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Electrical in Sprinter

Ldb7

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Apr 3, 2020
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Hello,
Im in the process of wiring my van for simple conversion. Ive removed all ceiling and wall panels and running wire for future needs. Just want to be sure Im doing everything correct before I close everything back up.

My goal is to have electrical for ham radio (50 watts max power) and CB radio (4watts) I’ve ran 12 ga wire, one for each (about 10-12’ run); Maxxair 4500K ceiling vent/fan - power draw 5 amps - ran 14 ga wire (6-8’ run); (4) dimmer ceiling lights (3 watts each max) can I run speaker wire for these?; (2) usb receptacle for charging phone/ipad; (1) 115v dual receptacle for various small appliances (as system allows or while connected to shore power).

I‘ve got MPP Solar 1012 inverter/charger; (2) agm 100ah batteries to be wired in series); 1) 200 +/- watt solar panel (have not purchased yet); 115v shore power plug; 12v fuse panel; misc parts.

Questions:
1) The MPP Solar 1012 does not show a DC out terminal for powering my dc 12v needs. Do I run separate wiring from batteries directly to a 12v fuse panel that will power my dc needs and completely bypass the inverter/charge controller?

2) What is the best way to ground my batteries? What size wire? I also got a 2 battery selector perko switch, but I dont think I need it?

3) Can I run wiring from my vehicle battery to charge my house batteries while the vehicle is running? or do I need to go to the alternator? or better to avoid using vehicle charging system? What do I need to install, if I can use vehicle system?

4) I plan to mount 1 solar panel across the rear roof area of the van. Is 200 watts sufficient? Overkill? Any suggestions for a panel? I have to stay at or under 26”x58ish”. Size of wire needed? The panel wire I got seems pretty big BougeRV 10ft 10 AWG.

Thank you in advance for any assistance!!!

Linda
 
My goal is to have electrical for ham radio (50 watts max power) and CB radio (4watts) I’ve ran 12 ga wire, one for each (about 10-12’ run);
One thing to consider, especially with regards to the inverter and iirc maybe the solar charge controller (i guess this is one in the same in your situation) is noise/interference that would affect the ham radio. I've heard that these components, particularly cheaper and high frequency components can be pretty noisy for ham radio folks. This is an area that is well over my head, but there are a few threads on here where it is discussed in more detail by more knowledgeable folks if you search.
Questions:

1) The MPP Solar 1012 does not show a DC out terminal for powering my dc 12v needs. Do I run separate wiring from batteries directly to a 12v fuse panel that will power my dc needs and completely bypass the inverter/charge controller?
Yes, you've got it right, powering DC loads through a fuse block connected to the batteries/main busbars would be the usual way to do it. Your battery bank is 12V, no reason for the MPP to be involved (its roles are inverter+charger+scc) since nothing needs converting.
2) What is the best way to ground my batteries? What size wire? I also got a 2 battery selector perko switch, but I dont think I need it?
Not a one size fits all question, its context/design specific. Generally speaking you want a connection between the negative side of your system, at one place, and only one place. Shorepower complicates this somewhat, and your specific inverter is a variable that needs to be considered also. Its a somewhat complicated topic that a lot of people (including myself) don't fully comprehend, so be careful taking any oversimplified advice from forum members, if you aren't sure its right, or you aren't sure its right for your specific design/components. One thing to look into is whether your inverter is UL458 listed, or UL 458 compiant this is the standard for inverters in mobile systems. If it is, this means the inverter will handle some of the complexity of shorepower vs non-shorepower for you.

There are a few good resources in the resources section of this website on grounding, and the wiring unlimited book by victron has a bit of coverage as well. You also definitely want to read your inverter manual, and see what specific guidance they give on grounding.

If after research you are not confident in your understanding/ability to correctly design the grounding system, it would not be a bad idea to pay a professional to either do the installation, or just to review/consult on the design and check again after install.
 
Thx Dzl! Wil Prouse had a video on a similar all-in-one. He showed hooking AC inlet connected to simple 2 prong extension cord 14 or 12 ga. for shore power. I was trying to keep it fairly simple, but clean install with shore power plug installed through van side wall. I will most likely go bigger gauge for safety reasons. If you know someone I can remotely talk with and share diagrams, Id be happy to pay them.
 
Thx Dzl! Wil Prouse had a video on a similar all-in-one. He showed hooking AC inlet connected to simple 2 prong extension cord 14 or 12 ga. for shore power. I was trying to keep it fairly simple, but clean install with shore power plug installed through van side wall.
Simple is good, I like simple, especially when it comes to shorepower. But bear in mind, that for the purpose of beginner friendly demonstration and simplicity, (and maybe liability), Will almost never touches on grounding in the videos I've seen. That doesn't mean what that video shows won't work for you, it just means that (in my eyes) you should take it as a simplified starting point/example, which you then adapt to your specific situation and needs.

I don't see a reason why that approach (essentially just a heavy duty extension cord, wired to the MPP) would not be workable in your situation, I had a van that was wired similarly. But I'm certainly not well versed enough in grounding to hold any definitive opinions. And there are still vehicle specific grounding and bonding considerations that would need to be taken into account. First and foremost finding out how your inverter handles neutral-ground bonding/switching. What specific model inverter do you have (looks like there are a couple different models of MPP 1012)?
 
There’s a several-part series of articles from filterguy I think in the stickies.
Single point ’grounding’ for 12VDC is fairly straightforward and not usually confusing but with 120VAC there’s a lot to consider so that 60VAC or even 120VAC is not introduced to the DC neg(-) aka chassis/body of the van. Some models/brands of inverter/chargers handle this, some do not. That’s the first thing to discover and verify with a meter. Past threads (I wish I could find one this moment) cover this with posts by filterguy and others.
Can I run wiring from my vehicle battery to charge my house batteries while the vehicle is running? or do I need to go to the alternator? or better to avoid using vehicle charging system? What do I need to install, if I can use vehicle system?
You can charge your house batteries with the vehicle. But you say you plan to run them in series which makes them 24V. You’ll need a 12V>24V DC charger to do that. But everything you describe seems to be 12V; the batteries in parallel could be charged with the vehicle through an automatic isolator. But with those being agm an automatic DC2DC charger that only connects with the motor running is the ‘best’ solution.
can I run speaker wire for these?
I’d avoid that.
One could argue that “you’ll be fine” but speaker wire is usually lower-rated sheathing, sometimes 75*C, whereas 12V marine and good ‘automotive’ wire is 105*C. I tend to like duplex sheathed cable and the marine stuff is often not much more costly on the grand scale of things.
 
There’s a several-part series of articles from filterguy I think in the stickies.
Single point ’grounding’ for 12VDC is fairly straightforward and not usually confusing but with 120VAC there’s a lot to consider so that 60VAC or even 120VAC is not introduced to the DC neg(-) aka chassis/body of the van. Some models/brands of inverter/chargers handle this, some do not. That’s the first thing to discover and verify with a meter. Past threads (I wish I could find one this moment) cover this with posts by filterguy and others.

You can charge your house batteries with the vehicle. But you say you plan to run them in series which makes them 24V. You’ll need a 12V>24V DC charger to do that. But everything you describe seems to be 12V; the batteries in parallel could be charged with the vehicle through an automatic isolator. But with those being agm an automatic DC2DC charger that only connects with the motor running is the ‘best’ solution.

I’d avoid that.
One could argue that “you’ll be fine” but speaker wire is usually lower-rated sheathing, sometimes 75*C, whereas 12V marine and good ‘automotive’ wire is 105*C. I tend to like duplex sheathed cable and the marine stuff is often not much more costly on the grand scale of things.
I’m sorry, Im going to keep everything 12v. So parallel wiring is what I will do. For some reason, I can’t seem to remember which is which. Where can I find this automatic isolator? Will it prevent my vehicle battery from being discharged (one-way)? Are you saying, run wire from vehicle battery to another small dc charger and then to the house battery bank? If so, what size?

Sounds like I should get someone to look over the grounding, just to be safe? Maybe an rv repair place?
Thx 12V
 
Simple is good, I like simple, especially when it comes to shorepower. But bear in mind, that for the purpose of beginner friendly demonstration and simplicity, (and maybe liability), Will almost never touches on grounding in the videos I've seen. That doesn't mean what that video shows won't work for you, it just means that (in my eyes) you should take it as a simplified starting point/example, which you then adapt to your specific situation and needs.

I don't see a reason why that approach (essentially just a heavy duty extension cord, wired to the MPP) would not be workable in your situation, I had a van that was wired similarly. But I'm certainly not well versed enough in grounding to hold any definitive opinions. And there are still vehicle specific grounding and bonding considerations that would need to be taken into account. First and foremost finding out how your inverter handles neutral-ground bonding/switching. What specific model inverter do you have (looks like there are a couple different models of MPP 1012)?
 

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