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EPEVER MPPT not working right, HELP!

Are your panels connected the right way around on the controller's input, ie not reverse polarity?
Yes. Red to positive and black to negative. But for the sake of the question, I will switch them around to see if that makes a difference. Raining here right now, so will check tomorrow and give feedback. Thanks for the suggestion.
 
I am new to this forum, but have been subscribed to Will's You Tube page for a year or so. And...in the same boat as others in this discussion. Epever Tracer 4215BN. No green LED for PV. This is what I sent to their support. Heard back, was informed China is on a national holiday. Hope to hear by October 9. Will try all of the above, re: resests, etc.
Sent to support..."
Good day. I am getting no PV LED indicator when panels are connected to my Tracer4215BN controller. I am using two Renogy 100 watt PV panels connected in parallel and with two 125 Amp Hour AGM batteries, also in parallel. Controller battery type is set to default. The battery LED is green.
The PV LED on the controller is not illuminated. The MT50 meter indicates Battery "good" (13.4 volts), PV "night".
I checked the output from the panels at the leads before connecting to the controller. The output (on an overcast day is 19.2 volts, 2.6 amps). After connecting to the controller, I was getting no PV LED indicator light. I checked the voltage at the + and - terminals on the controller and it read 0.58 volts. The amps read 2.6 amps.
I disconnected the + lead from the controller and read the voltage between the + lead and the - terminal in the controller. It read 19.2 volts. I reconnected the + lead to the controller and disconnected the - lead. I read the voltage between then + terminal on the controller and the - lead. The voltage read 19.2. Once again, I connected both leads to the controller and read the voltage between the + and - terminals. Again, it read 0.58 volts and no green LED.

Please advise what can be done to insure I am getting full voltage from the PV panels to the controller. Or, what can be done to check what is wrong. Or, are the details described above indicating a faulty controller?"

Does any of this indicate "normal operation, or does it look like something is wrong? If and when I hear back from Epever, I will post a follow-up. Thanks.
I agree, check polarity first.
I imagine it is correct, so then (I’m no expert here, still learning myself) I would disconnect batteries from controller for 10-15 minutes. I believe the controller logic is stuck and deenergizing it, but who knows...
Then reconnect, check it controller is operating ok. I’ve been through this and don’t understand it neither. But after several disconnects, in various ways, it started working again.

Good luck! ??
 
Yes. Red to positive and black to negative. But for the sake of the question, I will switch them around to see if that makes a difference. Raining here right now, so will check tomorrow and give feedback. Thanks for the suggestion.
I'd rather you just check with your multimeter. Pull the + wire measure across it and the - wire (that is still connected to the SCC) and you should see positive voltage. If your meter can handle it you can measure the current too. You don't have to have the panels in full light if your meter can't handle the full output of the panels. If you see milliamps when you expect amps you have a wiring / connector issue with the panels etc.
 
A big shout out to gnubie and AlanGriff! I couldn't stand the wait so I braved the rain and crawled into the basement of my TT. I disconnected the red positive cable and checked the volts from the lead to the still connected negative terminal on the SCC. It read -17.4 volts. Hmmm. Negative volts. I recalled a tutorial from the altE Store YouTube page, where a negative voltage was recorded and was attributed to crossed polarity. So, at gnubie's advice, I swapped the red cable to the negative SCC terminal. I checked the voltage across the black cable to the now red lead negative terminal on the SCC. It read +17.4 volts. :) . As suggested by AlanGriff, I disconnected the batteries, let them sit for a good minute or more and reconnected . I then connected the black cable to the positive terminal on the SCC. Let me tell you. I have never been so glad to see a green light since the last time I took a run to the beer store at five minutes to closing!!! The MT50 also showed the solar panel icon with the charge arrows scrolling toward the battery icon. I feel like the guy who calls an electrician because the dryer wasn't working. Only to find out the breaker was tripped. D'oh! Now, before I hit the post reply button, let me check that we are still all green. Yup after 45 minutes we are still green. Tomorrow will be crossed wires tracing day. Once again, thanks guys for your help. This has been a very "positive" experience indeed. ;-)
Cheers!
 
Last update on my issue. I traced the wiring back from the panels, all good. From the panels to the MC4 combiners, all good. From the extensions Renogy supplied. All good. I needed an additional 12 feet to get from the Renogy extensions to the SCC. I purchased the extensions, which came pre-fitted with MC4 connectors on one end, plus 2 additional MC4 connectors to splice into the wires coming from the panels. I colour coded one wire with red tape. But, I mistakenly mixed up the male and female add-on connectors. I made the switch, but forgot to remove the red tape and move it to the new positive cable. Thus the crossed wires. I remade the MC4 connections, all identified correctly now. It was a nice sunny day today, still all good after 24 hours. All cables are buttoned down, secured, strapped and breakers in place. Success.
 
I just thought I'd share this here because I was having the same problem as the original post, and figured it out, or at least got it working. I was using an Epever Tracer 4210 (40A) with two 300W panels in series, 12V system. It worked fine this way for about a month, then I started only seeing 80V, and 0.0A on the PV side, and it wasn't charging the batteries. If I restarted or factory reset the controller it would work for a few minutes, then go back to ~80V and 0.0A.

The 4210 specs say maximum charge power is 520W (so I was exceeding that), but max PV array power 720W, which I was under. And it worked fine for a month. The manual says something about the controller cutting the power even if you put more than 520W into it, so I thought I was fine, but apparently it decided it didn't like it anymore. I'm just glad I didn't damage it.

I removed one panel, so now only have 300W going into the controller, and everything is working great again. Not sure if there are some settings one can tweak to make it run with a second 300W panel in series (which the manual says should work), but I'm good with just the single panel, as this is a temporary system and will get me by.
 
I just thought I'd share this here because I was having the same problem as the original post, and figured it out, or at least got it working. I was using an Epever Tracer 4210 (40A) with two 300W panels in series, 12V system. It worked fine this way for about a month, then I started only seeing 80V, and 0.0A on the PV side, and it wasn't charging the batteries. If I restarted or factory reset the controller it would work for a few minutes, then go back to ~80V and 0.0A.

The 4210 specs say maximum charge power is 520W (so I was exceeding that), but max PV array power 720W, which I was under. And it worked fine for a month. The manual says something about the controller cutting the power even if you put more than 520W into it, so I thought I was fine, but apparently it decided it didn't like it anymore. I'm just glad I didn't damage it.

I removed one panel, so now only have 300W going into the controller, and everything is working great again. Not sure if there are some settings one can tweak to make it run with a second 300W panel in series (which the manual says should work), but I'm good with just the single panel, as this is a temporary system and will get me by.
well disregard the above. The single panel started doing the same thing shortly afterward, 40V and 0.0A. It is definitely an intermittent thing - currently both panels in series are charging just fine, but it may be back to 0A anytime. I am working with Epever support, and hopefully I can get this thing replaced under warranty.
 
well disregard the above. The single panel started doing the same thing shortly afterward, 40V and 0.0A. It is definitely an intermittent thing - currently both panels in series are charging just fine, but it may be back to 0A anytime. I am working with Epever support, and hopefully I can get this thing replaced under warranty.
I am having this exact problem with my epever 6420AN. It shows pv voltage correctly at 110v but only 0.1amps. Did you ever get a solution to your issue?
 
I am having this exact problem with my epever 6420AN. It shows pv voltage correctly at 110v but only 0.1amps. Did you ever get a solution to your issue?
@wgrippo have you made any headway with Epever support on the low charging current? I am having the exact issue and only just beginning to engage them.
 
@wgrippo have you made any headway with Epever support on the low charging current? I am having the exact issue and only just beginning to engage them.
It has been a long, slow process. I have been back and forth with Epever support for over a month. They requested videos and photos of all of the components of my system. I got lucky and was actually able to observe and film the MT50 display as the current began to rapidly climb and then drop to zero.

The support guy finally agreed with me that the controller is faulty. But to replace the unit under warranty I had to contact the Amazon seller, which has been another long and slow process. The seller first told be I had to return it to the manufacturer, then agreed that I could return it to them if I pay for return shipping. I then contacted Amazon, and they agreed they will refund my return shipping costs once the item is received.

Being in Baja California, Mexico, returning it is not easy, so I'm going to wait until my next trip to the states, and mail it from there. Big pain in the butt.

I have since installed our 48V 6000W Growatt controller/inverter, and 9 of our 15 panels are on the roof, with 8 sealed lead/carbon 12V batteries (500 Ahr total), and we have plenty of power!! I love this system. We will be running A/C in the summer which I why I will install the additional panels, but with this system we can run just about everything we need, fridge, tv, computers, vacuum, etc. I may add four more batteries in parallel if needed, but they are pricey at $610 each.
 
It has been a long, slow process. I have been back and forth with Epever support for over a month. They requested videos and photos of all of the components of my system. I got lucky and was actually able to observe and film the MT50 display as the current began to rapidly climb and then drop to zero.

The support guy finally agreed with me that the controller is faulty. But to replace the unit under warranty I had to contact the Amazon seller, which has been another long and slow process. The seller first told be I had to return it to the manufacturer, then agreed that I could return it to them if I pay for return shipping. I then contacted Amazon, and they agreed they will refund my return shipping costs once the item is received.

Being in Baja California, Mexico, returning it is not easy, so I'm going to wait until my next trip to the states, and mail it from there. Big pain in the butt.

I have since installed our 48V 6000W Growatt controller/inverter, and 9 of our 15 panels are on the roof, with 8 sealed lead/carbon 12V batteries (500 Ahr total), and we have plenty of power!! I love this system. We will be running A/C in the summer which I why I will install the additional panels, but with this system we can run just about everything we need, fridge, tv, computers, vacuum, etc. I may add four more batteries in parallel if needed, but they are pricey at $610 each.
Thank you. I am considering just writting off the Epever. I think it may be more expensive in time and money if I have to ship it back to them and back again to myself. Will end up spending more that the unit cost me. I will trash it, notch it down to experience but will still raise a dispute on alibaba.
Now considering growatt vs snre vs mppsolar
 
Thank you. I am considering just writting off the Epever. I think it may be more expensive in time and money if I have to ship it back to them and back again to myself. Will end up spending more that the unit cost me. I will trash it, notch it down to experience but will still raise a dispute on alibaba.
Now considering growatt vs snre vs mppsolar
yeah, I might do the same. $150 lost is probably better than the hassle, especially since I don't need it anymore. I'm pretty happy with the Growatt 6000 so far. I've only been using it for about a month. I liked the fact that it has an AC input, where you can plug a generator into it to charge the batteries if you get a few cloudy days in a row. But I just realized it only takes 240V AC input, and my little 2200W generator only puts out 120V.
 
Everyone,
Got a reply from EPEVER on my situation and it’s in the attached photo as I want all to see what they said!
Funny, I had a similar response from epever. My issue was both PV and batt lights flashing green during charging. This is news to me however!! that the BN is NOT for lithium batteries. Huh? I got mine based on wills 24v setup. Now I find out it's not for my lifepo4?
 

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I am now having a similar issue with my epever 4210. I am getting voltage but no amps. This happened over the weekend when I discharged my lifepo4 battery so low that the controller got turned off ( it was raining three days straight no sun and my fridge drained the battery) I disconnected the battery and charged it back up to 30 percent with my car hoping the solar would take over but it hasn’t. The battery says it’s 13.1 v and solar panels are making 14v but no amps. I have reset the parameters once and it did not change anything. Any guidance?

I have tried factory reset twice and also disconnecting the battery from solar charge controller with panels covered and reconnecting it. Notice how the arrows from panels to battery are only on the actual charge controller not the smaller unit. Does that mean anything?

Update: and it’s working again so maybe slow software wooohoooooo
42AAA128-D5B3-4D85-93EA-9451E8B0B210.jpeg54390326-7BDA-460E-8C6A-2FBF876C464A.jpeg
 
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I am now having a similar issue with my epever 4210. I am getting voltage but no amps. This happened over the weekend when I discharged my lifepo4 battery so low that the controller got turned off ( it was raining three days straight no sun and my fridge drained the battery) I disconnected the battery and charged it back up to 30 percent with my car hoping the solar would take over but it hasn’t. The battery says it’s 13.1 v and solar panels are making 14v but no amps. I have reset the parameters once and it did not change anything. Any guidance?

I have tried factory reset twice and also disconnecting the battery from solar charge controller with panels covered and reconnecting it. Notice how the arrows from panels to battery are only on the actual charge controller not the smaller unit. Does that mean anything?

Update: and it’s working again so maybe slow software wooohoooooo
View attachment 46866View attachment 46867
Did you do anything to make it work again? I have the exact problem with EPEvEr 6240an.
 
Did you do anything to make it work again? I have the exact problem with EPEvEr 6240an.
It just had started by itself I don’t know if what I tried had any impact. it worked great for like 15 hours and it stopped again :(
 
I put my 4210 in the mail yesterday, sent to the Amazon vendor (Y-solar). We'll see what happens...they said I had to pay return shipping for this warranty return, but Amazon confirmed they would reimburse me for it...
 
Well the charge is still not going through no amps. I noticed my bms has a count of 1 for bms undervoltage, that probably happened when the batteries got drained down enough to turn off the solar charge controller. Idk if that would cause the solar charge controller to break or what. It had charged my batteries like 20 percent when I got it to work before it cut off again.
 
The battery says it’s 13.1 v and solar panels are making 14v but no amps
I think the solar voltage “head room” needs to be several (like 5v) higher than the charge voltage. It’s possible that your SCC is waiting for higher voltage that it needs. Is there an input voltage range in the spec?

Is there a way to increase the voltage of your array by putting panels in series or something?
Sorry I have not read the entire thread, just the last 6 or 8 posts...(mia culpa)
 
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