Electrodacus-based System Schematic (final version w detail)

[seven7]

It's a work-in-progress and likely will never be complete, but I've created a "SBMS0 missing manual": https://github.com/bdlow/sbms0

Specifically, the EXTIO functions are covered and may help. It's a public git repo, so contributions (pull requests) are welcome.

I skimmed through your document and I loved it. Wish it had been around when my install was in progress. I bugged poor Dacian with rookie questions.

I wondered if you would consider presenting a section with solutions to problems? In my case I have to wire the inverter on/off switch using a reverse logic switch. Once I receive the parts, and know the switch works, I'll send you the details.
Mike the beginner

 

[john1270]

Thanks!

How so?

Hah! Have gotten into the habit, and I'll blame it on @Will Prowse, of calling these boosting converters "buck" instead of "boost." Been doing it ever since I watched this about powering devices that rely on AC adapters directly from DC. Product is the right one. "Buck" in my diagram should really be "Boost." Making updates to the diagram Dacian's given me and will include that one. That product is rated for 100W w a max input of 9A. Biggest jump I need to make is 12>20V, so I'll get a little north of 5A out of it (@20V) which a) is less than the converter's max amp output rating and b) meets the output current rating I need. I'll be using one for each device.

In most cases it's the smaller of 1) max load or charge those wires will experience given list of my consumers and output of my chargers respectively and 2) max current a device on that line is rated to support (e.g. "peak" currents, if only for short duration). In a some cases it's the later even if loads and/or charging is less than what I can expect from my current configuration but I may want to increase either or both at a later time.
Oh, and it also factors in wire lengths ... I've got a CAD drawing of where all these things will live so I have a pretty accurate measurements. I've been using this to confirm I'm good on gauge for specified length and expected current.

I suspect you're referring to "do NOT allow POS side of battery to be disconnected when NEG is still connected!" Yeah, I got wind of this in the comment thread I have a screenshot of on this post. I'm not too concerned about anything else. Dacian's had a look at my schematic and it "looks good" since I moved fuses and the disconnect to NEG side.

So does Dacian recommend using battery fuses in the negative side for all of his installs or just put the fuse after the shunts? Thank you