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diy solar

EVE-280 cells should these be clamped tight or spaced for expansion?

My plan is to use 1/4" 6061-T6 aluminum plate with threaded rod and a Lucite top
I am thinking the same way. I decided to use aluminum because infrared heat photos of other prismatics showed a lot of heat around the terminals and aluminum is a better heat conductor than copper. The 1/4 inch thickness should make up for the lower electrical conductivity.
I haven't decided on the Lucite yet because mine are in a metal cabinet with lockable doors.
 
Bottom Line: Follow the Manufacturers Specs & Documents and everything else is on you. Some people always seem to think they know more than the Scientists or Engineers who designed the material/equipment, they can take whatever risks they choose because it is their money & lives they are risking. Smart Money is on those who follow the guidelines and Best Practices (who some will argue against) for the longest lived, better functioning system while squeezing the maximum out of the investment dollars.

It's funny how dividing such a simple thing can be, because of opinions.
Also funny is that many opinions originate from people who have never RTFM'd anything

I'm not entirely sure who (if anyone) your comment is directed at, but as the person who initially brought up the point about compression or "fixture" I would like to highlight that my information came directly from the cell datasheet, but the datasheet is quite nebulous and short on details on this particular point.

I think most people in this conversation are just trying to figure out and explore exactly what the manual and the engineers/technical writers behind it mean and how to best implement it.
 
Smart Money is on those who follow the guidelines and Best Practices (who some will argue against) for the longest lived, better functioning system while squeezing the maximum out of the investment dollars.
I am going to try and be like the Smart Money and will definitely "squeze" my investment in these cells. ;)
 
Compress does not mean put under pressure ! In this context, it means snug & tight but not under pressure or force.
Bottom Line: Follow the Manufacturers Specs & Documents and everything else is on you. Some people always seem to think they know more than the Scientists or Engineers who designed the material/equipment, they can take whatever risks they choose because it is their money & lives they are risking. Smart Money is on those who follow the guidelines and Best Practices (who some will argue against) for the longest lived, better functioning system while squeezing the maximum out of the investment dollars.

It's funny how dividing such a simple thing can be, because of opinions.
Also funny is that many opinions originate from people who have never RTFM'd anything who always wind up with extra pieces from a kit they assembled.
If you read the manufacturer specification under cycle life it says "The battery cell is under the action of preset 300kgf force". That certainly sounds like more than "snug & tight" and it also sounds like it is in fact "under pressure or force".

Can you provide a reference for your recommendation on use of tape and to have it snug and tight but not compressed?
 
I email EVE and got the latest specification sheet with is dated 12-22-2019 whats nice is it will tell you how to figure out date of manufacturing from serial number
 

Attachments

  • new LF280N(3 2V 280Ah)Product Specification 2019.12.22.pdf
    682 KB · Views: 361
Notice the new model is LF280N. old model is LF280. I wonder if part of the low cost on inventory is getting rid of the old models ?
 
Ahh, that would explain why it is Rev A. I wonder what the differences are? Maybe a subtle change in the chemistry of the electrolyte or the anode or cathode.
The new one has slightly better specs, not sure if there is a real difference though. the 2C for 30 seconds rating is nice.

It seems to tell us how to read the QR code, with a 71 for the current model number. Can anyone compare that to an older cell?
 
Notice the new model is LF280N. old model is LF280. I wonder if part of the low cost on inventory is getting rid of the old models ?
it does explain how to check model number and time of manufacturing. I don't have my cells so i cant check .
 
Nice! Looks like they removed the non fixture graph too
But the fixture data is in the body of the document

Interesting, I wish they would provide some explanation and/or recommendation regarding fixture beyond the one mention of 300kgf, taking out the non fixture graph indicates to me EVE treats fixture as the default, but by doing so they make it less obvious that that is their reccomendation. Most everyone overlooked it in the earlier draft, where the two side by side plots made the difference more prominent, if all we had was this latest draft, I'm not sure anyone would've picked up on it.

I hope EVE will clarify, I believe someone mentioned they e-mailed them last week, correct?
 
Here is what I did for my RV setup. My main concern was keeping the cells in place while moving.

View attachment 14798

Am I missing something or are these cells only being held down by 4 tywraps? If so a standard car battery hold down is substantially more secure.

Don't want to be a downer, but this does not appear to be safe for travel in any way.
 
Am I missing something or are these cells only being held down by 4 tywraps? If so a standard car battery hold down is substantially more secure.

Don't want to be a downer, but this does not appear to be safe for travel in any way.

Your head would probably spin if I posted a picture of my dual Trojan 6v batteries held down on one side with velcro and a cheap strap on the other side. My trailer goes down some fairly rough forest service and BLM roads without any problems.
 
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