Epever 4210AN "drop outs"

[sppone]

Joined the forum after browsing for a while gathering information and now, I have an issue that I can’t figure out. Recently purchased two Epever Tracer 4210AN with the hopes of running them in parallel. I have two 4 panel arrays, one using Rich Solar 100-watt panels in parallel and the other using Reneogy 100-watt panels also in parallel. The plan was to have each 4210AN controlling a 400-watt array feeding my battery bank, two Reneogy AGM 12v 200ah batteries (AGM12-200) in parallel, a 12-volt system.

My problem started the day I got the Epever’s. It was very sunny, no clouds in the sky and the temp around 95 so I decided to test the controllers to make sure they both worked. After replacing my current controller with a 4210AN all was well. Had six panels making over 20amps and then nothing, zero amps but voltage was still reading. Checked all my connections and everything was good but no amps. After a few minutes the amps slowly started to rise and then jumped to 25 and everything was good again until…zero amps. This cycle happened over and over and wasn’t due to clouds, there were none. So, I figure the controller is bad, swap it out for the other new 4210AN and same thing happens. There was no load from the controller load connections but I was pulling about 400 watts from my inverter running lights, fans and a TV. This happened for two days and I couldn’t figure out why, read the manual multiple times, checked the temperature of the controller and the batteries, both well within limits. I contacted the company I bought the controllers from through Amazon and they asked for screen shots from the display. I figured I’d do one better and spent the next two days trying to get the Epever monitoring software running for accurate information, this was a task by itself and if you want to know that story just ask.

So the attached information is data from Epevers software during what I’ll call “A Dropout”. It was a little overcast on the day, was using four panels in parallel for a possible 400 watts. The jpeg with the four screenshots is “A Dropout” as it happens: Number 1 is the system running fine, making power. Number 2 the drop out has occurred, zero amps from the array but 19.9v, and the solar status block says “cut out”. Number 3 is charging starting to occur again, solar status is “input” but the SOC is down to 46%. Number 4 is back to what appears to be normal operations and the SOC has jumped to 100%, all of this happens in a span of 3 to 5 minutes, was pulling around 350 watts from my inverter during this running fans and a TV. I sent all this information to the company I purchased from and was told:

“There is no problem with the controller. The input power of your solar panel is too low, so the current converted to the battery will not be very high.
PV voltage * PV current = Battery voltage * Battery current
Epever-readings-2.jpg
1. 17.03*13.63 =13.57*17.05 (almost equal)
2. Is the battery charging voltage you set 17V? You see if the parameters of your battery can be set 17V. The controller defaults to 14.4V.
3.19.9*0.08=12.51*0.15
4.17.15*13.06=13.52*16.6
The actual input power of your solar panel to the controller is only 230W, which is too low.
Low sunlight intensity? Or is the installation angle of the solar panel wrong? It is recommended that you increase the power of the solar panel.
And you can consider two solar panels in series, and then two groups in parallel. Increase the input voltage.”

I’m still new at this and understand the likeliness of getting two bad controllers at the same time is slim but their answer doesn’t seem right. I’d appreciate anyone offering input. Thanks

 

[snoobler]

I see things that shouldn't be seen, and it's not the 0A drop outs.

What are the controller settings for:

1. bulk or absorption voltage
2. float voltage

 

[sppone]

Float voltage is set at 13.80
No listed setting for bulk, maybe different name. I've attached a jpeg of most of the controller settings. I'm pretty sure I need to change the equalization setting to 0 as all my research has found not to perform this on an AGM battery.

 

[sppone]

Sorry, forgot to attach.

 

[snoobler]

bulk/absorp = boost. 14.4V Should be fine.

There are other settings I find confusing. I don't know this specific charger, but it appears to be set in an acceptable way.

You need to respond to their question #2 that the unit is set to 14.4, not 17. You need to send them the settings screen and ask them, "then why is the unit charging my battery to 17V?"

Do you have any other device that may be charging the 12V battery in conjunction with the charge controller?

 

[sppone]

No other device in my setup is charging other than the 4210AN. I wanted to parallel the two 4210AN but I need to get one working properly first lol. Yeah their question about 17v setting had me stumped as I've not changed those parameters. Thanks for taking a look at all of this.

 

[snoobler]

Based on the settings screen, the charger is not behaving as it should; however, there are some settings I don't understand.

 

[Bob142]

And you can consider two solar panels in series, and then two groups in parallel. Increase the input voltage.

Try this and report back. I suspect you may have better results. You have MPPT SCCs, take advantage of that and get the input voltage up relative to your battery voltage. MPPTs need a certain voltage delta just to operate. By keeping all your panels in parallel you may not be giving the controller a chance to work properly.

 

[sppone]

Bob142, wouldn't i have to change my system to a 24v system if I do this?

 

[snoobler]

No. MPPT controllers take any voltage 50% above your 12V and below their upper voltage limit and optimize it for power. Your impression is true for PWM controllers.

 

[snoobler]

Are you also certain that all connections in the system are completely tight?

 

[sppone]

Yes, checked them all several times when this first started. So you're saying take two panels and run them in series, do the same with another set and THEN parallel the two sets? With this I would not need to change my battery parrallel setup and I could stick with my 12v inverter because my 4210AN MPPT would handle all the magic?

 

[snoobler]

Correct.

MPPT is essentially a sophisticated DC-DC converter to optimize your panel power to your battery.

 

[sppone]

Ok, I'll give it a shot....in a few days. I'm in NC and the hurricane has arrived. Thanks again.

 

[snoobler]

Hunker down and good luck.

 

[Hedges]

Half of your dropouts coincide with a battery voltage spike. Maybe all had it, but only some were logged.
Controller may have shut off due to seeing battery voltage too high.

Bad connections? Inductive kick from loads?
Disconnect all loads, then connect simple dumb one such as an incandescent lamp and see how it behaves.
Choice of wire routing and taps could let it see somebody else's spikes.
A photo is worth a thousand words.
inverter power/return wires and charge controller power/return wires landing separately on the battery would be better if you don't already have that. Sharing any wire, and wires running in parallel, could pick up noise. Twisting the charge controller's power/return wires together could make it a poorer antenna. Same for inverter wires (twisted with themselves, but separate from charge controller.)

 

[Solar_Mann]

I’m guessing it’s battery or wiring related, not 2 bad chargers.
I had a similar issue with a different brand scc. A customer contacted me to add 2 additional panels to his current system. After I hooked everything up the scc kept restarting. It would start up, output low amperage, then ramp way up and instantly shut off, over and over again about every 15 seconds. Long story short it was a really bad battery bank. Battery voltage would start out around 12 indicating a discharged battery. as soon as the SCC ramped up to 30amps output, the battery voltage would almost instantly go over 15v making the scc disconnect and reboot. Replaced the batteries and all is working well. Too small of wire or a bad connection would also cause an identical issue.

You could always try 1 panel alone, then 2 in series, then 2 series pair. See where the problems start.

 

[Bob142]

@sppone, how’d you make out with the hurricane and your system? Did you get things up and running?

 

[sppone]

Sorry for the late reply. Made it through the storm with only loss of power for a few hours, no damage so fortunate there. I've been working and testing my system, I think I have it figured out. I believe Hedges suggestion of wire routing was the cause of the problem, since installing the bus bars no more problem, no more drop outs. I also installed a AiLi battery monitor and am really enjoying the accuracy and ability to get status at a glance. I went so far as to reposition my security camera so I can see the display from inside the house or with the security app on my phone. The attached photo shows the work in progress, gotta shorten some wires and add a grounding bus bar, the inverter is connected to the grounding rod outside, need to connect the SCC and battery bank . If anything jumps out at anyone that needs attention let me know.

Next step is I'd like to parallel the SCC's as I have two arrays both with 4 panels (series to parallel). Mount the second SCC and connect to the bus bars? That simple?

Thanks again for everyone's input.

 

[12VoltInstalls]

days trying to get the Epever monitoring software running for accurate information, this was a task by itself and if you want to know that story just ask

I would like to know that story. Just got a 4210AN and I can’t make the software work. I want to know stuff.

Like my P30L pwm was doing 11-12A + when I disconnected it and 5 minutes later I’m at .5 with the default of the 4210, no apparent change in conditions.

Without the logged info I can’t judge if there actually is a problem and if so what it might be!

So how did you figure it out? The “software” I mean.