first time setting up Solar on RV

[Butcher72]

Thanks for the member approval.
This is my first post here. First, I do have some experience with solar at an off grid cabin that I build. But... this will be a first for me to set up in a small class B RV, that has it's own electrical already, just no solar.
My plan, and acquired items. (12V system)
Two Allpowers 200W flexible panels mounted to the roof VIA internabond tape
An entry gland (has 10F of 10awg cable and MC4 connections and 50A BUSSMAN breaker)
Renogy 50A DC-DC MPPT controller with vehicle alternator option, 4AWG cable from alternator - controller with 80A BUSSMAN breaker
Chins 300AH 12V battery
Renogy 3000W pure sine inverter with built in transfer switch, 4/0 battery cables for battery to inverter (1 foot in length with 400A ANL fuse)
400A distribution block / buss bar
10AWG ground cable to ground everything VIA the chassis.
Contemplating between a Powermax Li Converter to replace the old converter not capable of proper Li charging, either the PM3 or PM4? (your thoughts)


Where my lack of knowledge lies?
The Renogy inverter has a built in Transfer switch and "shore power" input, my thought would be, I wire my shore power plug into it (SKU number is anyone is interested in checking it out RIV1230PU-126-CA)
But what happens with the electrical from my onboard 2800 onan genny? Do I keep it wired to the present transfer switch, and from there in conjunction with the shore power?
Should I wire the 12V side of RV panel directly to my battery with a fuse / shut off in between? Or will it do its "own thing" when I hard wire the panel into the Rengoy Inverter?
looks like I got room for this equipment to fit under the driver side storage area under the "eating area" seat, but will open up two sides with a 4" hole saw, and put screen for ventilation.
This is a pic of my camper van, any info would be greatly appreciated.
My wife and I, did a Ontario to Alberta trip in it last year, and a few weekend trips around Ontario and Quebec. This year we took just over a month off of work, and are going to British Columbia for the month of September, and there will be quite a few weeknd trips during the summer. We prefer to be "off grid / boondocking" and not camped at RV parks. Hence the solar set up, I'd rather not listen to a genny running.
Thanks

 

[0truck0]

Beware of flex panels. Because the lay flat on the roof they will get very hot. Heat kills efficiency in PV panels. IT will not be worth whatever benefit you are going for. Use glass panels with a little air flow under them so they run cooler.

Do not tape flax panels directly to the roof! The tape part is fine, the panel part is not.

I think u are saying you have a Renogy already that you can wire panels into. If so great, I wont comment, if not then you just wire panels to a solar controller then to the batteries and this will not interfere with the gen/shore power in any way at all.

Entry glands are great, that said, if there is any other way to get the wire in without drilling a hole then try that. Looks like a roof ac on the back, maybe it could get in around that somehow, or near it. I have used the glands with no issues until I want to make mods and the gland is in the way and yet I have already put a hole in the roof. Holes bad, avoid if you can.

Yes, u will need a switch to turn off solar positive wire at times, many use a DC circuit breaker switch, say 30 amps. You want to always and always disconnect the solar panels before disconnecting the battery always and forever this should be your practice to disconect the solar panel first and reconnect it last always I think I mentioned, always. You can add a fuse also as fuses might be more accurate than a breaker, and use a DC breaker as it is special compared to house breakers.

Consider a way that you can park facing East and hinge the panels on the passenger side so you can park and lift the drivers side of panel to point more into the sun. Your 200 watts will be less than 100 watts in Canada when laid flat.

 

[Butcher72]

Beware of flex panels. Because the lay flat on the roof they will get very hot. Heat kills efficiency in PV panels. IT will not be worth whatever benefit you are going for. Use glass panels with a little air flow under them so they run cooler.

Do not tape flax panels directly to the roof! The tape part is fine, the panel part is not.

I think u are saying you have a Renogy already that you can wire panels into. If so great, I wont comment, if not then you just wire panels to a solar controller then to the batteries and this will not interfere with the gen/shore power in any way at all.

Entry glands are great, that said, if there is any other way to get the wire in without drilling a hole then try that. Looks like a roof ac on the back, maybe it could get in around that somehow, or near it. I have used the glands with no issues until I want to make mods and the gland is in the way and yet I have already put a hole in the roof. Holes bad, avoid if you can.

Yes, u will need a switch to turn off solar positive wire at times, many use a DC circuit breaker switch, say 30 amps. You want to always and always disconnect the solar panels before disconnecting the battery always and forever this should be your practice to disconect the solar panel first and reconnect it last always I think I mentioned, always. You can add a fuse also as fuses might be more accurate than a breaker, and use a DC breaker as it is special compared to house breakers.

Consider a way that you can park facing East and hinge the panels on the passenger side so you can park and lift the drivers side of panel to point more into the sun. Your 200 watts will be less than 100 watts in Canada when laidflat.

Thanks for the reply,
One of the problems I have with flat / solid panels is the dramatic curve on my RV roof. Doing it with flat panels would require a built up frame to accommodate the ridge in the center, and lots of holes drilled. So I do believe either way I look at it, there is something I have to compromise. I just may get a couple more "portable" panels that I can pull out and stand on the ground and install a secondary MC4 plug in.
I do think you have a great point in ditching the Renogy Inverter and just wiring in the new Li battery to the original battery wiring.
I think if I ran a new wire from my "under the hood" battery isolator to the Renogy charge controller i'd get proper voltage and charge control VIA the alternator while driving. And also change the RV convertor to one that is Li compatible. I think I'll try that before wiring in the Renogy inverter I have, and if it works well, I'll sell the inverter.
I do appreciate all feed back.

 

[0truck0]

I know, yet I still say dont use the felxy ones.
Never ever drill into your fiberglass top. Keep that as intact as you can, even though fiberglass can be infinetly repaired, still try to not drill, cut or bore into it. For you VHB tape is the perfect solution.
Again, the big issue with flex panel is that it will get VERY HOT. Output will be VERY DECREASED when the panel is hot!
Yes, you will have to deal with the curve. Deal with it. The output will be higher with the glass panel due to having any amount of air flow under it (and even zero air flow the panel is still air-gapped off the roof). Except for the really nice flex panels, most are junk and will not last very long.
There is a 45 second rule when camping that says anything that takes over 45 seconds to set up is just not worth doing it repeatledy. You will stop setting out portable panels and hope the battery last long enough because of the 45 sec rule. Same goes for peoples beds that are stoable, they just keep them out all day bc the ones that take too long to put away just not worth the energy.
There are people that love doing chores, so if that is you then this might become a hobby.

I am not familiar enough with your Renogy system.
Are u asking if the DC input voltage will affect the shore/generator transfer switch? IDT that will be an issue, the switch is only to select AC power source, not DC. You can charge the same battery with multiple chargers at the same time with no issues.

Yes, get a lithium charger. The lead acid charger will work and not hurt lithium, but the lithium will not get to 100% on just a lead acid charger, however, you do not have to be at 100% to use the battery power, so run an old charger all you want. Your solar will get the batts to 100%. If you can afford it, go ahead and get the right charger from the start.

On vehicle systems is good to get a DC to DC charge controller to protect the alternator. On trailers most think and experience that the wire run is too long for the trailer battery to pull high amperage from the alternator anyway, so can get away with not having DC to DC controller. I have one on my trailer just in case, is a hassle more than the expense of replacing an alternator in the most remote parts of out nation's road system....

I just bought a Vevor charger/converter for my system bc I added more batteries and feel the 20amp charger will be useless to recharge 600 amp hrs. I think was $70 on ebay.
Not a sponsor but I had good customer service with Vevor. I needed a part that I lost, and they instead just sent me the entire product, part included, bc they didnt want to bother finding the $2 individual part. Hopefully they are as good with chargers.

Tell about your Renogy. Do you run the solar into it, and the generator and the shore power? and it is a Renogy lead acid version, not lithium?

 

[Backyard]

On the RV that I did, we used a renogy inverter charger combo. We ran the RV cord to the inverter charger and installed an outlet nearby powered by the generator. So we could take the cord and plug it into the new generator outlet or to house power. We did it this way so there was no chance of having the generator powering it and making the cord live or powering by house and generator at the same time. Fool proof.

Based on what you told use on your cable size and fuses. Your 10AWG ground wires seems awfully small. You ground for each equipment should be the same or larger AWG as the positive feed to it

 

[Butcher72]

On the RV that I did, we used a renogy inverter charger combo. We ran the RV cord to the inverter charger and installed an outlet nearby powered by the generator. So we could take the cord and plug it into the new generator outlet or to house power. We did it this way so there was no chance of having the generator powering it and making the cord live or powering by house and generator at the same time. Fool proof.

Based on what you told use on your cable size and fuses. Your 10AWG ground wires seems awfully small. You ground for each equipment should be the same or larger AWG as the positive feed to it

Thanks, that is a good idea installing an outlet for the genny! I appreciate that idea.
I have 4/0 for the negative cable, same as the positive, the 10AWG is for frame grounding, recommended by renogy in their schematics? you can see it in these links, particularly page 18. https://ca.renogy.com/content/PUH-INVT/PU-Manual.pdf

 

[Butcher72]

I know, yet I still say dont use the felxy ones.
Never ever drill into your fiberglass top. Keep that as intact as you can, even though fiberglass can be infinetly repaired, still try to not drill, cut or bore into it. For you VHB tape is the perfect solution.
Again, the big issue with flex panel is that it will get VERY HOT. Output will be VERY DECREASED when the panel is hot!
Yes, you will have to deal with the curve. Deal with it. The output will be higher with the glass panel due to having any amount of air flow under it (and even zero air flow the panel is still air-gapped off the roof). Except for the really nice flex panels, most are junk and will not last very long.
There is a 45 second rule when camping that says anything that takes over 45 seconds to set up is just not worth doing it repeatledy. You will stop setting out portable panels and hope the battery last long enough because of the 45 sec rule. Same goes for peoples beds that are stoable, they just keep them out all day bc the ones that take too long to put away just not worth the energy.
There are people that love doing chores, so if that is you then this might become a hobby.

I am not familiar enough with your Renogy system.
Are u asking if the DC input voltage will affect the shore/generator transfer switch? IDT that will be an issue, the switch is only to select AC power source, not DC. You can charge the same battery with multiple chargers at the same time with no issues.

Yes, get a lithium charger. The lead acid charger will work and not hurt lithium, but the lithium will not get to 100% on just a lead acid charger, however, you do not have to be at 100% to use the battery power, so run an old charger all you want. Your solar will get the batts to 100%. If you can afford it, go ahead and get the right charger from the start.

On vehicle systems is good to get a DC to DC charge controller to protect the alternator. On trailers most think and experience that the wire run is too long for the trailer battery to pull high amperage from the alternator anyway, so can get away with not having DC to DC controller. I have one on my trailer just in case, is a hassle more than the expense of replacing an alternator in the most remote parts of out nation's road system....

I just bought a Vevor charger/converter for my system bc I added more batteries and feel the 20amp charger will be useless to recharge 600 amp hrs. I think was $70 on ebay.
Not a sponsor but I had good customer service with Vevor. I needed a part that I lost, and they instead just sent me the entire product, part included, bc they didnt want to bother finding the $2 individual part. Hopefully they are as good with chargers.

Tell about your Renogy. Do you run the solar into it, and the generator and the shore power? and it is a Renogy lead acid version, not lithium?

https://ca.renogy.com/content/PUH-INVT/PU-Manual.pdf this is the link for the inverter, page 13 is the schematics I was going to use

 

[Butcher72]

https://ca.renogy.com/content/PUH-INVT/PU-Manual.pdf this is the link for the inverter, page 13 is the schematics I was going to use

id be eliminating the batter charger see in the previous link, as the 50A MPPT charge controller I have, also has a DC-DC built in charger. this is the link, wiring schematics starts around page 25 https://store-4zqahxlkkh.mybigcommerce.com/content/RBC3050/RBC50D1S-G6.pdf

 

[Butcher72]

I know, yet I still say dont use the felxy ones.
Never ever drill into your fiberglass top. Keep that as intact as you can, even though fiberglass can be infinetly repaired, still try to not drill, cut or bore into it. For you VHB tape is the perfect solution.
Again, the big issue with flex panel is that it will get VERY HOT. Output will be VERY DECREASED when the panel is hot!
Yes, you will have to deal with the curve. Deal with it. The output will be higher with the glass panel due to having any amount of air flow under it (and even zero air flow the panel is still air-gapped off the roof). Except for the really nice flex panels, most are junk and will not last very long.
There is a 45 second rule when camping that says anything that takes over 45 seconds to set up is just not worth doing it repeatledy. You will stop setting out portable panels and hope the battery last long enough because of the 45 sec rule. Same goes for peoples beds that are stoable, they just keep them out all day bc the ones that take too long to put away just not worth the energy.
There are people that love doing chores, so if that is you then this might become a hobby.

I am not familiar enough with your Renogy system.
Are u asking if the DC input voltage will affect the shore/generator transfer switch? IDT that will be an issue, the switch is only to select AC power source, not DC. You can charge the same battery with multiple chargers at the same time with no issues.

Yes, get a lithium charger. The lead acid charger will work and not hurt lithium, but the lithium will not get to 100% on just a lead acid charger, however, you do not have to be at 100% to use the battery power, so run an old charger all you want. Your solar will get the batts to 100%. If you can afford it, go ahead and get the right charger from the start.

On vehicle systems is good to get a DC to DC charge controller to protect the alternator. On trailers most think and experience that the wire run is too long for the trailer battery to pull high amperage from the alternator anyway, so can get away with not having DC to DC controller. I have one on my trailer just in case, is a hassle more than the expense of replacing an alternator in the most remote parts of out nation's road system....

I just bought a Vevor charger/converter for my system bc I added more batteries and feel the 20amp charger will be useless to recharge 600 amp hrs. I think was $70 on ebay.
Not a sponsor but I had good customer service with Vevor. I needed a part that I lost, and they instead just sent me the entire product, part included, bc they didnt want to bother finding the $2 individual part. Hopefully they are as good with chargers.

Tell about your Renogy. Do you run the solar into it, and the generator and the shore power? and it is a Renogy lead acid version, not lithium?

maybe this between the roof, and the panel to help with cooling, hmmm https://plantagreenhouses.ca/produc...M3OS4xLjEuMTc0MjUwMDM3OS42MC4wLjE2MDkxODk5NTQ.

 

[Backyard]

Thanks, that is a good idea installing an outlet for the genny! I appreciate that idea.
I have 4/0 for the negative cable, same as the positive, the 10AWG is for frame grounding, recommended by renogy in their schematics? you can see it in these links, particularly page 18. https://ca.renogy.com/content/PUH-INVT/PU-Manual.pdf

Ok. So your actually just using the 10 gauge for bonding. That should be fine. Does the cord for house power have the ground wire connected to the frame?

I think that's the same model I installed in the RV. (3k watt version)

 

[Butcher72]

Ok. So your actually just using the 10 gauge for bonding. That should be fine. Does the cord for house power have the ground wire connected to the frame?

I think that's the same model I installed in the RV. (3k watt version)

I'll find out more about the "house" side electrical when I take the cover off of it, put the chassis battery in it, move it to my garage, and start taking out the rear folding "couch / bed" and dig into it. I would suspect it is, but not sure.

 

[Butcher72]

I'll find out more about the "house" side electrical when I take the cover off of it, put the chassis battery in it, move it to my garage, and start taking out the rear folding "couch / bed" and dig into it. I would suspect it is, but not sure.

apparently this inverter is a brand new version with a transfer switch. I did have a 2000w unit a few years back in a cabin I built, it was a charger / inverter with a transfer switch. this one don't look the same at all. no LED screen, and much thinner, this was the previous one I had. I did have problems with the transfer switch when using a honda 3500W inverter genny, but worked fine with a 2000W cheap briggs and stratton inverter genny. https://ca.renogy.com/2000w-12v-pure-sine-wave-inverter-charger-w-lcd-display/

 

[0truck0]

maybe this between the roof, and the panel to help with cooling, hmmm https://plantagreenhouses.ca/produc...M3OS4xLjEuMTc0MjUwMDM3OS42MC4wLjE2MDkxODk5NTQ.

Corrugated plastic. If you wait til an election day then the plastic is free and you keep it out of a landfill.... $90 is they see you coming. You can get it new at hardware store too. Lots of Camala vote signs in the trash these days, just look around.
Just dont tape both ends of the flutes.

 

[Aussieguy]

Good idea about the Kamali signs ...................... saving my good ones for family heirlooms

except I rater have the rigid panels

 

[bobimport]

I am looking at the 3m tapes and VHB says to hold 3 lb 2inch to hold 30 lb 60inch?

ah what am i getting wrong Looking to mount z brackets to a truck roof

 

[Backyard]

I am looking at the 3m tapes and VHB says to hold 3 lb 2inch to hold 30 lb 60inch?

ah what am i getting wrong Looking to mount z brackets to a truck roof

I'm seeing 90 lbs a square inch

https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/2366505O/3m-vhb-tape-5925.pdf?&fn=3M-VHB-Tape-5925.pdf