Something to be aware of when using metal cases of any kind to house the cells. The cell is wrapped with PVC material. Underneath is the aluminum case for the cell. The aluminum case is positive. So if something on the metal case the cells are housed in pierces the PVC and makes contact with the aluminum cell case, the metal case will become positive. And if the metal case makes contact with ground that will not be good unless the case is kept isolated from ground, as well as anything mounted to it that might have ground connected through a screw or something.
EVE 280 Amp Cells in 12V Pack
- Thread starter Opie91
- Start date
3D printed a bracket that matched the BMS and put screws through it all. Worked out pretty good. I'm building a second pack but make a new bracket that will hold the BMS with the wires already soldered on.
I am finding that the BMS takes 50 amps until the battery is depleted and barely rises above room temp with the stock wires. No way I will consistently draw 50 amps for more than it takes to warm a burrito in a microwave.
Not worried about that. I actually spent a lot of time keeping that exact senario from playing out. The box is all plastic and a proper marine battery case. The only thing that comes out of the box is the conductors.
Also the cells have spacers top and bottom and keep cells separated .2" apart. Fits just right on the cell. Gives about .1" of space top and bottom and allows you to get to the terminals no problem.
All U channels & threaded rods that come in contact with cells have vinyl tubing on them for insulation and help keep everything in place. 3D printed the spacers.
Yeah those cables look great, and the connections too. Did you do that yourself or did overkill modify the BMS for you?
I ordered the BMS without wires from Overkill. He said #10 screws fit in the holes. The one thing I do not like is at lower amperage ranges the top and bottom cables carry about 50% more load than the center one. I belive that has everything to do with contact area. The center hole has much less contact area.
If you are talking about the grub screws and nuts for bus bar than look here:
M6 Serrated Flange Nuts
M6x20mm Grub Screw
If you are talking about the negative post than those came from Amazon:
Insulated Battery Post
Thank you! I plan on using the screws and nuts from the links you posted.
Sorry I did not. The picture kind of explains everything. I'll list all the parts if that helps you out.
I'd like to see that list as well
tehdutchie
New Member
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- Jun 4, 2020
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Same here! Amazing work to see! Thanks for sharing and hope we can replicate it
Built this pack for my Dad's trolling motor out of 190ah cells from BLS. He can fish at least four tides between charges or even go back to the dock with his trolling motor if the outboard had a problem.
The biggest advantage was all the power to weight ratio. The boat is a Boston Whaler 17 Montauk and would have had a hard time carrying enough lead acid to run the trolling motor.
The toughest part is getting him not to charge it every time he gets back
24V Pack
View attachment 20168
Fits in 8D battery box
What material and thicknes did you use for the end plates?
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