Epever MPPT Solar not working, low voltage/zero current

[Chris Youlden]

Hi Y'all! Im struggling to get my system working again after installing a new Epever Tracer 50A MPPT. I previously had a Renogy DCC50s combo MPPT/DCDC charger at my controller, but it was underpowered and swapped in the epever (The Renogy is still running and working fine as a DC/DC charger. I believe its a software issue but not entirely sure.
Setup:
6x100W panels on the rooftop on my camper in parallel. No connections have been changed, everything is tight. Plenty of sun. Multimeter reads 20 VOC at the end of the wires (8 gauge and a short run) coming off the roof where they enter the controller. Don't have that positive wire fused or set up with a kill switch, the cheap Amazon inline fuses were getting hot. Checked the diodes on panels and they're fine
Batteries: 4s 12V 280aH Lifepo4 Aliexpress run by a Overkill/xiaoxiang bms.
Controller: 50a Epever Tracer AN. + and - connected to the battery via 2 common busbars. Grounding wire runs to same negative busbar.


I only pull 2V and 0A as read by the MPPT. Thought maybe it was a reverse polarity issue, but when I switch the + and - solar wires I hear the alarm. The epever is way off with its SOC reading (75% @ 13.14V) but cant see how that would cut out the solar. System was working for about a day (produced 4.3kw) and then no power the next day without any changes to hardware. I've reset the controler by leaving it disconnected, tried with the BVS connected and disconnected. One potential thing I've seen is that when I plug in the MT50 module, it shows at as 48V system on the system info screen but12V (which is what I have)on the device parameter screenScreenshots of software below. Thanks for you help and advice in advance. Cheers!

 

[MisterSandals]

6x100W panels on the rooftop on my camper in parallel.

Is there a reason you have them all in parallel? I suspect it is a remnant of the Renogy limitations.
You can likely do better with a series and parallel connected array.

You pic shows solar voltage of 2.4V. I would start looking at those connections (if you do not change your array). With 6P panels you should have 6 fuses so check them.

 

[sunshine_eggo]

Controller: 50a Epever Tracer AN. + and - connected to the battery via 2 common busbars. Grounding wire runs to same negative busbar.

For the renogy, the design is to have the panels grounded to the chassis. Have you corrected that?

I only pull 2V and 0A as read by the MPPT. Thought maybe it was a reverse polarity issue, but when I switch the + and - solar wires I hear the alarm. The epever is way off with its SOC reading (75% @ 13.14V) but cant see how that would cut out the solar.

This SoC reading should forever be ignored. It is voltage based and does more harm than good. Seriously. Pretend it doesn't exist.

System was working for about a day (produced 4.3kw) and then no power the next day without any changes to hardware. I've reset the controler by leaving it disconnected, tried with the BVS connected and disconnected. One potential thing I've seen is that when I plug in the MT50 module, it shows at as 48V system on the system info screen but12V (which is what I have)on the device parameter screenScreenshots of software below. Thanks for you help and advice in advance. Cheers!

Based on the prior function and lack of function now, I would conclude the unit has failed.

 

[mikefitz]

You mention inline fuses getting hot, where are these fuses? If I they are getting hot it Indicates considerable current flow.
4.7 kW from 600 watts of panels on rv is really good, almost too good. It mus have been running at high amps
If you can measure the OC volts and SC current of the solar array it would confirm that there are no issues there.
You need to force a SOC with the Overkill app.
Controller may be faulty or you killed it. I suggest testing with a single panel or a 24v current limited power supply.

Mike

 

[Chris Youlden]

You mention inline fuses getting hot, where are these fuses? If I they are getting hot it Indicates considerable current flow.
4.7 kW from 600 watts of panels on rv is really good, almost too good. It mus have been running at high amps
If you can measure the OC volts and SC current of the solar array it would confirm that there are no issues there.
You need to force a SOC with the Overkill app.
Controller may be faulty or you killed it. I suggest testing with a single panel or a 24v current limited power supply.

Mike

I was getting around 23A midday. The 4.7kw may have been over 2 days though I can't quite remember. The fuse was after the junction rooftop box and before the positive terminal on the MPPT. The wire on the MPPT was warm, about a foot long and 4 gauge as was the fuse. The wire running to the panels was not.
I don't have an ampmeter but would that be a worthwhile investment to diagnose the issue?
I have the app which has settings for states of charge at multiple voltage readings and those are definitely more accurate

For the renogy, the design is to have the panels grounded to the chassis. Have you corrected that?



This SoC reading should forever be ignored. It is voltage based and does more harm than good. Seriously. Pretend it doesn't exist.


Based on the prior function and lack of function now, I would conclude the unit has failed.

I meant to say the case grounding wire from the mppt. My bus bar has a terminal that runs to the chassis and I think that's ok to do but never sure

Thanks, I haven't been trusting them too much but was surprised how far off the epever software is showing for SOC.

Is there a reason you have them all in parallel? I suspect it is a remnant of the Renogy limitations.
You can likely do better with a series and parallel connected array.

You pic shows solar voltage of 2.4V. I would start looking at those connections (if you do not change your array). With 6P panels you should have 6 fuses so check them.

Yeah they're in parallel because of the previous MPPT which was the renogy. Plan is to add 2 more 100W panels and switch to 24V. Would it cause an issue to run the renogy but only as the DCDC charger?

I turned on the truck today and the reverse polarity alarm went off. It stopped when I opened the fuse from the renogy to the truck battery. Any ideas why that would happen?

Made a very crude and incomplete sketch of the setup if that helps. Happy to fill in any useful missing pieces

Thanks y'all!

 

[Chris Youlden]

Also, do I need something besides a fuse between the MPPT and the positive bus bar to prevent electricity from back feeding to the MPPT? That would trigger the alarm?

 

[fratermus]

One potential thing I've seen is that when I plug in the MT50 module, it shows at as 48V system on the system info screen but12V (which is what I have)on the device parameter screenScreenshots of software below.

The power-on message (48v) is the max bank voltage rating of the controller, not the configured bank voltage. It also shows 50A rating but likewise doesn't mean the controller is making 50A at the moment.

 

[GLC]

Hi Y'all! Im struggling to get my system working again after installing a new Epever Tracer 50A MPPT. I previously had a Renogy DCC50s combo MPPT/DCDC charger at my controller, but it was underpowered and swapped in the epever (The Renogy is still running and working fine as a DC/DC charger. I believe its a software issue but not entirely sure.
Setup:
6x100W panels on the rooftop on my camper in parallel. No connections have been changed, everything is tight. Plenty of sun. Multimeter reads 20 VOC at the end of the wires (8 gauge and a short run) coming off the roof where they enter the controller. Don't have that positive wire fused or set up with a kill switch, the cheap Amazon inline fuses were getting hot. Checked the diodes on panels and they're fine
Batteries: 4s 12V 280aH Lifepo4 Aliexpress run by a Overkill/xiaoxiang bms.
Controller: 50a Epever Tracer AN. + and - connected to the battery via 2 common busbars. Grounding wire runs to same negative busbar.


I only pull 2V and 0A as read by the MPPT. Thought maybe it was a reverse polarity issue, but when I switch the + and - solar wires I hear the alarm. The epever is way off with its SOC reading (75% @ 13.14V) but cant see how that would cut out the solar. System was working for about a day (produced 4.3kw) and then no power the next day without any changes to hardware. I've reset the controler by leaving it disconnected, tried with the BVS connected and disconnected. One potential thing I've seen is that when I plug in the MT50 module, it shows at as 48V system on the system info screen but12V (which is what I have)on the device parameter screenScreenshots of software below. Thanks for you help and advice in advance. Cheers!

You say that you have a 12 volt system but you have your batteries in series? Your batteries are wired producing 48 volts so it is a 48 volt system. If you want a 12 volt system you will need to wire your batteries parallel not in series. So your controller is set at 12 volts but you have your batteries wired for 48 volts. I think you created your own problem.

 

[12VoltInstalls]

Batteries: 4s 12V 280aH Lifepo4

The power-on message (48v) is the max bank voltage rating of the controller, not the configured bank voltage.

In this case it is- maybe?

You say that you have a 12 volt system but you have your batteries in series? Your batteries are wired producing 48 volts

That’s what I read, too.

The 4.7kw may have been over 2 days though I can't quite remember.

4.7 kW from 600 watts of panels on rv is really good, almost too good. It mus have been running at high amps

Controller may be faulty or you killed it

Multimeter reads 20 VOC at the end of the wires

You pic shows solar voltage of 2.4V. I would start looking at those connections

Mister Sandels for the win

Start with MC4s and get that voltage fixed.

You’ve got whacky stuff going on. I’d test one panel at a time into the controller and temporarily not use your fuses to eliminate them as an issue

 

[fratermus]

In this case it is- maybe?

The display is showing the max capability of the controller. Your actual use may be the same but that is a coincidence; it is not trying to show how it is presently configured.