So, fully loaded, this bank Will power the inverter about 2 hours.
Fine for a small bank, but likely need to double up soon depending on usage loads.
Fine for a small bank, but likely need to double up soon depending on usage loads.
Oh, "14 of them" meaning 14 of these 48V batteries in parallel, 14 x 30A = 420A available, and 10kWh or so?
Solar
- I only have 4x 250 watt 37v panels right now, but I want to order a pallet (27-29) for 350+ or 400w panels. (Any suggestion)? I want 10kwh. The property gets a lot of fog so I need to build it out four times the capacity I need. The panels aren't compatible with the Giandel because of the voltage, but somehow they work. Huge loss in effiency.
* Air conditioner that tested at 450 watts, not sure what the surge inrush is.
I measured the surge for you. 4x nameplate. Running under mild temperature conditions, power draw was 1/2 of nameplate.
Is 600w enough
I plan on putting 600w of solar panels on the roof of a small camper. The Panels will be able to tilt so I can get as much power as I can. My main use is to run a 5000 BTU AC tha draws 450w in the summer and a 500w space heater in the winter & a few little items like phones, tablets and led...diysolarforum.com
You're talking about cooking with electricity. How do you plan to heat water? Heat the house?
I think you could have an electric water heater to be enabled when batteries are full, so using surplus PV.
Thank you for the reality check here... I've been looking at Jehu's stuff for a while before finding Will's YT channel. I think I will stick with Will's recommendations. I'm looking hard at the 48V BDGR unit from BigBattery.com after seeing Will's review of it, but $268 shipping for a $500-600 battery is hard to stomach. They offer free shipping for 5 or more units. While I DO own an electric golf cart with brand-new lead acid batteries that I could replace with 2-3 of these units, it's still not worth it to me. Any other tips on saving shipping costs? Maybe picking up cells in the local Seattle area and DIY?Yes I had some serious problems with his setup, using zinc plated bus bars and no safety equipment. He gets a lot of views on youtube and is pretty trendy.
I bought the PowerStrip 160A-SB120 Anderson connector version with xt60. I will be running 15 amps through the xt60. On this version it has four layers of copper, it claims 2oz. I figured that's enough,
Thank you for the reality check here... I've been looking at Jehu's stuff for a while before finding Will's YT channel. I think I will stick with Will's recommendations. I'm looking hard at the 48V BDGR unit from BigBattery.com after seeing Will's review of it, but $268 shipping for a $500-600 battery is hard to stomach. They offer free shipping for 5 or more units. While I DO own an electric golf cart with brand-new lead acid batteries that I could replace with 2-3 of these units, it's still not worth it to me. Any other tips on saving shipping costs? Maybe picking up cells in the local Seattle area and DIY?
Thanks for the Hookup, offgriddave!I bought my 48v batteries from Battery Hookup
These ones:
Greenway FULLY TESTED 48v 15.6ah 748.8wh w/ BMS
Shipping only available to the United States and Canada. Here are 48v battery packs with a 30a BMS and 40a inline fuse. These batteries come fully tested with a printout including capacity and curve chart (sample shown in the 2nd photo). The D-CC represents the discharge capacity reading. Each...batteryhookup.com
I got 16 total. One as broken for parts or fixed. The rest were 100%. I will use one for an actual e-bike that I haven't built yet and 14 for 10kwh off grid. I pulled the trigger because they already had fuses, integrated BMS, and Battery Hookup tests them with a ZKE programmable tester. They also answer emails, I asked them where I could ask questions -they pointed me here; I had already created an account last year.
I haven't opened the broken ebike battery yet, but I want to see if the BMS has a temperature sensor because of DThames's comment above
If I had to re-do it I'd go with Lithium Phosphate, the neighbor went that direction.Thanks for the Hookup, offgriddave!
Hi OffGridDave,My sister said she was walking her Shepherd pup above Stanford when it froze. There was a cougar on a branch above the trail, and people passing under unaware. I've never encountered one, but a few other interesting critters on my mountain property.
You only need to precharge capacitors before closing switch or breaker to battery. Lithium batteries are about 1/5th the internal resistance of lead-acid, so much higher surge current. People here report welding relays, and I think blowing fuses. My inverters have internal breaker so not as easy to bypass, but I'm using AGM. I don't have a precharge. Wouldn't take much resistance to significantly reduce the current. Some people use a high wattage resistor. I think a light bulb might work. or a length of wire.
Value of capacitors will vary between inverters. It sounds like you're using a different battery from most people, so don't know how it performs. I would assume zero resistance and consider inverter standby draw, selecting a resistor or length of wire that would only drop 1% or so of battery voltage while supplying standby current. That way capacitors get charged 99% of the way. (Instead of a 10 second charge that never gets above 90% of battery, leaving 10% to still burn the main switch.) One idea I had was a length of phone/LAN wire. It would probably charge in milliseconds, then you close main switch.