
42OhmsPA
Who likes Electrical Gremlins?
I'd also reduce setting 5. You'll be charging the battery pretty full before switching from grid to battery with your current setting.
I'd increase 12 and 15 too.
You're settings will probably work but they are really aggressive. I'm betting you have frequent cells over voltage.
I actually get a battery under voltage error 2-3 times a day!
I will reduce setting 5 to 54.8v, I left 12 & 15 as the default value, what do you suggest they should be set to?
Are these the only settings you suggest I should adjust?
42OhmsPA
Who likes Electrical Gremlins?
Then you need to produce more power and store more power or use less power.
I'd increase them to ~2.6V/cell and ~2.75V/cell. Still pretty much dead but would give a bit of a buffer. That way you wouldn't need to "jump start" the BMS if it triggers a LVD.
I think so, you can compare them to the settings I've been running in the link above.
I was actually thinking about adding a third 5k inverter of the same kind, and add 2 more batteries 51.2v x 50a connected in parallel to give a total of 100amps and 5120w, and connect these two in parallel with my existing battery bank (which is 4 in series 12.8vX280a that gives a 14336w), the two battery groups should have a total capacity of 5120w+14336w=19,456 W and 51.2 volts, HOPEFULLY, this will eliminate my battery under voltage issues and the occasional power outages!
Please let me know if my solution is gonna work or if you any other suggestions!
Note: I’m not thinking about increasing solar panels, the existing two inverters have 11 panels each at 400w/panel, so the third inverter will not have solar connected to it, I’m not really sure if that will work!
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