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EVE 280ah stripped terminal

norbak1258

New Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2022
Messages
7
Good afternoon,

2 of my cell terminal are stripped, they are the 280ah eve cells how can this be fixed? Thank you in advance for the help.
 
One thing I have seen done is to force a 1/4"-20 stainless steel stud into the stripped hole. I/4" is slightly larger than the M6 and will cut threads as you screw it in. I have not tried this myself but Andy from the Off-Grid-Garage channel has shown it several times.

He explains it starting at 7:35 in this video.

I have drilled and tapped 1/4" threads but if I need to do this again, I will try just forcing it in.

Others have used spiral inserts, I have tried that but never seemed to have as good of a result as others.

BTW: A few things about this.

* I much prefer the cells that have studs welded on.
* Every time the stud is threaded in and out of the terminal, the stainless steel stud will damage the soft aluminum of the terminal. When you get the cells, screw in studs with red locktite and never take them out again. (Make sure you use studs that are long enough to hold the busbars, lock washers lugs and nuts.)
EDIT: Corrected the statement to say tighten the nuts (not the studs)
* A torque wrench is a good (must have?) tool. Tighten the nuts to 4.5 N-m. This is the one I picked up:
EDIT: Corrected the link
 
Last edited:
Thank you, for my next purchase I will do welded studs. This is the video I was looking for.
 
One thing I have seen done is to force a 1/4"-20 stainless steel stud into the stripped hole. I/4" is slightly larger than the M6 and will cut threads as you screw it in. I have not tried this myself but Andy from the Off-Grid-Garage channel has shown it several times.

He explains it starting at 7:35 in this video.

I have drilled and tapped 1/4" threads but if I need to do this again, I will try just forcing it in.

Others have used spiral inserts, I have tried that but never seemed to have as good of a result as others.

BTW: A few things about this.

* I much prefer the cells that have studs welded on.
* Every time the stud is threaded in and out of the terminal, the stainless steel stud will damage the soft aluminum of the terminal. When you get the cells, screw in studs with red locktite and never take them out again. (Make sure you use studs that are long enough to hold the busbars, lock washers lugs and nuts.)
* A torque wrench is a good (must have?) tool. Tighten the studs to 4.5 N-m. This is the one I picked up:
EDIT: Corrected the link
In the resources section, you mention to turn back the stud a bit. I'm a bit confused by your recommendation here to use a torque wrench on the studs... Did you mean on the nuts?
Screenshot_20221127-205924_Samsung Notes.jpg

What is the backing off for?
 
Did you mean on the nuts?
Yes, sorry for the confusion. I'll correct it.

What is the backing off for?
It is just in case they accidentally turn when tightening the nuts. If they are already at the bottom of the threads it could A) Strip the threads or B) punch through the bottom of the terminal pad.
 
Yes, sorry for the confusion. I'll correct it.


It is just in case they accidentally turn when tightening the nuts. If they are already at the bottom of the threads it could A) Strip the threads or B) punch through the bottom of the terminal pad.
Great, thanks for the clarification!
 
One thing I have seen done is to force a 1/4"-20 stainless steel stud into the stripped hole. I/4" is slightly larger than the M6 and will cut threads as you screw it in. I have not tried this myself but Andy from the Off-Grid-Garage channel has shown it several times.

He explains it starting at 7:35 in this video.

I have drilled and tapped 1/4" threads but if I need to do this again, I will try just forcing it in.

Others have used spiral inserts, I have tried that but never seemed to have as good of a result as others.

BTW: A few things about this.

* I much prefer the cells that have studs welded on.
* Every time the stud is threaded in and out of the terminal, the stainless steel stud will damage the soft aluminum of the terminal. When you get the cells, screw in studs with red locktite and never take them out again. (Make sure you use studs that are long enough to hold the busbars, lock washers lugs and nuts.)
EDIT: Corrected the statement to say tighten the nuts (not the studs)
* A torque wrench is a good (must have?) tool. Tighten the nuts to 4.5 N-m. This is the one I picked up:
EDIT: Corrected the link

Thank you for this.

I've just stripped out three M6 studs on my Eve cells, never even got close to holding specified torque. I'm sure more will strip out as well, but after three attempts I just stopped. These raw cells have been such a pain, I was about to throw in the towel - was on the Signature Solar website, with EG4 server rack batteries in my cart.

I have a drill press and can set stops to prevent over drilling, but had zero interest in trying to drill these battery terminals out to accept M8 studs or helicoils.

Fingers crossed.
 
Thank you for this.

I've just stripped out three M6 studs on my Eve cells, never even got close to holding specified torque. I'm sure more will strip out as well, but after three attempts I just stopped. These raw cells have been such a pain, I was about to throw in the towel - was on the Signature Solar website, with EG4 server rack batteries in my cart.

I have a drill press and can set stops to prevent over drilling, but had zero interest in trying to drill these battery terminals out to accept M8 studs or helicoils.

Fingers crossed.
Don't use a drill press, or helicoils, youtube have many using helicoils and they are vary bad tutorials.

I stripped one terminal of my EVE105 and it's very easy because the aluminium is very soft.

I fix mine in the battery, shut it down and remove the connectors at the BMS.

If you country system is metric buy a M8 taps Set Including Taper+Plug+Bottom if it's imperial buy the similar in inches, I had a reamer so use it to clean it but you don't need use a drill that fit snug and rotate it by hand and vacuum to remove loose aluminium. The tap must be flat at the end, for M8 most are.

Use a simple T tap holder and put some oil in the cell terminal, go slow 1/4 down 1/8 up, don't turn down all the way, when you fell resistance unscrew it, vacuum and change tap. When you have done the 3 taps, degrease it very well.

You should mark the tap with some tape to know how deep you need to go, T holder must be perpendicular and take you time. In the end use a M8 or imperial bolt, try to use the same material if it's SS use it, Steel, Brass and Aluminium has less resistance and you will notice it in the BMS.

There are reversible holders, if you buy one lock it or you won't be able to keep it perpendicular or go back to clean tap threads.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B4J5S8GZ/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A3ILYKI8R26I7D&psc=1
 
Thank you, for my next purchase I will do welded studs. This is the video I was looking for.
Plenty of reports of welded studs detaching also. If I got these cells I think I would get them in original condition and arrange to get my own terminals laser welded on.
 
One thing I have seen done is to force a 1/4"-20 stainless steel stud into the stripped hole. I/4" is slightly larger than the M6 and will cut threads as you screw it in. I have not tried this myself but Andy from the Off-Grid-Garage channel has shown it several times.

He explains it starting at 7:35 in this video.

I have drilled and tapped 1/4" threads but if I need to do this again, I will try just forcing it in.

Others have used spiral inserts, I have tried that but never seemed to have as good of a result as others.

BTW: A few things about this.

* I much prefer the cells that have studs welded on.
* Every time the stud is threaded in and out of the terminal, the stainless steel stud will damage the soft aluminum of the terminal. When you get the cells, screw in studs with red locktite and never take them out again. (Make sure you use studs that are long enough to hold the busbars, lock washers lugs and nuts.)
EDIT: Corrected the statement to say tighten the nuts (not the studs)
* A torque wrench is a good (must have?) tool. Tighten the nuts to 4.5 N-m. This is the one I picked up:
EDIT: Corrected the link

Gold, thankyou!
 
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