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EG4 GridBOSS Deep Dive

Its in the manual on page 40 which can be found here https://eg4electronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/EG4-Grid-BOSS-User-Manual.pdf, only downside I see is anything on the smart port won't get power which would normally be hot water heater or ev charger and maybe HVAC:

View attachment 271059
Slightly fancier ATS. Makes sense if you really want to scale out. Parallel mode with these inverters is sub-optimal. Anything to help clean up that mess is a 'GoodThing'(TM). As these systems get in the field we should get some feedback.
 
Slightly fancier ATS.
Thats pretty much what a MID is, an ATS with multiple inputs, CT's and comms to allow grid interactivity to coordinate with inverters and make sure it's isolated properly in a grid down situation. Nice to see its still UPS grade 10 ms switchover even though the transfer switch is in the Gridboss separate from the inverter vs others where there can be multiple seconds of no power until MID isolates and inverter takes over.
 
Can we put Square D breaker Surge Protector into the Smart Ports in the GridBoss?
You could, but who knows how effective it will be. You want to sink the surge before it gets anywhere else. If the surge makes it to the gridboss, the surge can make it out of the gridboss (and damage the gridboss) before the smart port can sink the surge.
 
Can we put Square D breaker Surge Protector into the Smart Ports in the GridBoss?
To protect the device connected to that smart port, yes but if you are trying to protect your whole house then that would only work if that smart port was turned on.
 
To protect the device connected to that smart port, yes but if you are trying to protect your whole house then that would only work if that smart port was turned on.
Can I use another brand of breaker for the Hybrid slots? Confirmed that my 90a breakers didn’t make it over here.
 
I'm in the process of planning a grid-tied solar system with net metering and would appreciate some advice. Here’s my setup:

Service: 400A

Meter Location: About 200 ft from the house

Generator: 45kW Generac, located near the meter, with two ATS (automatic transfer switches) for two separate 200A lines feeding two 200A breaker panels in the house.

Planned Solar Array: Ground-mounted, 30kW, near the meter/generator.

I’m considering using EG4 Gridboss and EG4 Flexboss inverters for the system. For now, I’m not planning to include batteries, but I might add them in the future.

What would be the ideal way to configure this setup? I know I need multiple inverters but do I also need two GridBoss units as well? Where would they tie in with the Generac and do I get rid of two ATS?

Thanks!
I have a 400 amp service as well and installed 1 Gridboss with 2 flexboss plus batteries and 41kw of panels that are tied into 1 of the 200 amp panels. Even with two inverters, counting the 16kw pv max output for a combined 32kw or 132ish amps I cannot feed both panels all out.

We are all electric and after analyzing the actual usage the 30kw of heat strips are what really made the 400amp appropriate. Without the heat strips we run well within what 2 flexboss inverters can do.

If you just put solar on one panel anything that is pushed upstream gets used by your other panel before crossing the meter. So if you have surplus you use it prior to giving it to the company and if not you net meter.

if you get batteries at some point then you have the ability to shift the loads to you solar battery backed up panel as sensible and you can use the smart ports to control other usage ie water heater, heat pumps/ac etc.

Is it possible to have two Flexboss hard programmed to not export over 12.5kw each? I don’t know the answer.
 
Can I use another brand of breaker for the Hybrid slots? Confirmed that my 90a breakers didn’t make it over here.
I would just use the supplied 70 amp breakers, it is most unlikely you are ever going to trip them.
But yes you could use other breakers in there as long as they are 100% mechanically compatible, there are basically two types of breakers in the USA with slightly different mounting arrangements.... Actually make that three because I have a Leviton panel that is totally different.
 
Actually the breaker must match the bus, for UL listing. Or it won't pass inspection.
 
Can I use another brand of breaker for the Hybrid slots? Confirmed that my 90a breakers didn’t make it over here.
The GridBOSS manual specifically calls out using the breakers supplied by EG4. They're made by ZHEJIANG BSB ELECTRICAL APPLIANCES CO., LTD, so you're unlikely to find them anywhere else. If you use anything else, that'd be grounds for failing an inspection -- assuming anything else fits.
 
In the USA with a sharp-eyed inspector yes, but this install is in the Caribbean.
I don't know if the production boss is using USA or Chinese breakers, but they are physically compatible with the one type of USA breaker.
For example, General Electric, Siemens, Murray, Square D and Eaton can be used in each other's panels and I believe are certified to do so.
Not 100% sure and I'm not a licensed electrician, do your homework.
 
In the USA with a sharp-eyed inspector yes, but this install is in the Caribbean.
I don't know if the production boss is using USA or Chinese breakers, but they are physically compatible with the one type of USA breaker.
For example, General Electric, Siemens, Murray, Square D and Eaton can be used in each other's panels and I believe are certified to do so.
Not 100% sure and I'm not a licensed electrician, do your homework.
Understood. Not sure what BSB is compatible with, but they're definitely Chinese breakers. They look plug-on-neutral, but...<shrug>. Considering the GB specifies an Eaton for the main breaker, it wouldn't surprise me if they were compatible, but not my equipment, not my money possibly going up in smoke.
 
For example, General Electric, Siemens, Murray, Square D and Eaton can be used in each other's panels and I believe are certified to do so.
Some of those will physically fit in others. Some won't fit properly.
None are certified for other manufacturers.
 
Some of those will physically fit in others. Some won't fit properly.
None are certified for other manufacturers.

The first time I looked at the panel in my current house, I couldn't even tell what brand it was, based on the variety of breakers in the damn thing. Ended up replacing nearly half of them, to the correct Siemens, after someone had jammed QO breakers into the thing.
 
The first time I looked at the panel in my current house, I couldn't even tell what brand it was, based on the variety of breakers in the damn thing. Ended up replacing nearly half of them, to the correct Siemens, after someone had jammed QO breakers into the thing.
I see that all of the time.
If it looks kinda the same, people think that it's OK.
And sometimes it works fine for quite a while. But I have had inspectors make me replace them with the correct breaker, even if it was existing and not part of the work I performed. Now I just add it to my bid, and replace them as part of the job.
 
I respectfully disagree with you Tim, panel manufacturers won't necessarily tell you what other breakers are compatible but the breaker manufacturer sure as hell tell you what panels they will fit in.
I confirmed my thinking on Eaton's website directly.
 
I respectfully disagree with you Tim, panel manufacturers won't necessarily tell you what other breakers are compatible but the breaker manufacturer sure as hell tell you what panels they will fit in.
I confirmed my thinking on Eaton's website directly.
What they will fit in and what they are certified, or UL listed for, are two different things. Unless something has changed, that I'm not aware of. I don't know of any that are cross certified in general.
I have seen custom built panels for specific purposes, that may have one manufacturers bus and a different manufacturers breakers. But those are UL listed as a set. With labeling indicating which breaker manufacturer can be used in that specific panel. Every panel that accepts breakers, will have a label that specifies which breakers (brand and type) can be used in that panel.
 
In the USA with a sharp-eyed inspector yes, but this install is in the Caribbean.
I don't know if the production boss is using USA or Chinese breakers, but they are physically compatible with the one type of USA breaker.
For example, General Electric, Siemens, Murray, Square D and Eaton can be used in each other's panels and I believe are certified to do so.
Not 100% sure and I'm not a licensed electrician, do your homework.
It’s not code to mix unless the breaker is crosslisted/registered

Eaton has CL breakers that are designed to go in foreign panels. This is definitely OK and this is their business model. They list which breakers are OK to go in.

Practically every other brand only does this kind of compatibility across all their different sub-brands/panels acquired through buying another company. EG Siemens < -> Murray. You can find pretty handwringing pedantic posts on code forums about the renaming of panels and breakers across company acquisitions 😆

Some smart panels with 1” breaker slots specifically say multiple brands X Y Z are ok to go in
 
The first time I looked at the panel in my current house, I couldn't even tell what brand it was, based on the variety of breakers in the damn thing. Ended up replacing nearly half of them, to the correct Siemens, after someone had jammed QO breakers into the thing.
Yeah, I kind of suspect cross brand full size dumb breakers on classic residential loads are unlikely to burn houses down at this point.

The fancier you get though, the more you’re playing with fire. IE long continuous EV or solar loads, tandems pushing the stab limits and having smaller contacts for the current, AFCI/GFCI/etc breakers that have tons of stuff inside them and potentially shaving material off to make space or save some coin.
 
Yeah, I kind of suspect cross brand full size dumb breakers on classic residential loads are unlikely to burn houses down at this point.

The fancier you get though, the more you’re playing with fire. IE long continuous EV or solar loads, tandems pushing the stab limits and having smaller contacts for the current, AFCI/GFCI/etc breakers that have tons of stuff inside them and potentially shaving material off to make space or save some coin.

In my particular case, the house was built as a modular house, with a SquareD homeline panel. When it was placed on the site, an additional stick built portion was added on, which involved moving the main panel, which was a Siemens panel. I suspect that's a big reason why it happened. It's funny, when I bought the place, the home inspector gripped about not having arc fault breakers (which aren't in the code in Indiana yet) but didn't say a word about the difference in breaker brands.
 

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