You probably have heard about the new Enphase Ensemble system. There is a write up of one on here.
Panels are up, final inspection today hopefully and net-meter should get installed soon. Still about a month away from the batteries. I'll start blogging in this thread all the stuff I learn and a full description of the system as I have time. If there are specific questions you have just...
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The Ensemble looks like a great system, and I had looked into it, but they kept delaying the announcements. I finally gave up and decided to do my own thing. It sounds like you are more of a "roll your own" kind of guy as well, so take a look at my thread in the "Show and Tell section"
I am still fairly new on the forum, tried to answer a few questions as I asked some, and have been talking about my plans and purchases. I figure this is the right place to talk about what I am doing and where it is going. My existing system is a very typical Enphase setup. I have 2 arrays of 8...
diysolarforum.com
I have a smaller Enphase setup using 16 iQ7's with 300 watt panels. I am doing an AC coupled setup with a Schneider XW-Pro battery based inverter. My battery bank is built from 3 of the modules out of a Chevy Bolt EV. You could use a crap load of 18650's, and that was one of my early thoughts, but to get enough storage it becomes a huge number of connections to deal with. Check out Battery Hookup. They are out of the Bolt packs I used, but they do have a great deal on a comlpete battery setup out of a BWM. Even with the truck freight shipping, the cost per KWH is very good. If I was going to build up a pack again, I might go with some of the better made Chinese aluminum cased LiFePo4 cells. I was also close to buying 32 150 amp hour cells, but the Bolt packs came in at half the price, so I got lucky. Nissan Leaf modules are also a good source, but the used ones on the market are only giving about 75% of their rated capacity. Not sure how much longer they will last.
The iQ6+ inverters have a maximum continuous output of 280 watts. Are you on household 120/240 split phase in the US, or on 120/208 3 phase, or in a 230 volt market? I will assume 120/240 for now as that is what I have here. Your existing 30 x 295 watt panels should be wired to 240 volt line to line if you are here in the US. Each inverter then outputs a maximum of 1.17 amps at 240 volts. 30 of them will top out at 35 amps. Due to the trunk cable being #12 awg, it should be split into at least 2 banks. The total solar power to your AC panel could peak up to 8,400 watts. That is a bit too much to put on one XW-Pro inverter like I have. They recommend not exceeding the inverter's maximum continuous current. That is just 6800 watts. So you could keep up to 24 panels on a single XW-Pro. Any current that the solar inverters produce, needs to be able to flow back into the inverter.
I am having one issue right now, and that is trying to force the XW-Pro inverter to charge my battery fully when the sun is over powering my home, and then force it to use the battery to push that power back out during the high 4 pm to 9 pm peak rate time each night. If you are only using the battery for backup power, this flaw is not an issue at all. When the grid power goes out, the XW-Pro inverter will open it's grid input contactor, and the inverter will continue to create a clean 120/240 split phase sine wave output. The change over time is about 8 milliseconds, so most devices will not react and just go on working. About half of my Enphase array did drop offline last time I tested a simulated power failure. Enphase is looking into why it happened. All of the loads that you want to be able to run during a power failure need to be moved into an "Essential Loads" breaker panel which will now be powered by the output of the battery based inverter. Whether it is a Schneider like mine, and Outback Skybox, an SMA Sunny Island, a Sol-Ark, or a Tesla Power Wall 2, they all have to disconnect from the grid like that. In your case, 6 of your Enphase micros should stay in the main panel, and they will stop working during a power failure. If you can move around the trunk cable, choose the 6 with the lowest production, put the best 24 panels in the "Essential Loads" breaker panel. Since I have just 16 panels, I have the entire Envoy Combiner 3 connected to my "Essential Loads" panel. The Skybox can take up to 7,600 watts of solar, not sure about the others.
With the inverter powering your important loads, the Enphase micros still see a good "Grid" and they should keep producing, or if they did glitch, they should re-connect after 5 minutes. The solar power helps power your loads. If the solar start to produce more power than you are using with your important loads, any extra power does go into the inverter's output. It will actually reverse function and use that extra power to charge the batteries. Different inverts act a little different from here, but there is one common function. Once the battery inverter sees there is to much power coming in, it only has one way of adjusting the power that is coming from the grid tie solar inverter(s). That is to shift the AC line frequency up above 60 hz. If your inverters are running an older grid code, they will keep producing power until the frequency goes too far out. Sometime before 62.5 Hz, most inverters will just shut off. Then you run back on just battery for 5 minutes until the inverter(s) re connect. If your iQ6+'s have been updated to support "Frequency / Watt control" they should be able to ramp down their output as the frequency increases. The battery inverter could be forced to do this for two reasons. Most of them will do it when the battery is fully charged. Many of the older units like the earlier Schneider XW+ before the Pro version, could not actually regulate the charge current and you would have to ensure your batter bank could handle the full power, until the batteries reached the absorb voltage. The XW-Pro and the Skybox can both shift the frequency any time during off grid charging to regulate the charge current based on the charger settings. So now you should have solar running all that you need, and your battery is topped off. The local fake grid may be running at 61 .5 hz, but other than that, all is well. As the sun goes down, the solar output will fall to where it can't keep up with the loads. At that point, the box switches from charging to inverting and now the battery is powering everything in the backed up panel.
If the battery is sized well and you had a good charge in the battery before the blackout, the battery should be able to run your home through the night, and once the sun comes up, it will start charging things back up from the solar again.
The one bad thing if all of your solar is AC coupled is that if the battery does run down to the Low Battery Cut Off point, the inverter will turn off and you no longer have the fake local grid. This is bad because, now the sun can't recharge the system, because the micro inverters on the roof do not see a grid again. There are a few solutions. The best is to ensure you don't run the batteries that low. Some do it manually by switching off things they don't need. Some add a "load shed" relay that can turn off a few less important things when the battery voltage is getting low, but still has enough power to keep the sine wave flowing to kick off the solar again in the morning. And another option is to have an auto start generator that can give the battery bank a kick when the battery goes too low.
After you read this and go over my thread, feel free to ask any questions.