diy solar

diy solar

Epever charge controller low voltage disconnect at 11.1V???

Do you have the cash to buy a different controller?
I had put aside a bit of cash for more batteries but I'm honestly considering putting this PWM behind me and getting an MPPT... so to be continued

How many and what panels?
4 (or 3.5... one mysteriously cracked... that's story and another problem)

The brand is Joy Solar... probably one of those Alibaba panels

I don’t know your controller but if it can’t be programmed you need a different one OR figure out how to program it.
A new one is definitely high up on the list! Got my eyes on one of those Victrons
 
^^This. The LV cutoff is ONLY for the load terminals. Your SCC doesn't control battery discharge otherwise.

This is a basic PWM charge controller - there isn't much to set on them. Just battery type, let'r rip.
What kind of batteries? Set it for that type.

If you can wire panels in series and gain some benefit for the higher input voltage, then maybe an mppt would be of benefit. Otherwise, there isn't much there that you're not already getting.
I'm currently using AGM batteries

It's definitely time for an MPPT charge controller... I've lost trust in what I have now
 
With the battery type set to USER you can use an LV disconnect voltage of your choice, however the LV reconnect must be 0.1v lower than the Boost reconnect voltage.
 
don't have the slightest clue about that but I'll have to remember that when I upgrade
thanks ?
Whatever type of CC you get, pwm or mppt, they really only regulate what is going into the battery if all the loads are on the battery terminals.
Upgrading won't make a difference in your case. What you need are separate low voltage disconnects or another power source to take over at low voltages.
 
Will give it a look... thanks!
On the back of the panels should be a sticker with data. I want to know IMP or Max Amps it says.
350W I’m guessing at 10A each. So a 40A controller would work for that. If you add two more identical panels the straight up numbers would suggest you need a 60A.

You should never “equalize” an agm battery so it’s important to set the parameters correctly. But you’ll get more out of your 4 panels wired 2S2P than the pwm.
With the battery type set to USER you can use an LV disconnect voltage of your choice, however the LV reconnect must be 0.1v lower than the Boost reconnect voltage.
You do need to not discharge too much.

Pollen’s suggestion could be interpreted that you could use a relay cutoff that is triggered by the load terminals of the SCC. When the voltage gets low, an appropriately rated relay would cut off your inverter sparing the batteries from over discharging.
 
4 (or 3.5... one mysteriously cracked... that's story and another problem)

>snip

In many cases a cracked glass will continue to work unless or until water gets in and ruins the PV cell, or shorts them out.
Just put a dmm on the leads in sun and you'll see if it's powering up.

If your 4 panels are parallel to a pwm now, and you can switch them to some or all series with an mppt, you will get a bump in production. How much depends on a lot of factors.

Sometimes I'll see 3A from my panels - 2P 215W @43V total - but 8 or 9 going into the battery. As soon as the panels see daylight they reach full voltage, but don't really start producing amps till there's solar energy to capture.
 
Pollen’s suggestion could be interpreted that you could use a relay cutoff that is triggered by the load terminals of the SCC. When the voltage gets low, an appropriately rated relay would cut off your inverter sparing the batteries from over discharging

Precisely, I had my disconnect set to 25v from memory.
 
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