First post Van Conversion question on 400-watt-fewer-wires-and-alternator-charging

[stuntmanmike]

I'm three cups of coffee in and enjoying this forum thus far. As in the title, this is my first post and I am sure that there is a thread already answering it but I have yet to find it.

I am using will's blueprint https://www.mobile-solarpower.com/simplified-400-watt-fewer-wires-and-alternator-charging.html But have a few questions that hopefully will save me some time and money.

I have a 2018 ford transit with dual starting batteries and dual alternators. The van is for long weekend surf, bike, and general getaways. With plans to longer getaways, With this in mind, I found that the Renogy DC to DC with MPPT (50amp) seemed like it would be the right fit. I run a relatively smaller load but felt that this system would allow for some growth as needed. Was going to start with 200 amps of lithium leaving room for more if needed.

Questions:

1 Roof space while traveling is limited while parked it is not. This is where I felt the DC to DC charging would make up for a smaller solar array. My question is does it make more sense to have 200 of the 400watts of solar covered while driving and run all in parallel knowing that there will be a big decrease in wattage. Or run 200 watts on the system and have a separate solar controller to manage 2 100 watt portable panels that I already have.

2 while parked and not using or for the occasions that the misses comes with (she hates boondocking, KOA all the way for her) how do you feel about this automatic transfer switch for shore power hookup its also rated for 50 amps and felt that it would match up

https://www.amazon.com/MOES-Controller-Automatic-Transfer-Switch/dp/B07F12RDZ2/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=automatic+transfer+switch&qid=1578353164&sr=8-5&linkCode=sl1&tag=vehicledwelling-20&linkId=dc2cb97e9510194f2426a5a13f867830&language=en_US

Wills review of it here

For anyone that made it down this far in my caffeine driven state thank you
SM Mike

 

[OffGridInTheCity]

1 Roof space while traveling is limited while parked it is not. This is where I felt the DC to DC charging would make up for a smaller solar array. My question is does it make more sense to have 200 of the 400watts of solar covered while driving and run all in parallel knowing that there will be a big decrease in wattage. Or run 200 watts on the system and have a separate solar controller to manage 2 100 watt portable panels that I already have.

If the panels are all the same specs (or close) and all in parallel - then 1 controller is fine. Its also OK to have more then 1 controller hooked to a common bus. For example, let's say the panels are all the same today (so it doesn't matter) you still might want a 2nd controller as a point of hookup to external - so down the road you could change to different external panel specs without worrying about the roof set.

2 while parked and not using or for the occasions that the misses comes with (she hates boondocking, KOA all the way for her) how do you feel about this automatic transfer switch for shore power hookup its also rated for 50 amps and felt that it would match up

https://www.amazon.com/MOES-Controller-Automatic-Transfer-Switch/dp/B07F12RDZ2/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=automatic+transfer+switch&qid=1578353164&sr=8-5&linkCode=sl1&tag=vehicledwelling-20&linkId=dc2cb97e9510194f2426a5a13f867830&language=en_US

I prefer UL (ETL) listed components. You don't say but I assume you want to ATS the 120vac shore power? and 50a @ 120v = 6000w. You probably don't need 50a. You might consider a Go-Power 30a (120v * 30a = 3600w) ATS like this - https://www.amazon.com/Go-Power-TS-30-Automatic-Transfer/dp/B00153EYTO/ref=sr_1_2 I have 3 of these and they are rock solid and they are ETL certified. At the 50a level you're usually talking 240v - and I go with Progressive https://www.amazon.com/Progressive-Dynamics-PD52V-Automatic-Transfer/dp/B003VAWNVK/ref=sr_1_2 which are also ETL listed. Also have 3 of these with no issues.

For anyone that made it down this far in my caffeine driven state thank you
SM Mike

 

[stuntmanmike]

If the panels are all the same specs (or close) and all in parallel - then 1 controller is fine. Its also OK to have more then 1 controller hooked to a common bus. For example, let's say the panels are all the same today (so it doesn't matter) you still might want a 2nd controller as a point of hookup to external - so down the road you could change to different external panel specs without worrying about the roof set.


I prefer UL (ETL) listed components. You don't say but I assume you want to ATS the 120vac shore power? and 50a @ 120v = 6000w. You probably don't need 50a. You might consider a Go-Power 30a (120v * 30a = 3600w) ATS like this - https://www.amazon.com/Go-Power-TS-30-Automatic-Transfer/dp/B00153EYTO/ref=sr_1_2 I have 3 of these and they are rock solid and they are ETL certified. At the 50a level you're usually talking 240v - and I go with Progressive https://www.amazon.com/Progressive-Dynamics-PD52V-Automatic-Transfer/dp/B003VAWNVK/ref=sr_1_2 which are also ETL listed. Also have 3 of these with no issues.

Thanks for the recommendation and pointing me in the right direction, I looked at the 30 amp and just ordered one. it looks like a much better application for what I am doing. I will check out the outputs of the portable units and see how close they are.
thanks
Mike

 

[stuntmanmike]

If the panels are all the same specs (or close) and all in parallel - then 1 controller is fine. Its also OK to have more then 1 controller hooked to a common bus. For example, let's say the panels are all the same today (so it doesn't matter) you still might want a 2nd controller as a point of hookup to external - so down the road you could change to different external panel specs without worrying about the roof set.


I prefer UL (ETL) listed components. You don't say but I assume you want to ATS the 120vac shore power? and 50a @ 120v = 6000w. You probably don't need 50a. You might consider a Go-Power 30a (120v * 30a = 3600w) ATS like this - https://www.amazon.com/Go-Power-TS-30-Automatic-Transfer/dp/B00153EYTO/ref=sr_1_2 I have 3 of these and they are rock solid and they are ETL certified. At the 50a level you're usually talking 240v - and I go with Progressive https://www.amazon.com/Progressive-Dynamics-PD52V-Automatic-Transfer/dp/B003VAWNVK/ref=sr_1_2 which are also ETL listed. Also have 3 of these with no issues.

With the TS-30 I would have to run a battery cut-off switch on an RV setup correct?

 

[OffGridInTheCity]

With the TS-30 I would have to run a battery cut-off switch on an RV setup correct?

Not sure what you mean. An ATS is a Y. It takes in 2 different 120v sources and outputs 1 of them. Typically 1 input is grid and the other is inverter(or generator) and its a way you can ensure the 2 different inputs do not back-feed/interfere with each other.

Could you describe a bit more how you are planning to use an ATS? What are the 2 inputs that you're thinking of and where are you connecting the output.

 

[stuntmanmike]

 

[stuntmanmike]

So I understand the free standing system either from solar to battery or from battery to battery but adding to it is where I am getting thrown

 

[OffGridInTheCity]

Thank you for sharing - diagrams are good and I understand better what you're asking.
An ATS does not do both 12vc and 120vac - it typically does 120/240vac. ATSs 'sense' incoming power and these circuits are for 120/240vac (not DC).

You're diagram has the battery going directly to 1) 12vdc distribution and 2) inverter. Typically you put the ATS downstream of the inverter like this:

So then you ask about 12vdc... and you could do things like 120vac -> 12vdc step-down (shown above) so the 12v and 120v are both switched back and forth at the same time. This is what I do. Some will object to running the inverter - but maybe you always use 120v in the van so its not a big deal.

You could continue to run 12vdc from the battery regardless of 120v situation. Maybe your 12vdc load is small so this would work?

You could probably have BOTH 12vdc direct from the battery and 120vac -> 12vdc going to the 12vdc distribution block at the same time. If the 120vac -> 12vdc has isolated 12vdc output this should work - maybe someone will comment.

Or 12vdc manual switch... or..

But in any case, I hope I've clarified the ATS situation

.

 

[stuntmanmike]

got it thanks