EG4 6500EX Problem

Check the spots below as well. We'll get this figured out. 👍🏻


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Are the breakers in the same position as they are in this photo? One off and one on? If they are both on and voltage is not being red at the top, but it's being read at the bottom, it could be a bad breaker or the breaker is installed upside down.

I bought a brand new breaker from the Electric Supply store in the town that I live in, and it was bad straight out of the box. It happens.

But it sounds like it was working at one point. So may not be the case.
 
Class T fuse not reading going to breaker, on both side
 

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You said that all 3 areas that @42OhmsPA indicated had voltage, now you don't have voltage on the inverter side of the class T fuse?

Either you don't have good points of contact in your testing or your class T fuses are both blown.
 
Both t class are both blown, on one side of rack only
That's what it looks like but you said you had voltage in the area circled in yellow?
What do mean "on one side of the rack only"?
Hopefully it's only the fuses, the inrush current when you turned things back on could have caused it but we want to be certain before you replace them and try again..
You also said you isolated the inverters and fed them AC power but they wouldn't power on, correct?

Thanks for keeping the mail flowing, I bet it can be a fun job most days and miserable a few times a year...
 

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Fast blow T class did their jobs. Don’t Eg4 batteries have a pre charge built in, is there a procedure or are they flaky in that regard?
 
How did you power on the inverter after the initial start-up?
How did you power on the inverter after the initial start-I have power the batteries up as recommended by signature solar, flip the Nader circuit breaker on ( 2 ) that I purchased from signature solar, then after doing so, did the pre charge that’s recommended for proper start up.
 
That's what it looks like but you said you had voltage in the area circled in yellow?
What do mean "on one side of the rack only"?
Hopefully it's only the fuses, the inrush current when you turned things back on could have caused it but we want to be certain before you replace them and try again..
You also said you isolated the inverters and fed them AC power but they wouldn't power on, correct?

Thanks for keeping the mail flowing, I bet it can be a fun job most days and miserable a few times a year...
Did not fed ac power from the grid. Class t fuse is dead on one side and hot on the other. Tomorrow I will make sure I have a better connection, and retest.
 
Did not fed ac power from the grid. Class t fuse is dead on one side and hot on the other. Tomorrow I will make sure I have a better connection, and retest.
That means the fuse is blown. Do you have replacements? Do you know what model the fuse block is?
These may fit and would deliver quick but I can't guarantee they will fit your fuse block.
Again, we need to ensure the inrush current is what caused them to blow in the first place to rule out a potentially bigger issue.
 
That means the fuse is blown. Do you have replacements? Do you know what model the fuse block is?
These may fit and would deliver quick but I can't guarantee they will fit your fuse block.
Again, we need to ensure the inrush current is what caused them to blow in the first place to rule out a potentially bigger issue.
200-300A T-Class Fuse (1X required for each 6500EX. The amazon listing stats that these T-class fuses are rated for 12V only. They are actually rated for 125VDC if you read the data sheet. By design, they could handle more than that. These are high quality fuses that will handle nearly any size LiFePO4 battery. This is what Will Posted YouTube channel.

Looking at one on Amazon-

Blue Sea Systems 5119 FUSE A3T (CLASS T) 300-AMP​

They do go up to 400-AMP, I need to do more reading to see if it will fit the block. When I have my lay over today I’m going to bypass the fuse to the breaker to see if that was the issue, the fuse blowing. If not the fuse to continue the current from the batteries, if it doesn’t, the breaker is next in line as default.
 
200-300A T-Class Fuse (1X required for each 6500EX. The amazon listing stats that these T-class fuses are rated for 12V only. They are actually rated for 125VDC if you read the data sheet. By design, they could handle more than that. These are high quality fuses that will handle nearly any size LiFePO4 battery. This is what Will Posted YouTube channel.

Looking at one on Amazon-

Blue Sea Systems 5119 FUSE A3T (CLASS T) 300-AMP​

They do go up to 400-AMP, I need to do more reading to see if it will fit the block. When I have my lay over today I’m going to bypass the fuse to the breaker to see if that was the issue, the fuse blowing. If not the fuse to continue the current from the batteries, if it doesn’t, the breaker is next in line as default.
 
If I remember correctly, the 200's and lower are one size, but the 225's and larger (300, 350, 400) are bigger and fit a different fuse holder.
From Blue Sea - 200's and smaller are 1.67" centres, while the 225's up to 400 are 1.84" centre to centre (bolt space).

edit: I agree with 42Ohms PA comment:
we need to ensure the inrush current is what caused them to blow in the first place to rule out a potentially bigger issue.
 
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That means the fuse is blown. Do you have replacements? Do you know what model the fuse block is?
These may fit and would deliver quick but I can't guarantee they will fit your fuse block.
Again, we need to ensure the inrush current is what caused them to blow in the first place to rule out a potentially bigger issue.
Since I don’t have no “class T fuses” on hand this is what I did. I ran from the buss bar directly into the fuse box, on both sides so I could see if I could get current. When I went to the batteries to turn them on, the top one breaker on the battery flipped off, and I could smell smoke. So I turned the battery off and turned on the 2 blow it and the alarm red light comes on, on both of them .

I then turned the breaker box off and turned the batteries back on, all green lights, putting out current. I think the issue is with the breaker within the breaker box.
 

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The problem is with one or both of your inverters not the breaker, the breaker is doing exactly what it is supposed to do.
Disconnect absolutely everything from both inverters except for the battery connections and then try each inverter on its own, make sure you have the displays plugged in so you can see if there is any life.
Also you should probably be using a precharge resistor, a regular 60 or 100 watt domestic light bulb is perfect for this as it will glow maybe half brightness at 48 volts and should slowly dim as the capacitors charge if there is no short circuit in the inverter.
 
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