• Have you tried out dark mode?! Scroll to the bottom of any page to find a sun or moon icon to turn dark mode on or off!

diy solar

diy solar

EPSolar AN series to RS485 to Ethernet

Mak'in progress
The V-COM driver I'm using allows multiple devices running on separate RS485-Ethernet bridges to all be mapped to one COM Port.
I wasn't expecting this part to work so smoothly, so was a bit stunned when everything (3x regs, 2nd wifi AP) "just worked".
Also, it didn't break the existing connection to the original networked reg.

1632279008062.png

3rd wifi AP was DoA, so reg 5 will have to wait for a replacement, but I'm happy with the progress.
 
Two of my batteries were in very poor condition (ID's 3&4).
I replaced both today and with new batteries, I wanted to clear the stats and start fresh.
Then I discovered you con do a factory reset, but you can't clear the stats without a "Root" Password
1632397053836.png

For the next person looking to clear the stats on an AN or BN series (possibly others), the root password is: 102206
 
I can't even get the ruddy software to see the Tracer AN2210
Win version 1.95

Driver installs
have tried both Win 10 and Win 7
Win 10 throws up some error or other .
Win 7 seems to work USB driver installs virtual com port whine I can add

But I cannot seem to add the station ..
There is a n entry for Device ID..is that jsut your reference for an ID number set on the device?

How do I add the Tracer AN2210?

any hints appreciated as the instructions seem to be written in Chinglish...are as mcc use as a chocolate fire guard.
 
I've only used it on Win7 - sorry, can't help with Win10.

You are using the OEM USB cable?
I just plugged mine in and it reported as a COM port.

RS485 is a One controller / multi-slave bus, so it's the Device ID that allows you to address a specific device on the bus (AN SCC in this case)
The default ID is 1 and until you add another device, there is no need to change it.

When you load SSMv1.95, do you see a COM Port? If so, all is well. If not, try a different USB port

Add a station:

1632869382317.png

Select the first tab- Station Information.
1632869929006.png
The Device ID Must match your controller, but the other settings seem to be for info only.

Press Update and move onto the fourth tab - Controller
If the Device ID has a value (not blank), then you've saved it from the previous step. If it's blank, try again (first tab).
1632870413323.png
Check the COM port looks right. If you've got something else providing a COM port, you can choose the correct one here

Make sure the check box is not selected or it will try to add a new station every time you start SSM.

All being well, pressing the Start Monitoring button should populate the readings
1632870899938.png
 
Last edited:
Yes, OEM cable
Yes, it see and adds correct COM port, as confirmed by the Device Manager.
A station also appears

I did see some thread / YouTube video showing that I must go to Device Manager COM port advance settings and checking an RS485 check box, which I have not tried yet.

Currently I hit ‘Start Monitoring’ and it tries and I just get a timeout error

Will try again later this week.

 
Ah - yes indeed. Forgot about that as I haven't used it in months

1632902608683.png
Check the other setting while you are there, but checking RS-485 should make it work.
 
That was it.

Worked instantly after the RS485 check box

Now need to think about the User settings I want to use on my Lead acid cells. Don't like the 'Flooded' settings that are built in . Max voltage of 16 as a cut out ...I even thing that the flat is a bit high 14 I think was default.

Need to look again to see,

I have massive over capacity battery wise. 3840Ah at 12 volt. big stack of free but new aircraft tug batteries :)


What is the consensus..the Flooded settings too high or OK?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5324.JPG
    IMG_5324.JPG
    310.3 KB · Views: 7
  • Tracer AN2210.jpg
    Tracer AN2210.jpg
    200 KB · Views: 6
Excellent! Good result.

I've been wondering about the settings in my regs too. They seem a bit ... hot.
 
Excellent! Good result.

I've been wondering about the settings in my regs too. They seem a bit ... hot.
Question for the two of you:

I’ve got a tracer AN communicating with their SW on a laptop through the USB cable.

That’s working fine for occasional adjusting parameters but my system is in the basement and I’m now starting to think it might be nice to be able to monitor easily (from my living room, the floor above).

So in terms of the cost & complexity of getting a wire run from my basement up to the floor above (where I have my router), is Ethernet the easiest way to go?

How much screwing around is involved and did either/both of you settle on the best Ethernet adapter option for an Epever AN-Series Tracer?
 
Epever offer a wifi adapter that may be worth considering depending how hard it will be to run a cable.

I explicitly wanted to run cable, so I went down that path.
Also, I wasn't sure if the OEM device might be 'too smart' and prevent me talking to multiple SCC's. And they only talk about their mobile App which I didn't want to use.

Anyway, the difficulty will be running the cable. Once you've done that, the setup is easy(ish).
I couldn't find any reference online to the required settings, so I fumbled around until it came to life - I can save you some time there!

I'm doubt I selected 'the best' RS485-Ethernet bridge, but it was cheap enough and it does work. I selected this one based on their support offering the required Virtual COM port driver (just easier than kludging random parts together).
In terms of cost: 30~50usd depending on what is already in your junk box.
 
Epever offer a wifi adapter that may be worth considering depending how hard it will be to run a cable.

I explicitly wanted to run cable, so I went down that path.
Also, I wasn't sure if the OEM device might be 'too smart' and prevent me talking to multiple SCC's. And they only talk about their mobile App which I didn't want to use.

Anyway, the difficulty will be running the cable. Once you've done that, the setup is easy(ish).
I couldn't find any reference online to the required settings, so I fumbled around until it came to life - I can save you some time there!

I'm doubt I selected 'the best' RS485-Ethernet bridge, but it was cheap enough and it does work. I selected this one based on their support offering the required Virtual COM port driver (just easier than kludging random parts together).
In terms of cost: 30~50usd depending on what is already in your junk box.
Not sure what my ‘junk box’ is but I already have several cables running from my basement to my ‘command center’ so adding another one is no big deal…

WiFi might be a nice option but first I’ve got to check whether my WiFi coverage extends into the basement and second, I’m interested in the lowest-cost continuous power consumption possible.

Aside from wanting to keep costs to the minimum, avoiding huge headaches when getting things running / setup is a high priority.

I managed to finally get the PC software working through the USB cable, but just barely (the ‘documentation’ is a joke).

So yeah, any help you can provide to reduce ‘fumbling’ would be greatly appreciated. Do you have a link to the RS485-Ethernet bridge you used?
 
Your 'junk box' might be a draw under the TV or a box in garage where you toss retired but working 'things' you don't have an immediate use for, but too good to throw out.
A 110V-12VDC wall wart for example (my RS485-Ethernet bridge didn't come with a wall wart).

The bridge I'm using is the ZLAN 5143D (the D indicated DIN rail. Other versions are available). It's available from ebay, aliexpress etc.


Just had another thought.
Given you only have a single SCC (yes?), you could just run the RS485 up a twisted pair and terminate it in an RJ45 socket that you could plug your existing cable into. This won't get it into your network obviously, but qualifies as 'minimum effort'.
 
Last edited:
Your 'junk box' might be a draw under the TV or a box in garage where you toss retired but working 'things' you don't have an immediate use for, but too good to throw out.
A 110V-12VDC wall wart for example (my RS485-Ethernet bridge didn't come with a wall wart).
Oh, I see. I’ve got several of those ;).
The bridge I'm using is the ZLAN 5143D (the D indicated DIN rail. Other versions are available). It's available from ebay, aliexpress etc.
Perfect, thanks.
Just had another thought.
Given you only have a single SCC (yes?), you could just run the RS485 up a twisted pair and terminate it in an RJ45 socket that you could plug your existing cable into. This won't get it into your network obviously, but qualifies as 'minimum effort'.
Didn’t realize RS485 could be extended so easily. Is there any special requirement on the cable type (‘twisted pair’) and what is the limit on extension length?

This sounds like an easy way to occasionally connect into a laptop on my coffee table instead of needing to drag a laptop down to the basement - thanks!
 
Didn’t realize RS485 could be extended so easily. Is there any special requirement on the cable type (‘twisted pair’) and what is the limit on extension length?

It's probably obvious, but just to re-iterate, this doesn't let you connect the devices to a normal ethernet-based network. It just lets you use some of the same ports/cables as long as they don't have any other electronics involved - e.g. no network switches, routers, etc.

It just needs to be a straight wired cable - i.e. not a cross-over cable. The distance will be a function of the quality of the copper, the shielding, and the devices on both ends. Under ideal conditions (and slow baud rates) RS485 can work at distances of 4000 feet. (ref)
 
It's probably obvious, but just to re-iterate, this doesn't let you connect the devices to a normal ethernet-based network. It just lets you use some of the same ports/cables as long as they don't have any other electronics involved - e.g. no network switches, routers, etc.

It just needs to be a straight wired cable - i.e. not a cross-over cable. The distance will be a function of the quality of the copper, the shielding, and the devices on both ends. Under ideal conditions (and slow baud rates) RS485 can work at distances of 4000 feet. (ref)
Yeah, I understand extending the RS485 cable is not going to get the SCC on a network.

I’ve got a 5’ cable now so would just give me the same capability in my living room that I’ve got now in the basement.

I only need ~20’ of distance or so and I’ve got recycled Ethernet cable that is at least that long, so I’m trying to understand whether Ethernet cable can be repurposed for RS485 and what’s needed to do that as easily and cheaply as possible…

Testing would be pretty straightforward since I could first test whether my new longer cable can successfully replace the 5’ Epever cable in the basement before pulling it through the floor into the living room.
 
I only need ~20’ of distance or so and I’ve got recycled Ethernet cable that is at least that long, so I’m trying to understand whether Ethernet cable can be repurposed for RS485 and what’s needed to do that as easily and cheaply as possible…

Yes it should work as long as the cable is still good and wired with a straight-thru pinout - as seen in this how-to: making an ethernet cable. (Both ends are wired the same e.g. 568A)

RJ-45_TIA-568A_Right.png


Testing would be pretty straightforward since I could first test whether my new longer cable can successfully replace the 5’ Epever cable in the basement before pulling it through the floor into the living room.

That's a good plan anyway since recycled cable can be damaged in subtle ways that won't show up until you try to use them for actual digital communication.

A lot of folks pull cable through walls without an end on it so it can fit through smaller spaces and not get caught as easily. If you already have RJ45 connectors and the crimper, you can just put an end on temporarily to test with, then cut it off (if needed) to pull the cable through. This loses a couple inches, but may be worth it. Just always remember to leave yourself extra cable in case it takes a couple tries to get a nicely crimped and working connector. :)
 
Yes it should work as long as the cable is still good and wired with a straight-thru pinout - as seen in this how-to: making an ethernet cable. (Both ends are wired the same e.g. 568A)

RJ-45_TIA-568A_Right.png




That's a good plan anyway since recycled cable can be damaged in subtle ways that won't show up until you try to use them for actual digital communication.

A lot of folks pull cable through walls without an end on it so it can fit through smaller spaces and not get caught as easily. If you already have RJ45 connectors and the crimper, you can just put an end on temporarily to test with, then cut it off (if needed) to pull the cable through. This loses a couple inches, but may be worth it. Just always remember to leave yourself extra cable in case it takes a couple tries to get a nicely crimped and working connector. :)
That’s helpful, thanks. So does that mean I can directly plug one of the Ethernet connectors on a standard Ethernet cable into the AN’s RA485 female and as long as I access the correct wires on the other end when converting to USB, all should work?

I’m looking at a couple RS485-to-USB adaptors like this:


Or this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08SM651R9/ref=sspa_mw_detail_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1

With either of these, looks like I just need to cut off the far Ethernet connector and access the correct signals. Once I get it working in the basement, I can just remove the cable from the terminals, push it through the floor, and reconnect the same signals in the living room.

I’m a little lost as to whether I can continue to use the Epever drivers or need to use the drivers than come with these adapters, but the physical side seems straightforward (especially if I can use the existing Ethernet connector on the Epever-end…).
 
I’m trying to understand whether Ethernet cable can be repurposed for RS485
Absolutely.
For short lengths, you can get way just about anything, but twisted pair is recommended (making Cat5 perfect).

You could just use a fully wired ethernet cable, giving Orange-white & Blue on RS485-A and Blue-White & Orange on RS485-B (two pairs for each).
The downside is it will also put 5V (from the SCC) on the cable, which is not protected.

If you have the gear to crimp your own plugs, I'd suggest leaving out the 5V supply.
 
Absolutely.
For short lengths, you can get way just about anything, but twisted pair is recommended (making Cat5 perfect).

You could just use a fully wired ethernet cable, giving Orange-white & Blue on RS485-A and Blue-White & Orange on RS485-B (two pairs for each).
The downside is it will also put 5V (from the SCC) on the cable, which is not protected.

If you have the gear to crimp your own plugs, I'd suggest leaving out the 5V supply.
I don’t have a crimper for Ethernet / RS485 connectors, but I think with one of these I’lol be able to isolate whichever wires I want from the cut end and connect them using the screw terminals:

95F338D6-88AE-4913-826F-81F9E9AA1B60.jpeg
 
That would work.
You could also use a common RJ45 wall socket and only punch down (connect) the four data lines.
Strictly you'd only need two, but:
1. that would leave one pair floating and effectively put the SCC in the middle of a cable twice as long your run (not sure that makes it clear)
2. the OEM USB cable only connects to two of the RJ45 pins, so you'd need to make sure you wired to the matching two of four.

You could also open up the jacket near the SCC plug and cut the conductors you don't want to use (power and one data pair - the ground may as well stay). Then at the top, wire the remaining data pair to two contacts each.

something like this:
1633049727296.png
 
Ah - yes indeed. Forgot about that as I haven't used it in months

View attachment 66826
Check the other setting while you are there, but checking RS-485 should make it work.
I'm trying to attach an original Epever RS-485 to USB connector and have downloaded the USB driver from the Epever web site but I do not see the same port setting screen that you are showing. It doesn't have the RS-485 check box. I've tried it on 2 different Windows 10 pc's and same issue. Have any ideas?
 
Last edited:
Slightly different problem now - I upgraded one SCC giving me a spare to play with. That one was in turn substituted in place of my last remaining PWM reg - then I discovered a problem.
The 1210AN had been maintaining a 24V battery in its original position. When it got moved, it had a 12V battery.
Trouble is I can now not communicate with the SCC to change the voltage setting.

Is there a 'non-rs485' way to reset to factory defaults?
 

diy solar

diy solar
Back
Top