EG4 12k AC/DC Mini Split technical setup question

[dcsolar24]

I am not able to power up my system. Both the indoor and the outdoor units don't turn on, no power, no screens, no fans

I've tried all of these solutions but nothing works and eg4 is not responding

• Turned on/off on via the remote
• Disconnected and reconnected power supply
• Tried fan, heat and cool mode. Nothing works
• Sleep function turned off
• Timer is off
• Batteries are in the remote
• No error codes showing because no screens are working

What do you guys think is the problem and how can I fix it?

 

[Plum Crazy Rob]

Double check wiring and for voltage (obviously). Start from the outdoor unit as it provides the power for the indoor. Pictures (of terminal block wiring for sure) would be great, I know you think you have it correct, but perhaps someone can spot a prob..

Are you running AC and DC (Solar) hybrid power?? Since it will run independently on either, something would be very wrong for it to not respond on either...

 

[Rubicon22]

Are the wires connected correctly from the inside unit to the outside unit

 

[dcsolar24]

Double check wiring and for voltage (obviously). Start from the outdoor unit as it provides the power for the indoor. Pictures (of terminal block wiring for sure) would be great, I know you think you have it correct, but perhaps someone can spot a prob..

Are you running AC and DC (Solar) hybrid power?? Since it will run independently on either, something would be very wrong for it to not respond on either...

Only running AC power now, haven't put up the solar panels to test DC power yet.

I've already checked the wiring twice and had an electrician do so too

 

[Plum Crazy Rob]

I can see then why you mention the remote so specifically. Hopefully (?) it's what's dead. May need to contact EG4 first, but there is this manual button on indoor unit....

 

[Plum Crazy Rob]

Also I've noticed over the years I've had mine when power is first applied to the outdoor unit it makes some clicking noises and such as I assume valves and solenoids adjust to initial positions...

 

[PuppyCrack]

Only running AC power now, haven't put up the solar panels to test DC power yet.

I've already checked the wiring twice and had an electrician do so too

What did you find out?

I’m having the same issue. I just tried to power up mine for the first time. 120v going in, 120v going to the circuit board but no power coming out of the circuit board. There are 2 red lights that are lit on the board when the power is on. Also when I engage the disconnect after 20 seconds there is a faint click in the unit. When I pull the disconnect it clicks again.

I’m guessing a bad circuit board. I checked all the connections and everything is connected to the board from what I can tell.

Any suggestions?

 

[chrisski]

I can only recommend posting pictures of the wiring.

What wire size did you hardwire it with? Also, does this have a dedicated breaker?

I just installed an EG4 24k BTU. It powered without issues.

I don’t think there’s much we can help anyone with that you haven’t tried except look at the wiring.

 

[eppich8479]

AC units have to have a disconnect next to the compressor. The cheap ones have a little thing you pullout and flip over to switch off and on. So double check that box and your breaker. I have accidently wired them as a dead short before. So maybe get a cheap volt meter and double check

 

[Plum Crazy Rob]

There are 2 red lights that are lit on the board when the power is on

These 2?? If so that is normal....which suggests you have it wired correctly and isn't working. Hopefully OP might respond with findings from his...note my unit is older pre DIY lineset etc.

 

[PuppyCrack]

That is exactly how mine looks. Thank you for the confirmation.

I have a 24k I’m installing next. I am thinking of not using the pre-charged line sets so I can do a 25’ run with out the excess line and connectors.

 

[Plum Crazy Rob]

14:20ish of video, checking ***DC*** voltage on 1-2-3 Comms wires. That's a 24k, but I don't believe it's any different for the 12k for indoor unit power/comms. Also, don't hit me, but what if L-N is reversed ??

Again, pictures would be great. I'm amazed at things people spot here even when it all "seemed right".

 

[eppich8479]

Are the lines charge or just vacuumed? With new lines you will want a pump. 150$ chinese pump is fine, but you could just buy a flair fitting kit from harbor freight and cut the lines it comes with, because you will probably have to flair new lines anyway.

That is exactly how mine looks. Thank you for the confirmation.

I have a 24k I’m installing next. I am thinking of not using the pre-charged line sets so I can do a 25’ run with out the excess line and connectors.

 

[PuppyCrack]

14:20ish of video, checking ***DC*** voltage on 1-2-3 Comms wires. That's a 24k, but I don't believe it's any different for the 12k for indoor unit power/comms. Also, don't hit me, but what if L-N is reversed ??

Again, pictures would be great. I'm amazed at things people spot here even when it all "seemed right".

The red line in this case is my Neutral. I am using a standard AC whip from the disconnect that I had. The fact that the 2 diodes are illuminated on the circuit board leads me to believe either there is something not connected to the board or the board is bad. There is no power coming from the board.

I may take it apart further this weekend but thought someone might have experienced the same issue and save me some time.

Are the lines charge or just vacuumed? With new lines you will want a pump. 150$ chinese pump is fine, but you could just buy a flair fitting kit from harbor freight and cut the lines it comes with, because you will probably have to flair new lines anyway.

I have all the ac equipment. I used their vacuumed 16 foot line it comes with. Certainly an easy install. Doesn’t seam right not vacuuming the unit down.

 

[PuppyCrack]

14:20ish of video, checking ***DC*** voltage on 1-2-3 Comms wires. That's a 24k, but I don't believe it's any different for the 12k for indoor unit power/comms. Also, don't hit me, but what if L-N is reversed ??

Again, pictures would be great. I'm amazed at things people spot here even when it all "seemed right".

View attachment 298741
The red line in this case is my Neutral. I am using a standard AC whip from the disconnect that I had. The fact that the 2 diodes are illuminated on the circuit board leads me to believe either there is something not connected to the board or the board is bad. There is no power coming from the board.

I may take it apart further this weekend but thought someone might have experienced the same issue and save me some time.

Are the lines charge or just vacuumed? With new lines you will want a pump. 150$ chinese pump is fine, but you could just buy a flair fitting kit from harbor freight and cut the lines it comes with, because you will probably have to flair new lines anyway.

I have all the ac equipment. I used their vacuumed 16 foot line it comes with. Certainly an easy install. Doesn’t seam right not vacuuming the unit down.

 

[chrisski]

Looks like all the wires for to where they are supposed to on the compressor.

Do you have pictures of the inside unit?

If the circuit board is not working, You can pop the top cover off to get a better look. On my 24k, I pulled the screws holding it in and pulled it off. I did this because I dropped a screw during installation.

Now that I took another look. Appears you may have already removed the cover.

 

[Plum Crazy Rob]

The fact that the 2 diodes are illuminated on the circuit board leads me to believe either there is something not connected to the board or the board is bad. There is no power coming from the board.

Assuming "no power coming from the board" = no DC at the 1-2-3 comms terminal block at this point?

Then, that YT video is a great look at how it goes together for further disassembly...I'm assuming that if no loose connections or other obvious stuff is discovered it'd be time to get ahold of EG4?? I think everyone just sends entire units (Indoor, Outdoor, an entire new mini split) not PCBs so PITA to R&R the whole dumb thing...

"Twice in a month" for this similar problem does seem fishy, bad production run or something? Please keep updating us.

 

[PuppyCrack]

Assuming "no power coming from the board" = no DC at the 1-2-3 comms terminal block at this point?

Then, that YT video is a great look at how it goes together for further disassembly...I'm assuming that if no loose connections or other obvious stuff is discovered it'd be time to get ahold of EG4?? I think everyone just sends entire units (Indoor, Outdoor, an entire new mini split) not PCBs so PITA to R&R the whole dumb thing...

"Twice in a month" for this similar problem does seem fishy, bad production run or something? Please keep updating us.

So after sending pictures to Eg4 showing my voltage I none out, 2 solid lights and my insulation they sent me a new unit.

I installed it today, and… the inside head has come on but…

I have an E3 code on the inside unit. The outside unit goes through a series of electrical cycles for 10 seconds about 10 seconds after powering up. Then the compressor never comes on, the head unit cycles and eventually gives an E3 code (communication problems with the exterior unit).

As I’m a bit disappointed at this point I didn’t go chasing wires in the exterior unit. And yes all my wires are properly connected. I just installed a different brand mini split last week.

I’ll chase wires tomorrow.

 

[Plum Crazy Rob]

E3 is actually the ONLY problem I've had with any of my 3 units. One Comms wire pulled off the outdoor unit terminal block over time, I cut the wiring a bit short and it gradually pulled off...(totally user error in my case)

99.9% bet you have something similar going on