EG4 6500 EX Inverter setup issues.

[bones1]

Same inverters and battery setup , starts my old definitely non energy star rated 2.5 ton mini split with no issues. I have the battery cables that came with the Batts as well. My batteries tie to a bus bar individually, then bus bar has 2/0 wire to each inverter, via appropriate ocpd.

So if batteries are not in there rack the 4/0 cable is not needed?. Do you have the 6ga cables that came with the batteries going to the busbar and then through a fuse breaker with 2/0 coming out of the busbar to inverters?. I'm trying to piece together everything I need for two inverters and two batteries. Do you have a picture you could share?. I have two inverters, and two batteries. Would I only need the 4/0 cables if I have 6 batteries in their rack?. Thanks.

 

[LywWyr]

So if batteries are not in there rack the 4/0 cable is not needed?. Do you have the 6ga cables that came with the batteries going to the busbar and then through a fuse breaker with 2/0 coming out of the busbar to inverters?. I'm trying to piece together everything I need for two inverters and two batteries. Do you have a picture you could share?. I have two inverters, and two batteries. Would I only need the 4/0 cables if I have 6 batteries in their rack?. Thanks.

The 4/0 cable requirement is a product of the total potential load. It has nothing to do with the rack itself. If you have 2 - 6500w inverters that's a potential load of 13,000 watts / 48vdc = 271 amps. This is where the 4/0 wire requirement originates. The wire must be large enough to carry the max amps the inverters could ask for.
If both inverters are fed off the same conductor from the battery bank it would need to be 4/0 and have a 400 amp t class fuse. This applies if you have a rack or not.
How are you connecting the batteries together?
Don't "daisy chain " them .

Mine has 4 batteries each individually tied to the busbar with the #6 awg cables that came with the batteries. Each inverter has a 2/0 wire that goes from the busbar neg to the inverter neg.
Each inverter has a 2/0 positive wire that goes from the positive busbar to a 200 amp dc rated circuit breaker, then into the inverter. Since each inverter has its own conductor to the battery bank we size each one to the potential of the inverter it feeds.
The large cables in the photo are the 2/0 positive wires, one goes to each inverter via a breaker.
If there was only one wire each from the bus bar positive and negative feeding both inverters it would need to sized to carry the load of both inverters so 4/0.

 

[Skypower]

So if batteries are not in there rack the 4/0 cable is not needed?. Do you have the 6ga cables that came with the batteries going to the busbar and then through a fuse breaker with 2/0 coming out of the busbar to inverters?. I'm trying to piece together everything I need for two inverters and two batteries. Do you have a picture you could share?. I have two inverters, and two batteries. Would I only need the 4/0 cables if I have 6 batteries in their rack?. Thanks.

With the distance I see in your setup, I’d be going with 4/0 between the rack and the first buss/terminal post . Find an on line and ampacity calculator. Play with cable size, distance and current and get ready for a surprise in voltage loss. Keep in mind, one volt is a TON when it comes to what the inverter sees and tries to do the right thing. A nuisance thing like back to grid early or low voltage shut down can be a problem. 95% of the normal working range of your batteries is inside a 3 volt spread. Fight voltage sag?

 

[bones1]

The 4/0 cable requirement is a product of the total potential load. It has nothing to do with the rack itself. If you have 2 - 6500w inverters that's a potential load of 13,000 watts / 48vdc = 271 amps. This is where the 4/0 wire requirement originates. The wire must be large enough to carry the max amps the inverters could ask for.
If both inverters are fed off the same conductor from the battery bank it would need to be 4/0 and have a 400 amp t class fuse. This applies if you have a rack or not.
How are you connecting the batteries together?
Don't "daisy chain " them .

Mine has 4 batteries each individually tied to the busbar with the #6 awg cables that came with the batteries. Each inverter has a 2/0 wire that goes from the busbar neg to the inverter neg.
Each inverter has a 2/0 positive wire that goes from the positive busbar to a 200 amp dc rated circuit breaker, then into the inverter. Since each inverter has its own conductor to the battery bank we size each one to the potential of the inverter it feeds.
The large cables in the photo are the 2/0 positive wires, one goes to each inverter via a breaker.
If there was only one wire each from the bus bar positive and negative feeding both inverters it would need to sized to carry the load of both inverters so 4/0.

What a great reply, thanks for taking the time to show me how yours is set up. Perfectly explained. I will do as you do and feed the inverters separately using the 2/0 cable and the 200A dc breakers I already have. I see you and Will did not daisy chain the batteries but I have seen a few videos where people did. I don't have a battery rack yet. Thanks for that tip as well.

 

[bones1]

Then I see Skypower's post. He recommends 4/0 even feeding the inverters separately?

 

[LywWyr]

.

Then I see Skypower's post. He recommends 4/0 even feeding the inverters separately?

You need to do voltage drop calculations. The voltage will fall will with increased conductor length, this will increase the amperage. As Skypower said , find an online voltage drop calculator , see what your system requires. The size of the wire is dependent on a few variables

 

[bones1]

I will, thanks.

 

[Sycamore]

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You need to do voltage drop calculations. The voltage will fall will with increased conductor length, this will increase the amperage. As Skypower said , find an online voltage drop calculator , see what your system requires. The size of the wire is dependent on a few variables

I see a -.6v drop under a load on my 5000es when under a 40% load then goes to -.2 when load drops. I'm running 2/0 to it. The main inverter a LV5048 has a 4/0 feeding it and it's voltage doesn't sag load or not. I take my true voltage readings from the LV5048 to compare to the 5000es. BTW the 5000es powers my Mr. Cool 3 ton central Inverter A/C and the highest it draws is 47% (2350 watts) the drops down to 30% (1500 watts) pretty quick till temp is reached . When it reaches temp its 0%. It's 104 outside and the temp is set to 79 degrees with a 2 degree spread.

 

[NewGuyNoob]

It should run no problem! Unless…you left program 28 in default phase (120*)
The screen should read for inverter L2:
28
180
2P2
Failure to do that will have definite problems for all 240volt loads yet 120 v loads would be unaffected. Under size battery lines can also cause problems with high loads. From each inverter to current interrupter 2/0 is what is recommended, however from interrupter/ common buss to battery a 4/0 for a two inverter common set of lines would be optimal(a (2/0 would be passable for 4 feet or less) if you were going to run 4 inverters you would need to double 4/0 and so on. Programming the “Voltronic” family inverters can be difficult or downright infuriating but they are a beast once it’s dialed in. Derate your loads when conditions are getting hot (95* or higher) and provide ventilation. All that difference of efficiency is going hang around as heat.

Kluoco - Did you ever get your AC going? Was this the issue? I am planning to replace my Transformer 12K Growatt with 2x EG4 6500's. I am building a home at the moment and live in a camper. I have a 13,5K BTU ac and a 15K BTU [typical 5th wheel].​

Can I expect Problems with this setup as discussed above? Will two 6500's be sufficent to keep these AC's going? If not, then I need to cancel my order? I had belived these to be sufficient for the inrush of these units.

Thank you!

 

[bones1]

I got my popcorn.

 

[Skypower]

Kluoco - Did you ever get your AC going? Was this the issue? I am planning to replace my Transformer 12K Growatt with 2x EG4 6500's. I am building a home at the moment and live in a camper. I have a 13,5K BTU ac and a 15K BTU [typical 5th wheel].​

Can I expect Problems with this setup as discussed above? Will two 6500's be sufficent to keep these AC's going? If not, then I need to cancel my order? I had belived these to be sufficient for the inrush of these units.

Thank you!

I highly doubt you’ll have a problem even if you started them at exactly the same time. I’m running 23 year old 3 Ton as we speak, no problem. Don’t even think about the coffee maker, microwave and AC at the same time. We can do the dryer and AC, but why push it. All you need to do is turn one more big thing on by mistake and you may be in the dark. Keep your cables big 4/0 and 2/0 after the split/share and don’t have your batteries too far away from the inverters (more than 6’). Got to run further, run parallel 4/0. I’d be thinking at least 15kwh worth of Lifepo4 batteries for your system for those 2 AC units. Remember that your only as good as the weakest link. 99% of the marine name brand disconnects are junk. Stay away from them. 5 years ago they were so bad I only had a 400 amp slow blow and a cable cutter for emergency disconnect on my boat lol. You can use the DIHOOL brand breaker (Amazon) that can serve as disconnect and current limiter(keep it dry!). I’m running two BUSS (Blue sea) 200 amp panel mount with no problems, just remember the stud is brass so don’t over torque.

 

[NewGuyNoob]

I highly doubt you’ll have a problem even if you started them at exactly the same time. I’m running 23 year old 3 Ton as we speak, no problem. Don’t even think about the coffee maker, microwave and AC at the same time. We can do the dryer and AC, but why push it. All you need to do is turn one more big thing on by mistake and you may be in the dark. Keep your cables big 4/0 and 2/0 after the split/share and don’t have your batteries too far away from the inverters (more than 6’). Got to run further, run parallel 4/0. I’d be thinking at least 15kwh worth of Lifepo4 batteries for your system for those 2 AC units. Remember that your only as good as the weakest link. 99% of the marine name brand disconnects are junk. Stay away from them. 5 years ago they were so bad I only had a 400 amp slow blow and a cable cutter for emergency disconnect on my boat lol. You can use the DIHOOL brand breaker (Amazon) that can serve as disconnect and current limiter(keep it dry!). I’m running two BUSS (Blue sea) 200 amp panel mount with no problems, just remember the stud is brass so don’t over torque.

@Skypower Did you need to install a soft start on that AC? I have a thread in the General Discussion area concerning personal experience with these heavy loads. I have yet to have a reply there, Im asuming because not many use the General area or Not many have used the MPP or EGX varity of inverter? sigh

Requesting - Off-Grid Inverter Experience 240V [Split-Phase] LV6548 / EG4 6.5K [6500EX-48]

All, Sorry if this has been discussed, I have been searching for this information and asking questions, but I feel that I am hijacking other threads, so I decided to start my own. If you are aware of where I can find this information please point me to it, be a video or thread. Please don't...

diysolarforum.com

 

[Quattrohead]

Kluoco - Did you ever get your AC going? Was this the issue? I am planning to replace my Transformer 12K Growatt with 2x EG4 6500's. I am building a home at the moment and live in a camper. I have a 13,5K BTU ac and a 15K BTU [typical 5th wheel].​

Can I expect Problems with this setup as discussed above? Will two 6500's be sufficent to keep these AC's going? If not, then I need to cancel my order? I had belived these to be sufficient for the inrush of these units.

Thank you!

Personally I would keep the Growatt 12K for your AC's, it is a simple beast of an inverter with a great sine wave output through those massive transformers.

 

[NewGuyNoob]

Deleted. Duplicated

 

[NewGuyNoob]

Personally I would keep the Growatt 12K for your AC's, it is a simple beast of an inverter with a great sine wave output through those massive transformers.

Thanks as an inverter I agree with you, however so far as the capabilities of the Growatt 12K, AC input/Dry contacts and limited (6.5K) Solar MPP ability, this inverter is severely lacking.

It has the features, don't get me wrong, but it either doesn't work or has failed. This is the reason for buying 2 X EG4's

 

[Skypower]

@Skypower Did you need to install a soft start on that AC? I have a thread in the General Discussion area concerning personal experience with these heavy loads. I have yet to have a reply there, Im asuming because not many use the General area or Not many have used the MPP or EGX varity of inverter? sigh

Requesting - Off-Grid Inverter Experience 240V [Split-Phase] LV6548 / EG4 6.5K [6500EX-48]

All, Sorry if this has been discussed, I have been searching for this information and asking questions, but I feel that I am hijacking other threads, so I decided to start my own. If you are aware of where I can find this information please point me to it, be a video or thread. Please don't...

diysolarforum.com

I put a easy start capacitor type on it ($34) and it didn’t make a bit of difference. Still had a high peak reading. Those soft starts do make a difference but they cost $300? but some can actually increase the current under normal running. I double check the connections and said screw it. I may check the run capacitor but I’m not putting more money into an old dog. Newer AC systems may already have a version of soft start (both home & RV). Inverter type AC definitely do.

 

[EPicTony]

Setup is 2 - EG4 6500 ex inverters
4 - EG4 LiFePower battery’s
I was wanting to run this system in split phase configuration, but I discovered some issues along the way.
First - When making the battery selection in the inverter menu #5 I could not choose the EG4 battery setting because a fault #61 would constantly flash saying comm loss with the battery. All comm cable connections were hooked up per manual. The only way to stop the alarm was to select battery type as user and input my own battery voltage settings. I really don’t care for all the communication cables, can I run without them and allow the inverter to know battery status just by old school voltage??
Second - When placing both inverters to the split phase connection, I identified one as 2P1 and the other as 2P2. After this setting had been made, I shut down both inverters and performed a restart. Upon restart, both inverters turned on, 2P1 only shows the battery icon, 2P2 shows the battery icon, A/C to D/C icon and Power output icon. Since 2P1 only shows battery icon it auto shuts down within about 20 seconds. Also with 2P1, it displays 2P1 in the top left hand corner along with the battery icon in the center. 2P2 doesn’t display its setting on the LCD screen in the top left hand corner. What’s going on? I would like to run these split phase to run my well.
Lastly - if both of these inverters get setup to run in the split phase configuration, can I only run a single string of solar panels
(120v@10 amps) to only one inverter to charge the batteries? Or do I have to balance solar inputs between inverters?
This system is only off grid.

I'm building the same system as you and running split phase for the same reason (well pump). I don't have my inverters yet or the PV panels. This forum is really helping me out. Watching for your solution. Thanks

 

[bones1]

Try this