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diy solar

diy solar

finishing up my first system - woodshop in the woods

funny-guy

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Feb 7, 2025
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clownworld
Looking for some fresh eyes on my 24V system. This is to be a modular system that will be transported around my property. I need power in the forest to run woodworking tools (1.5HP motors tops). The sun shines far away from my several working locations, so I will taxi the battery pack (multiple packs in the future) and inverter to a stationary solar array(s) for charging. Because of the weights and bulk, I have tried to make discrete units that are easier to lug around.

Battery pack:
6 Valence RT (onboard BMS) batteries U1-12RJ bluetops, 3 strings of 2, so the system is 24V. Combined pack capable of 90A cont. 240A peak (30 secs). Whole pack ~3kw, used (2018) so more likely 2.5kw
6ga wires connect the battery strings in equal lengths to a pair of 550A terminals. 2/0 wires from there to a fuse (QUESTION 1: WHAT SIZE FUSE?) on positive and a Cheap 500A shunt monitor (Camway) on negative. Then from those terminals the main 2/0 wires to an Anderson 350 connector, which plugs into the inverter; and, another set of connectors to run a DC compressor cooler and other small DC chargers/USB/etc; and, another Anderson connector for the solar charge controller.
QUESTION 2: how should I add an on/off switch or breaker to this unit? Would running 3 smaller toggles on the 6ag battery strings make more sense than a huge one on the 2/0?

Inverter:
AIMS low frequency, 24V 3000W cont. 9000W peak (20 secs). It says it is rated for 3hp motors, plus I am fitting soft starters to all my equipment.
2/0 leads to Anderson 350. Maybe taking advantage of the generator charging function in the future.

Solar Array:
Victron charge controllers 75/15 100/30, with a variety of cheap 100W panels. I will be making due with what I have here for a while.
More Anderson connections. QUESTION 3: should I put a on/off switch before this Anderson?

QUESTION 4: Beyond a fuse for the wires, and breakers/switches and a big resistor for charging/discharging the inverter capacitors, shouldn't the RT battery internal BMS's cover the rest of my protections? The series strings have communications cable that i believe engage string balancing near top charge. Then I guess I just need to manually check the parallel balance every once in a while?

So you can see that the battery pack unit is where everything is happening. I'm unsure of where to put breakers/switchs, and don't know about the main fuse. I will have the soft starters on the motors, but inrush current will probably still be substantial, and some of these tools will be starting and stopping often = lots of inrush spikes. Ultimately, the max draw could be one motor (say, a 1.5HP tablesaw), plus a compressor cooler kicking on, and a tool battery charging. All that would probably trip the battery BMS's if they were sustained, but I'm having trouble trying to nail it all down and in the end this is the equipment I have pieced together cheaply second hand (1500 for all this, still need to buy fuses/switches/breakers), so if its the case that I need to, say, unplug everything before running the tablesaw, that's fine and I will make do. Anyways, thanks for the critique, this is a great website.
 
Fuses are typically 1.25 times the continuous current. But if you expect to be hitting higher than that in surge you may need to look at higher rated fuses and/or slow blow fuses.

For simplicity, I prefer a single battery cutoff switch.

Each solar charge controller should have a fuse or breaker on the output side. A dual pole breaker between the PV and the solar charge controller is recommended.

The BMS protections should be your last line of defense.

You may have enough batteries to spread the initial inrush to charge the inverter's capacitors that you don't need a pre-charge circuit. I had two LiFePO4 batteries with 120 amp BMS going to a Victron Multiplus 12/3000. They had no problem satisfying the inverter's capacitor inrush.
 

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