EG4 V2 Battery with missing Amp Hours… Does anyone have any idea where the missing amperage is?

[TONYTALE]

@EG4TechSolutionsTeam
@SignatureSolarSupport @SignatureSolarJess

I used to run an EG4 3000 inverter with 3 EG4 100Ah V1-Lifepower batteries with no issues.The inverter ALWAYS read 300Ah as it should! A few months ago I decided to upgrade, so I purchased from Signature Solar a 6000xp-inverter… a “EG4 V2” 100Ah battery along with with battery cables and a Chargeverter…. Once installed I immediately noticed that the 6000xp recognized all four batteries BUT was only displaying between (396-397) Amp-Hours on both the inverter as well as on the EG4 monitoring app.

I figured since each battery was fairly new but purchased a few months apart that I’d wait until they all ran through some cycles together to see if they would balance up to the correct 400Ah… Well 4 months later and it still reading “396Ah” So I removed the communication cable and tested it with the (3) v1-batteries located behind the master V2, and presto it reads 300Ah’s just like it’s supposed to!

Last week I finally called Signture Solar tech support. They said that this is “not” an uncommon occurrence with the new v2-battery. They said it was a communication glitch that would be corrected by simply accessing the EG4 monitor website and going into the settings and changing the Lithium battery setting from “0” which is EG4 batteries to setting number “1” And once the system reboots it will read 400Ah as it should… We’ll since I had them on the phone I hit the tech-support remote switch allowing them to do it for me. They changed the battery setting to number (1) rebooted my system two to three times with no luck.

The technician said he did this several times with other customers and it always seemed to work. He said he has to reach out to EG4 directly, well that was a week ago and I haven’t heard back from him. Does anyone have any idea what exactly is happening here and how to correct it? I’ve included some pictures. Thanks in advance.

 

[Dave911]

396 vs 400?
Why does that make a difference?
That 0.25 percent.

 

[TONYTALE]

396 vs 400?
Why does that make a difference?
That 0.25 percent.

When a consumer pays thousands, ten of thousands, millions or even simply hundreds of their hard earned dollars for a products that advertise as 100 percent effective in its performance they expect to receive exactly what they paid for… No more… no less! If your doctor said “David you’re 96% healthy however your test results indicate that you have 4% cancer” I’m sure you’d be a little curious. An extreme example, I know BUT some people rely on their solar equipment and my opinion more than you’d think. So if you know the answer David; please enlighten me.

 

[Dave911]

These are software generated numbers.
You got what you got...changing a number you see, wont change what you have.
If want to feel really good, a competent software engineer can make it say 600 instead of 396 or 400. But it wont change what you have. If you really want to verify what you have, you need to use external measurement devices. Dont rely on vendor supplied displays/reports to assess system performance.
Im a programmer/engineer.

 

[TONYTALE]

These are software generated numbers.
You got what you got...changing a number you see, wont change what you have.
If want to feel really good, a competent software engineer can make it say 600 instead of 396 or 400. But it wont change what you have. If you really want to verify what you have, you need to use external measurement devices. Dont rely on vendor supplied displays/reports to assess system performance.
Im a programmer/engineer.

 

[robby]

When a consumer pays thousands, ten of thousands, millions or even simply hundreds of their hard earned dollars for a products that advertise as 100 percent effective in its performance they expect to receive exactly what they paid for… No more… no less! If your doctor said “David you’re 96% healthy however your test results indicate that you have 4% cancer” I’m sure you’d be a little curious. An extreme example, I know BUT some people rely on their solar equipment and my opinion more than you’d think. So if you know the answer David; please enlighten me.

Probably just some coding error issue.
Software fixes may make it read 400Ah but the reality is that you will be getting the same thing you are getting now.
I get how you feel but your really going to stress yourself out over nothing.

 

[TONYTALE]

You’re a programmer/engineer? Then answer me this… I have a brand new EG4 v2 battery straight out of the box that was over a thousand dollars which is supposed to be an upgraded more advance version of it’s predecessor the v1 battery of which I purchased three. Nevertheless when I communicate directly with ANY inverter directly with ANY of these older v1 batteries in ANY order the batteries and inverters have no trouble communicating. Yes I said inverters with an “S” have zero problems communicating and registering the CORRECT readings from the v1 batteries. For example: if I connect the three v1 batteries to my 3000 inverter in ANY order the inverter properly reads (300 amp hours). If I connect my 6000xp inverter to the same three v1 batteries again in ANY order the inverter properly reads (300 amp hours). Now when I introduce the v2 battery to the 3000 inverter, communication problems and again when I introduce the v2 battery to the 6000xp communication problems! Now originally I thought that it was “just” communication issues as you seem to be implying, which annoying in itself would not push me over the edge, however if you read my above post you’ll notice that on May 9th 2025 a Signature Solar technician recently gained access to my system via remotely and reset its settings from battery type 0 which is EG4 batteries to number 1. When he did this it caused my system to reboot. Killing power in my entire house for a few minutes. Well when the system came back online the 6000xp read 100 amp hours! It couldn’t see the other 3 batteries. I had to depress the master battery which is the v2 battery bms button two or three times to before the 6000xp finally read 397 amp hours. I didn’t give it much thought at the moment but approximately 5 minutes after the Signture Solar level 1 technician and I terminated our phone call “boom” all the power in my house went out again. I’m 100% sure it was the level one technician taking one more shot at a reboot to get it to read 400 amp hours on his end so I wasn’t upset that he rebooted my system without my permission BUT it took me twenty minutes to get back online to lock out remote access for technicians… Because AGAIN the 6000xp inverter was reading 100 amp hours, only this time I had to depress the bms button several times AND switch off the built in circuit breaker before the inverter would read 397 amps and 4-batteries. This process took me 30 minutes. My friend at this point I’m afraid to shut down my system. Long story short something just isn’t right with the battery “in my opinion While I originally thought like you that it was simply a false reading of 396-397 amp hours that doesn’t explain why it can’t see all the batteries immediately upon reboots, no this battery simply hasn’t preformed correctly since day one and I can’t afford to run faulty equipment during hurricane season.

 

[TONYTALE]

These are software generated numbers.
You got what you got...changing a number you see, wont change what you have.
If want to feel really good, a competent software engineer can make it say 600 instead of 396 or 400. But it wont change what you have. If you really want to verify what you have, you need to use external measurement devices. Dont rely on vendor supplied displays/reports to assess system performance.
Im a programmer/engineer.

You’re a programmer/engineer? Then answer me this… I have a brand new EG4 v2 battery straight out of the box that was over a thousand dollars which is supposed to be an upgraded more advance version of it’s predecessor the v1 battery of which I purchased three. Nevertheless when I communicate directly with ANY inverter directly with ANY of these older v1 batteries in ANY order the batteries and inverters have no trouble communicating. Yes I said inverters with an “S” have zero problems communicating and registering the CORRECT readings from the v1 batteries. For example: if I connect the three v1 batteries to my 3000 inverter in ANY order the inverter properly reads (300 amp hours). If I connect my 6000xp inverter to the same three v1 batteries again in ANY order the inverter properly reads (300 amp hours). Now when I introduce the v2 battery to the 3000 inverter, communication problems and again when I introduce the v2 battery to the 6000xp communication problems! Now originally I thought that it was “just” communication issues as you seem to be implying, which annoying in itself would not push me over the edge, however if you read my above post you’ll notice that on May 9th 2025 a Signature Solar technician recently gained access to my system via remotely and reset its settings from battery type 0 which is EG4 batteries to number 1. When he did this it caused my system to reboot. Killing power in my entire house for a few minutes. Well when the system came back online the 6000xp read 100 amp hours! It couldn’t see the other 3 batteries. I had to depress the master battery which is the v2 battery bms button two or three times to before the 6000xp finally read 397 amp hours. I didn’t give it much thought at the moment but approximately 5 minutes after the Signture Solar level 1 technician and I terminated our phone call “boom” all the power in my house went out again. I’m 100% sure it was the level one technician taking one more shot at a reboot to get it to read 400 amp hours on his end so I wasn’t upset that he rebooted my system without my permission BUT it took me twenty minutes to get back online to lock out remote access for technicians… Because AGAIN the 6000xp inverter was reading 100 amp hours, only this time I had to depress the bms button several times AND switch off the built in circuit breaker before the inverter would read 397 amps and 4-batteries. This process took me 30 minutes. My friend at this point I’m afraid to shut down my system. Long story short something just isn’t right with the battery “in my opinion While I originally thought like you that it was simply a false reading of 396-397 amp hours that doesn’t explain why it can’t see all the batteries immediately upon reboots, no this battery simply hasn’t preformed correctly since day one and I can’t afford to run faulty equipment during hurricane season.

 

[TM48]

Have you interrogated the battery to see how balanced it is? I assume it's installed correctly with the V2 as battery #1 and the correct software installed on all.

 

[TONYTALE]

Yes I have. In fact not sure if it’s even worth mentioning; I top balanced all four batteries to 100% approximately 2 weeks ago and I have been monitoring them all closely as they charge and 3 out of 4 batteries always stay approximately 4-5% of each other ie: 55% soc 57% soc and 60% soc… where’s if one battery consistently falls 15-20% behind ie: 30% soc… If you guessed the V2 was the battery the battery always lagging behind, you’re guess would be correct! I’m not looking for plug and play and I’m certainly not looking to knock the v2 battery but I myself and those who‘ve utilized my recommendations deserve better than suffering through with a less then perfectly reliable solar system “via any components I use or recommend”

 

[TM48]

It doesn't sound like any of your batteries are balanced. The software is available on the website to display all cell voltages.

 

[LakeHouse]

This seems like an awful lot of concern over what amounts to a 1% inaccurate fuel gauge.
You mentioned that you 'rely on your solar equipment'... And that you 'can’t afford to run faulty equipment during hurricane season.'.
We all rely on our solar equipment. And you haven't really demonstrated that anything should be expected to not work. Is the 396Ah display accurate? Maybe not, but why do you care so much?
If the difference between between be able to 'rely' on your system and not is 1% of capacity, someone has done a very poor job of specifying what should go into your system.

On the other hand, if your argument is that since you found this one software glitch that displays a wrong number, that must mean your system is poorly designed and constantly on the edge of failing... Well, the best I can offer is that everyone here that runs software has found something that's imperfect, and yet most of us have really reliable systems that just keep on working despite imperfect communication.

In my case, my inverter can't talk to any other parts of my system, and my JK BMS is bad at estimating the SoC of the battery. But my inverter just goes on running as long as the voltage is adequate, and my SCC keeps on charging as long as the voltage is low enough that the battery isn't full.
My point is that despite the fact that they're bad communicators, my inverter is good at it's job --> changing DC into AC. And my BMS is good at its job --> protecting the cells from damage.

 

[TONYTALE]

It doesn't sound like any of your batteries are balanced. The software is available on the website to display all cell voltages.

I can monitor the cell voltage using bms tools.

 

[TONYTALE]

This seems like an awful lot of concern over what amounts to a 1% inaccurate fuel gauge.
You mentioned that you 'rely on your solar equipment'... And that you 'can’t afford to run faulty equipment during hurricane season.'.
We all rely on our solar equipment. And you haven't really demonstrated that anything should be expected to not work. Is the 396Ah display accurate? Maybe not, but why do you care so much?
If the difference between between be able to 'rely' on your system and not is 1% of capacity, someone has done a very poor job of specifying what should go into your system.

On the other hand, if your argument is that since you found this one software glitch that displays a wrong number, that must mean your system is poorly designed and constantly on the edge of failing... Well, the best I can offer is that everyone here that runs software has found something that's imperfect, and yet most of us have really reliable systems that just keep on working despite imperfect communication.

In my case, my inverter can't talk to any other parts of my system, and my JK BMS is bad at estimating the SoC of the battery. But my inverter just goes on running as long as the voltage is adequate, and my SCC keeps on charging as long as the voltage is low enough that the battery isn't full.
My point is that despite the fact that they're bad communicators, my inverter is good at it's job --> changing DC into AC. And my BMS is good at its job --> protecting the cells from damage.

Apparently, you’re not reading the thread. There’s a possibility that the v2 could get stuck on 100 amp hour reading. I got lucky twice and depressed the bms many times before it was actually able to read 4 batteries. It shouldn’t take several reboots and 30 minutes for the battery to recognize the entire system. Should it?

 

[LakeHouse]

Apparently, you’re not reading the thread. There’s a possibility that the v2 could get stuck on 100 amp hour reading. I got lucky twice and depressed the bms many times before it was actually able to read 4 batteries. It shouldn’t take several reboots and 30 minutes for the battery to recognize the entire system. Should it?

I did read the thread, thanks.
I'll be more blunt: Communication issues between the battery and the inverter aren't the same as operational issues. As far as what we can tell from what you've told us, your system is working fine. Is the battery charging and discharging? If so, it's working. Its job is to store energy and release it back to the inverter when needed. Communication is a secondary function at best.

Again: If battery communication issues cause you this mush stress, unplug the comms cables between the inverter and the batteries. It might surprise you to find that, if properly configured, your system still works.

 

[TONYTALE]

I did read the thread, thanks.
I'll be more blunt: Communication issues between the battery and the inverter aren't the same as operational issues. As far as what we can tell from what you've told us, your system is working fine. Is the battery charging and discharging? If so, it's working. Its job is to store energy and release it back to the inverter when needed. Communication is a secondary function at best.

Again: If battery communication issues cause you this mush stress, unplug the comms cables between the inverter and the batteries. It might surprise you to find that, if properly configured, your system still works.

 

[TONYTALE]

Sorry for being uneducated as I truly want to learn. If for some reason the 6000xp can only detect 100 amp hours believing that it is connected to only one battery my logic tells me that this won’t allow my the entire system to run at it’s full capacity. The inverter will run incorrectly and inefficiently. There will definitely be limitations. I may be a dumb country bumpkin but I’d rather not have communication or any other issues.

 

[LakeHouse]

If for some reason the 6000xp can only detect 100 amp hours believing that it is connected to only one battery my logic tells me that this won’t allow my the entire system to run at it’s full capacity.

Yeah, this is a fair question. It shouldn't limit anything on the inverter, except maybe how much current it will charge the battery bank with. I saw a post the other day (with mixed-manufacturer batteries) where the inverter was getting info from the battery that didn't make sense (think along the lines of: the inverter is sending 3000W, but the battery is reporting only receiving 1500W), and so the inverter was limiting charge current.
In that case, the solution was just to unplug the comms and go to open-loop. If you can get your closed-loop communications working, great! But if not, just go to open loop.
There seems to be a bit of a misconception that inverters and batteries have to have digital communications to interact properly, but in most cases they just don't. In most systems the inverter/charger can get all the information that it needs about the battery just from the DC system voltage. In simple terms:
Voltage < 55.2V --> Charge the battery, it's less than 100% full. Once it gets to 55.2, hold it there for X (usually around 60) minutes to absorb, then stop charging and let the voltage drop to float voltage (usually about 54V).
Voltage < 48V --> Stop discharging the battery, it's nearly empty. Don't start discharging again until the voltage increases above some set voltage (say, 51V).

It doesn't really need to be much more complicated that this. Grid-tied systems can be more complicated, but they don't have to be.

 

[Koyaanisqatsi]

Is the battery charging and discharging? If so, it's working.

Not true. Everything on the battery should be working 100% or it's defective.

396 vs 400?
Why does that make a difference?
That 0.25 percent.

Because he paid for 100Ah, not 96Ah. Until someone determines this problem is purely a display issue, it's a real problem. And even so, a display issue is still a malfunction and thus defective.

These are software generated numbers.
You got what you got...changing a number you see, wont change what you have.
If want to feel really good, a competent software engineer can make it say 600 instead of 396 or 400. But it wont change what you have. If you really want to verify what you have, you need to use external measurement devices. Dont rely on vendor supplied displays/reports to assess system performance.
Im a programmer/engineer.

So, as a programmer/engineer, you think it's OK for a product to be lacking in its essential capabilities? I'm a programmer/engineer too, and I completely disagree with you.

This seems like an awful lot of concern over what amounts to a 1% inaccurate fuel gauge.

To you maybe. Not to a vast many of us. I'd be pissed too if my brand new multi-thousand dollar equipment was reading incorrectly, even if it is just a display issue.

Is the 396Ah display accurate? Maybe not, but why do you care so much?

Because it's not 400Ah, as it should be, and all indications show perfect battery health.

If the difference between between be able to 'rely' on your system and not is 1% of capacity, someone has done a very poor job of specifying what should go into your system.

On the other hand, if your argument is that since you found this one software glitch that displays a wrong number, that must mean your system is poorly designed and constantly on the edge of failing...

I didn't see this was stated or implied anywhere in the thread. But definitely saw that the OP can't fully trust the system if it's not even capable of displaying accurately when relatively new.

In my case, my inverter can't talk to any other parts of my system, and my JK BMS is bad at estimating the SoC of the battery. But my inverter just goes on running as long as the voltage is adequate, and my SCC keeps on charging as long as the voltage is low enough that the battery isn't full.
My point is that despite the fact that they're bad communicators, my inverter is good at it's job --> changing DC into AC. And my BMS is good at its job --> protecting the cells from damage.

This doesn't help fix the problem the OP is having.

@TONYTALE
1. What voltage are you charging the batteries to? I know this might not be readily available since you are using closed-loop comms. But see what your logs/history show.
2. Are you seeing any alerts about cell OVP or full charge?
3. Can you explain the process you went through to top balance the batteries, as you mentioned above? Top balancing requires disassembling the batteries, which could void your warranty. Just want to know how you went about it to be sure you got a good top balance.
4. Do you happen to have a current shunt on the main negative that can give you a comparison to the BMS SOC? If not, it might be worth the $$ for a Victron SmartShunt, if only to diagnose this issue. But it will be useful in the future as well, I can guarantee.

Try disconnecting the closed-loop comms, and configuring for voltage-based battery management in your inverters and charge controllers. Then let it drain to the lowest safe voltage and see if you are getting close to 400Ah between fully charged and fully discharged. A brand new battery should give it's plate rating plus a few % to cover degradation over time.

 

[TONYTALE]

Yeah, this is a fair question. It shouldn't limit anything on the inverter, except maybe how much current it will charge the battery bank with. I saw a post the other day (with mixed-manufacturer batteries) where the inverter was getting info from the battery that didn't make sense (think along the lines of: the inverter is sending 3000W, but the battery is reporting only receiving 1500W), and so the inverter was limiting charge current.
In that case, the solution was just to unplug the comms and go to open-loop. If you can get your closed-loop communications working, great! But if not, just go to open loop.
There seems to be a bit of a misconception that inverters and batteries have to have digital communications to interact properly, but in most cases they just don't. In most systems the inverter/charger can get all the information that it needs about the battery just from the DC system voltage. In simple terms:
Voltage < 55.2V --> Charge the battery, it's less than 100% full. Once it gets to 55.2, hold it there for X (usually around 60) minutes to absorb, then stop charging and let the voltage drop to float voltage (usually about 54V).
Voltage < 48V --> Stop discharging the battery, it's nearly empty. Don't start discharging again until the voltage increases above some set voltage (say, 51V).

It doesn't really need to be much more complicated that this. Grid-tied systems can be more complicated, but they don't have to be.

There’s no misconception that inverters and batteries have to communicate with one another. I like MANY made a “continuous”choice to purchase a product from a reputable company, based solely on the fact that they took pride and ensured the public that among all of the batteries and inverters on the market theirs was considered BEST at being able to properly communicate with each other.

That’s the reason why I and others actually paid EXTRA money to a reputable company like Signature Solar was to have reliable communication between their inverters and batteries.

I could have bought several ECHO-WORTHY Batteries and a cheap Grow-watt inverter but instead I opted to pay “thousands” more to Signture Solar for peace of mind knowing that I’d be receiving a system that it marked as having the ability to communicate properly, then when I receive it and it doesn’t, you’re telling me I just have to bite the bullet? I’m sorry, but I disagree.

 

[TONYTALE]

Not true. Everything on the battery should be working 100% or it's defective.


Because he paid for 100Ah, not 96Ah. Until someone determines this problem is purely a display issue, it's a real problem. And even so, a display issue is still a malfunction and thus defective.


So, as a programmer/engineer, you think it's OK for a product to be lacking in its essential capabilities? I'm a programmer/engineer too, and I completely disagree with you.


To you maybe. Not to a vast many of us. I'd be pissed too if my brand new multi-thousand dollar equipment was reading incorrectly, even if it is just a display issue.


Because it's not 400Ah, as it should be, and all indications show perfect battery health.


I didn't see this was stated or implied anywhere in the thread. But definitely saw that the OP can't fully trust the system if it's not even capable of displaying accurately when relatively new.


This doesn't help fix the problem the OP is having.

@TONYTALE
1. What voltage are you charging the batteries to? I know this might not be readily available since you are using closed-loop comms. But see what your logs/history show.
2. Are you seeing any alerts about cell OVP or full charge?
3. Can you explain the process you went through to top balance the batteries, as you mentioned above? Top balancing requires disassembling the batteries, which could void your warranty. Just want to know how you went about it to be sure you got a good top balance.
4. Do you happen to have a current shunt on the main negative that can give you a comparison to the BMS SOC? If not, it might be worth the $$ for a Victron SmartShunt, if only to diagnose this issue. But it will be useful in the future as well, I can guarantee.

Try disconnecting the closed-loop comms, and configuring for voltage-based battery management in your inverters and charge controllers. Then let it drain to the lowest safe voltage and see if you are getting close to 400Ah between fully charged and fully discharged. A brand new battery should give it's plate rating plus a few % to cover degradation over time.

A level 2 technician from Signature Solar sent me these directions on how to top-balance and I followed his exact instructions.

 

[LakeHouse]

Everything on the battery should be working 100% or it's defective.

Well, I'll happily take this defective equipment off OP's hands for a steep discount on the original purchase price. If you happen to have any other defective equipment lying around that stores or makes power perfectly well, I might be willing to make you an offer too.

Try disconnecting the closed-loop comms, and configuring for voltage-based battery management in your inverters and charge controllers.

It's almost like you're saying the system should work fine even without the comms.

But definitely saw that the OP can't fully trust the system if it's not even capable of displaying accurately when relatively new.

This is ridiculous. It's exactly the objection I was pre-emptively talking about. Taking a minor communication error as indicative of some imminent system failure is just silly.

This doesn't help fix the problem the OP is having.

Here's a place where we agree. I strongly suspect only EG4 and/or some software change can 'fix' this 'problem'. My central thesis has been: OP needn't bother spending his valuable hours trying to fix this because... It really doesn't require fixing.
But hey, it's his system, not mine. He can spend his time as he chooses.

 

[LakeHouse]

I opted to pay “thousands” more to Signture Solar for peace of mind knowing that I’d be receiving a system that it marked as having the ability to communicate properly, then when I receive it and it doesn’t, you’re telling me I just have to bite the bullet?

No, of course not. Feel free to return your expensive equipment if you're not happy with it.
All I'm actually trying to do is help you operate a solar power system, or maybe assuage your doubts that it'll work when you need it to, given the issue that you've presented to us. But no worries, I'll take up no more of your time.

I sincerely hope you find a solution that satisfies you.

 

[TM48]

I can monitor the cell voltage using bms tools.

So what does it tell you? How many millivolts difference do you see between the 64 cells? You will see different values depending on the status of charging and balancing. In the evening with no solar input it should be the closest.

 

[Dave911]

You’re a programmer/engineer? Then answer me this… I have a brand new EG4 v2 battery straight out of the box that was over a thousand dollars which is supposed to be an upgraded more advance version of it’s predecessor the v1 battery of which I purchased three. Nevertheless when I communicate directly with ANY inverter directly with ANY of these older v1 batteries in ANY order the batteries and inverters have no trouble communicating. Yes I said inverters with an “S” have zero problems communicating and registering the CORRECT readings from the v1 batteries. For example: if I connect the three v1 batteries to my 3000 inverter in ANY order the inverter properly reads (300 amp hours). If I connect my 6000xp inverter to the same three v1 batteries again in ANY order the inverter properly reads (300 amp hours). Now when I introduce the v2 battery to the 3000 inverter, communication problems and again when I introduce the v2 battery to the 6000xp communication problems! Now originally I thought that it was “just” communication issues as you seem to be implying, which annoying in itself would not push me over the edge, however if you read my above post you’ll notice that on May 9th 2025 a Signature Solar technician recently gained access to my system via remotely and reset its settings from battery type 0 which is EG4 batteries to number 1. When he did this it caused my system to reboot. Killing power in my entire house for a few minutes. Well when the system came back online the 6000xp read 100 amp hours! It couldn’t see the other 3 batteries. I had to depress the master battery which is the v2 battery bms button two or three times to before the 6000xp finally read 397 amp hours. I didn’t give it much thought at the moment but approximately 5 minutes after the Signture Solar level 1 technician and I terminated our phone call “boom” all the power in my house went out again. I’m 100% sure it was the level one technician taking one more shot at a reboot to get it to read 400 amp hours on his end so I wasn’t upset that he rebooted my system without my permission BUT it took me twenty minutes to get back online to lock out remote access for technicians… Because AGAIN the 6000xp inverter was reading 100 amp hours, only this time I had to depress the bms button several times AND switch off the built in circuit breaker before the inverter would read 397 amps and 4-batteries. This process took me 30 minutes. My friend at this point I’m afraid to shut down my system. Long story short something just isn’t right with the battery “in my opinion While I originally thought like you that it was simply a false reading of 396-397 amp hours that doesn’t explain why it can’t see all the batteries immediately upon reboots, no this battery simply hasn’t preformed correctly since day one and I can’t afford to run faulty equipment during hurricane season.

Ok...
So I didnt fully understand the issue. Thanks for explaining.

1. Why did SS change the battery type from 0 to 1?
2. Im not clear on all of the differences between V1 and V2, but I thought there are/were issues were with the V1 BMS, is that accurate?

So the 100/200/300/400 is the inverter recognizing the digitally connected batteries that have a nominal capacity of 100ah each.
If it only recognizes the V2 battery and says it has 100 ah connected, I would say thats a problem that is related to software bugs in the inverter, battery/s or both.
If you go through some gyrations and get 396 ah, you still have a problem.

Ss/EG4 or more likely, the OEM/s (the actual manufacturers) need to fix these issues.

I wouldn't be satisfied until these bugs were fixed.

Its possible that if your V1 batteries were upgraded to V2, these problems might go away.

If the V1 BMSs do indeed have issues, shouldnt they be upgraded anyway?

Sorry for my previous misunderstanding.