feeder tap/line tap-please help

[Hungfish]

i have this panel set up as shown. both main and sub have breakers to power the house, well pump, some rarely use... I am exploring solar with battery backup option for whole house. grid sell back is nice if the set up is simple or else that can be skip. I am leaning toward either EG4-18 or Sol ark inverter

please help and let me know how the tap (for input to Grid) and AC output from inverter to back feed can be set up . I am learning so more questions will come and I hope that's ok.

thank you

 

[DIYrich]

Can't read your picture. Open up the panel under the meter. Hopefully you can wire into that. Otherwise 2nd panel only.

 

[Hungfish]

will this work ? where would disconnect or transfer switch go? CT ?

 

[Hungfish]

Can't read your picture. Open up the panel under the meter. Hopefully you can wire into that. Otherwise 2nd panel only.

sorry for the bad drawing DIYrich

 

[DIYrich]

Put the inverter between the 400a panel and the 200a panel. It will backfeed the 400a panel, but there isn't an easy way to Zero Export (no place to put the CT) unless there are wires around the meter you can clamp to. The 200a panel will have backup power. the 400a panel will not.

If you can clamp onto wires after the meter, then you can put the inverter there. with 400a, you will need to parallel 2 sol-ark 15 or eg4 18kpv.

 

[DIYrich]

sorry for the bad drawing DIYrich

not a bad drawing. just not big enough (couldn't blow it up).

 

[Hungfish]

Put the inverter between the 400a panel and the 200a panel. It will backfeed the 400a panel, but there isn't an easy way to Zero Export (no place to put the CT) unless there are wires around the meter you can clamp to. The 200a panel will have backup power. the 400a panel will not.

If you can clamp onto wires after the meter, then you can put the inverter there. with 400a, you will need to parallel 2 sol-ark 15 or eg4 18kpv.

i bought the house with that set up and the main combo meter is locked by utility company so I dont know what its like behide the lock panel.

if i dont need backfeed (sell back), is there a way to wire to EG4 to utilize the solar when the grid is down ? maybe a different inverter ? in one of your post somewhere, DIYrich mentioned that the sol-ark has internal CT ????

or can i put a CT between the 400amp panel and the EG4 and not use the AC out on the inventer or I am just lost and dont know what am thinking

 

[DIYrich]

In order to work grid down, you need to be able to disconnect from the grid (can't backfeed the grid when it is down). The main panel can't do that in its current configuration without getting to wires that are possibly on the meter side of the panel. You can battery backup the 200a panel by putting the inverter between the 400a and 200a panels.

To backup everything:
Option 1: Move everything (you want to backup) to a larger sub-panel. Then put the inverter between the main panel and sub-panel.

Option 2: Tesla Powerwall 3 with the Backup Switch (meter collar interface).

https://www.tesla.com/support/energy/powerwall/learn/tesla-backup-switch

I believe your utility is SMUD:

Battery storage for homeowners

www.smud.org

If you really need 200a service, then Option 1 is probably your better bet, and parallel at least 2 18kpv or 2 15k.

 

[Hungfish]

In order to work grid down, you need to be able to disconnect from the grid (can't backfeed the grid when it is down). The main panel can't do that in its current configuration without getting to wires that are possibly on the meter side of the panel. You can battery backup the 200a panel by putting the inverter between the 400a and 200a panels.

To backup everything:
Option 1: Move everything (you want to backup) to a larger sub-panel. Then put the inverter between the main panel and sub-panel.

i dont need 200amp service. most breakers on the 200amp sub panels are not used. they are just there when i bought the house. Would it work if:
1/ upgrade the 200amp panel to 225amp panel.
2/ line tap between the 400amp main and the new 225amp sub panel. put the CT on the new tap
3/ backfeed AC out on the EG4 to the new sub panel @ 65 amp..
**** for this set up, ONLY the sub panel will have power when grid is down solar arrays still work to power the subpanel and charge battery????
or 4/ feed the AC out from inverter to transfer switch with critical loads. when grid is down, no power to the 400amp panel and no power to the subpanel but solar arrays still work to power the transfer switch and charge the battery ?

NOTE: with option 3 or option 4, during night time when i want to utilize the battery via the programable setting of the EG4, both 400amp panel and new 225 amp subpanels will still work or only the 225 amp subpanel ?

 

[225lakesidedrse@gmail.]

Check out the EG418k documentation that has excellent diagrams. Here's another source.

Rise 360

rise.articulate.com

 

[On_The_Road]

Check out the EG418k documentation that has excellent diagrams. Here's another source.

Rise 360

rise.articulate.com

So why does the Solark diagrams show you can basically put their 15k in between the service wire from your meter can and your main panel but EG4 shows you need feeder taps?

Aren't they essentially the same all in ones with a 200a pass through?

 

[225lakesidedrse@gmail.]

So why does the Solark diagrams show you can basically put their 15k in between the service wire from your meter can and your main panel but EG4 shows you need feeder taps?

Aren't they essentially the same all in ones with a 200a pass through?

Code compliance? Bottom line for me is safety, code compliance, and maintainability.

 

[NIS240SHU]

Hungfish, maybe I'm not following, but why would you need to upgrade to a 225A subpanel?

Also, check the part number of the panel. It may already have 225A bus, but the feeder breaker in the main panel may only be 200A.

 

[DIYrich]

i dont need 200amp service. most breakers on the 200amp sub panels are not used. they are just there when i bought the house. Would it work if:
1/ upgrade the 200amp panel to 225amp panel.

Doesn't do anything for you. Other than giving you a larger sub-panel.

2/ line tap between the 400amp main and the new 225amp sub panel. put the CT on the new tap

Don't need the CT. One is already built into the 15k or 18kpv.

3/ backfeed AC out on the EG4 to the new sub panel @ 65 amp..
**** for this set up, ONLY the sub panel will have power when grid is down solar arrays still work to power the subpanel and charge battery????

Backfeed through Grid Input to the EG4.
Sub panel on Load output.
Sub panel is backed up. nothing else backed up.

or 4/ feed the AC out from inverter to transfer switch with critical loads. when grid is down, no power to the 400amp panel and no power to the subpanel but solar arrays still work to power the transfer switch and charge the battery ?

why? I suppose it would work, but lots of work for little benefit. Just do #2, and don't need a transfer switch.

NOTE: with option 3 or option 4, during night time when i want to utilize the battery via the programable setting of the EG4, both 400amp panel and new 225 amp subpanels will still work or only the 225 amp subpanel ?

When grid is up, you can power anything you want. When grid is down, only what is connected to Load or Smart Load can be powered.

 

[Hungfish]

Hungfish, maybe I'm not following, but why would you need to upgrade to a 225A subpanel?

Also, check the part number of the panel. It may already have 225A bus, but the feeder breaker in the main panel may only be 200A.

my sub panel is 200amp bus rating. upgrading to 225amp rating panel for backfeeding to comply with NEC 120@ rule. that's my thinking

 

[Hungfish]

Doesn't do anything for you. Other than giving you a larger sub-panel.



Don't need the CT. One is already built into the 15k or 18kpv.




Backfeed through Grid Input to the EG4.
Sub panel on Load output.
Sub panel is backed up. nothing else backed up.



why? I suppose it would work, but lots of work for little benefit. Just do #2, and don't need a transfer switch.



When grid is up, you can power anything you want. When grid is down, only what is connected to Load or Smart Load can be powered.

thankyou DYIrich.

 

[DIYrich]

my sub panel is 200amp bus rating. upgrading to 225amp rating panel for backfeeding to comply with NEC 120@ rule. that's my thinking

You are not "backfeeding" the sub-panel. You are replacing the supply line to the sub-panel.

 

[On_The_Road]

Code compliance? Bottom line for me is safety, code compliance, and maintainability.

What about the Solark method isn't code compliant?