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EG4 6k - need help with wiring diagram

Its not required, its just much easier to work with due to its flexibility. Its my preferred choice. Although the special crimp lugs with oversized barrel are sometimes more difficult to find.
is stranded preferred for any guage wire? Thought solid was easier
 
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At least 100lb, and more to pick last I checked, but the plants are getting a bit rough looking.

5 miles from Wylie, well not much is around there to the east, but then there's Sachse, Murphy, Parker or Rowlett.

My wife were in that area a couple months ago, stayed at some friends near Murphy. Couldn't believe how much that area's grown since we left in 2014.

I kinda miss it, but the traffic and the heat, nah..
Yeah, traffic is much higher now..I now wish I had a farm :) Have limited space in the garage so have to do some major cleanup to fit all the gear:-(
 
When installing cheap side wire electrical receptacles with 12 or 14AWG wire yes solid wire is easier to loop around under the screw head. In almost all other cases as the wire gets bigger solid becomes difficult to bend. Even the so called stranded building wire still consists of fairly large strands and is difficult to work with especially 3/0 or 4/0. Trust me on this, class K or M welding cable is the way to go for making battery connections.
 
When installing cheap side wire electrical receptacles with 12 or 14AWG wire yes solid wire is easier to loop around under the screw head. In almost all other cases as the wire gets bigger solid becomes difficult to bend. Even the so called stranded building wire still consists of fairly large strands and is difficult to work with especially 3/0 or 4/0. Trust me on this, class K or M welding cable is the way to go for making battery connections.
"The main difference between these welding cables is in their stranding. Since Class M Welding Cable has smaller gauge strands, it is much more flexible. Class M Welding Cable also has a thicker jacket, which makes it more durable and allows it to have a higher ampacity than Class K. The last major difference between these two types of cable is their price. Since Class M Cable requires more copper and more jacketing material, it tends to be more expensive."

So this would work?
 
Looks like someone picked up and installed a couple of these inverters and a rack of batteries, see this thread-

 
Yes, in fact I believe that's the same place I purchased from last time. Remember to get the proper oversized compression lugs for the fine stranded wire. Also its a nice touch to use Red and Black shrink tubing on the connector ends to designate + and -
 
Looks like someone picked up and installed a couple of these inverters and a rack of batteries, see this thread-

yeah, I saw the idle power usage when researching but it still better than 2x6500(140w?) for 240v. I hope I don't have to pay more in electricity charges with the inverter ? .

Solar assistant -- is that an app that comes with the inverter/battery?
 
yeah, I saw the idle power usage when researching but it still better than 2x6500(140w?) for 240v. I hope I don't have to pay more in electricity charges with the inverter ? .

Solar assistant -- is that an app that comes with the inverter/battery?
Yeah, I think Solar Assistant comes with the inverters.

Well, if your inverter is getting enough solar I guess the idle power consumption won't matter as much, but I wonder how much power it actually uses when in inverter mode? Whether it's inverting the battery and/or solar I'm curious as to whether it uses 100W in that mode? The spec sheet says it's supposed to be 93% efficient in battery to AC mode.
 
hmm...ok.
"a wire labeled 2 0 will be thicker than a wire labeled 2 AWG. Also, lower AWG wires typically have higher amps, which is an electrical current's base unit. For example, a 2 0 copper wire will have up to 200 amps while a 2 AWG copper wire will have up to 125 amps."

Would this work?
No it's too thick to fit in the mechanical lugs in your breaker.
Also it's very stiff and hard to cut.
The biggest wire that fits your breaker is 1/0 awg.
That is why I suggested 1/0 awg earlier.
How long is the inverter circuit round trip in feet?
 
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Fine stranded welding cable on the other hand probably should have a ferrule when used with mechancial lugs like the ones on your breaker.
 
pulls about 20A / battery. Looks like there are some controls in place not to pull more than 20A

I was running my deep fryer earlier and the generator died... So my inverter started pulling 42A from my 2x Lifepower4 51.2v batteries for a minute. They definitely don't mind 20A each, that's a reasonable load on them. I doubt they would have an issue, they run whatever load I want all the way down to empty. But I only have a 3KW inverter.

The people who buy them and think they can pull 100A out of each, for any amount of time, all seem to be disappointed. They have some confusing specs is one of the biggest drawbacks but it sounds like you have reasonably calibrated expectations.
 

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I was running my deep fryer earlier and the generator died... So my inverter started pulling 42A from my 2x Lifepower4 51.2v batteries for a minute. They definitely don't mind 20A each, that's a reasonable load on them. I doubt they would have an issue, they run whatever load I want all the way down to empty. But I only have a 3KW inverter.

The people who buy them and think they can pull 100A out of each, for any amount of time, all seem to be disappointed. They have some confusing specs is one of the biggest drawbacks but it sounds like you have reasonably calibrated expectations.
From the spec sheet "MAXIMUM DISCHARGE CURRENT 100A 30A:RECOMMENDED" -- https://signaturesolar.com/content/documents/EG4/1511006-specs.pdf
 
Yeah, I think Solar Assistant comes with the inverters.

Well, if your inverter is getting enough solar I guess the idle power consumption won't matter as much, but I wonder how much power it actually uses when in inverter mode? Whether it's inverting the battery and/or solar I'm curious as to whether it uses 100W in that mode? The spec sheet says it's supposed to be 93% efficient in battery to AC mode.
hey, if we do all the work(including adding some solar), do we get tax credit in 2022? That would be awesome :)
Looks like we can get 30%

"The Act restores the full 30% ITC for solar projects that begin construction at any time prior to 2025, including solar projects that commenced construction before 2022, so long as they are first put into service after 2021."

Is the minimum 3kw solar to get credit?
 
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No it's too thick to fit in the mechanical lugs in your breaker.
Also it's very stiff and hard to cut.
The biggest wire that fits your breaker is 1/0 awg.
That is why I suggested 1/0 awg earlier.
How long is the inverter circuit round trip in feet?
ah..got it..will update to 1/0 awg
From inverter to battery < 5-8 ft (1 way)
 
I was running my deep fryer earlier and the generator died... So my inverter started pulling 42A from my 2x Lifepower4 51.2v batteries for a minute. They definitely don't mind 20A each, that's a reasonable load on them. I doubt they would have an issue, they run whatever load I want all the way down to empty. But I only have a 3KW inverter.

The people who buy them and think they can pull 100A out of each, for any amount of time, all seem to be disappointed. They have some confusing specs is one of the biggest drawbacks but it sounds like you have reasonably calibrated expectations.
Wish I could just run 1 AC unit but may not happen.will see
 
ah..got it..will update to 1/0 awg
From inverter to battery < 5-8 ft (1 way)
16 feet round trip, 148 amp at 48 volts = 0.50% voltage drop for 1/0 awg wire.
We strive for under 3% so 1/0 awg is excellent for this application.
 
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5) The neutral has to originate in the main panel, go to N on AC Input, then the neutral continues through the inverter to N on AC Output which goes to the sub panel.
Maybe a possible correction to this #5 here.

I just did a bunch of testing on this in another thread (https://diysolarforum.com/threads/s...00-120-240v-inverter.46208/page-4#post-595305).

It appears that the EG4 6000 unit uses a center tap neutral, so it does not actually pass the neutral through from the grid. @FilterGuy was the one that requested the tests and offered guidance in getting accurate results.
 
I don't know enough about the 6000 ground/neutral in the various modes. Nobody on here has one that can be checked out, and Signature Solar hasn't answered my questions regarding that.
I know that @Subdood was active in this other thread, but for others that may read this thread in the future, see these posts about the ground/neutral situation:
 
Yeah, I think Solar Assistant comes with the inverters.

Well, if your inverter is getting enough solar I guess the idle power consumption won't matter as much, but I wonder how much power it actually uses when in inverter mode? Whether it's inverting the battery and/or solar I'm curious as to whether it uses 100W in that mode? The spec sheet says it's supposed to be 93% efficient in battery to AC mode.
Solar Assistant (https://solar-assistant.io) is a third-party app that costs about $60. It loads on a Raspberry Pi and connects to the EG4 inverters with micro USB cables. It can pull data down to the second, and is light years ahead of the SolarPower mobile app recommended by EG4. I still need to the SolarPower app to make changes to the inverter settings if I don't want to lay hands on the console, but otherwise, it's got little value.

With the software cost and RPi, you are into Solar Assistant for maybe $125-150, but it just crushes the SolarPower mobile app. Not to mention, local data gathering if you hook it up to Home Assistant, so no cloud access needed.

I am not affiliated in any way with Solar Assistant. I was merely looking for a way to get the data published into Home Assistant (an open source home automation software), and it's speed, graphs, and other details were a surprise bonus.
 
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