• Have you tried out dark mode?! Scroll to the bottom of any page to find a sun or moon icon to turn dark mode on or off!

diy solar

diy solar

Fix or Replace Senville Minisplit

If it cools, but has trouble heating. Probably low.
Best thing to do is evacuate the sys, and compare the weight removed to the spec on the tag, then vac down. And recharge to spec. But if you do all that charge sys with nitrogen and soapy water all the connection, then recharge
It didn't have an issue cooling this summer and although I see no signs of a damp or oily area on anything I can get to, including the most common leaks of the flare connection, I'm thinking check the pressure (only thing found online is ~400psi in heating) and if it seems unreasonably low, get down to spraying everything with soapy water.
 
That's an incredibly useful procedure. I'm about to pull out my minisplit and wasn't sure how to capture the refrigerant, maybe let it return to nature?

So from my understanding, I close the bottom line, the unit will suck all the 410 back into the compressor area, then close the ports and kill the power so I don't burn the pump out? Then I can disconnect it and relocate it to where I want and vacuum the lines and just release the 410 back into the lines?

Yup. Just put the unit in cooling mode
 
The one time I had to pump down a mini split without gauges the compressor made a distinct change in tone when the refrigerant was evacuated from the head unit and line set. Anyone else with gauges noticed the same when a unit was pumped down?
 
When mine was low on freon in cooling mode the large low pressure valve on the outside compressor would freeze up. I would have to put .5 to 1 lb of R410 to get the pressure above 125 and had seen it as high as 180 PSI.

Now R410 is a lot harder to get now but I bought it without a license here. My buddy came over and showed me how to do it and left me a scale and meters.
 
After watching several utube vids, it looks like the only reliable way to know freon is low is to vacuum it out, weight it, and compare it to the nameplate capacity. Also looks like they don't hold much freon at all and are super easy to overfill damaging the compressor.

Anyone else find trying to find the right replacement part on the senville website very frustrating?

Anyhow, weather is turning bad the next couple days so this project will have to wait.
 
After watching several utube vids, it looks like the only reliable way to know freon is low is to vacuum it out, weight it, and compare it to the nameplate capacity. Also looks like they don't hold much freon at all and are super easy to overfill damaging the compressor.

Anyone else find trying to find the right replacement part on the senville website very frustrating?

Anyhow, weather is turning bad the next couple days so this project will have to wait.

Which remote control do you have? You can access the various temperature readings of the unit and see if any of your thermistors are bad.

Or, if your unit has wifi(and not the stupid Alexa dongle) you can download the midea Smart home app and it will tell you the various temperature readings so you can see if one is off.

I had units that somehow were a lb low so I vacuumed out and weighed refrigerant back in.

Or, you can just add a . 25lb at a time until it starts working correctly.
 
Remote rg10L1(d2hs)/bgefu1, doesn't say anything in the remote manual about other temperature readings, although holding down one of the remote buttons forces the head unit to display the temperature it's probe is seeing, instead of the head unit displaying the set temperature.
 
Which remote control do you have? You can access the various temperature readings of the unit and see if any of your thermistors are bad.

Or, if your unit has wifi(and not the stupid Alexa dongle) you can download the midea Smart home app and it will tell you the various temperature readings so you can see if one is off.

I had units that somehow were a lb low so I vacuumed out and weighed refrigerant back in.

Or, you can just add a . 25lb at a time until it starts working correctly.

page 6 service inquiry codes.

you'll want to find out the cods for 0-5

---------------------------------------

1. Simultaneously press ON/OFF and FAN SPEED for 8 seconds.
a. The remote is now in the INQUIRY mode.
b. The remote control remains in the INQUIRY mode for 1
minute if no other button is pressed.
c. While in the INQUIRY Mode, the remote display cancels all
icons except AUTO, COOL, DRY, HEAT and Battery
Strength.
d. The remote control digital display defaults to 0 upon entering
the INQUIRY mode.
e. In the INQUIRY mode, each digital code (from 0 to 30) is
accessed by pressing the UP or DOWN arrows .
f. The INQUIRY information appears on the high wall indoor
unit display in approximately 1 second after accessing the
digital code. Press OK to send as well.
g. In the INQUIRY mode, all other buttons and operations are
invalid except for UP, DOWN and OK or the operation to exit
the INQUIRY mode.


----------------------------------------------------------
Remote Controller Service Mode Functions
Note: While in the INQUIRY mode, refer to the following
instructions to enter SERVICE mode for the applicable codes.
Below is a list of INQUIRY modes and serviceable functions.
a. Before using the remote’s service functions, turn OFF the
indoor unit with the remote.
b. Turn OFF the power to the outdoor unit for 2 minutes. Turn
the power back ON.
c. Remove the batteries from the remote and wait for the remote
screen to clear. Within 30 seconds of replacing the batteries, use
UP or DOWN to scroll through the INQUIRY modes.
d. To enter the SERVICE mode for an applicable INQUIRY
mode, press ON/OFF for 2 seconds.
e. After SERVICE adjustments have been made, press ON/OFF
for 2 seconds to exit the SERVICE mode and return to the
INQUIRY mode.
f. Once operations in the INQUIRY mode are complete, press
ON/OFF and FAN SPEED for 2 seconds to exit. All buttons
on the remote controller are disabled for 60 seconds
g. To ensure changes are locked, power down the outdoor unit for
three (3) minutes after all the service mode changes are made.
 
It didn't have an issue cooling this summer and although I see no signs of a damp or oily area on anything I can get to, including the most common leaks of the flare connection, I'm thinking check the pressure (only thing found online is ~400psi in heating) and if it seems unreasonably low, get down to spraying everything with soapy water.
Try putting it in cool mode and with a temp gun check the output air. Dont just go adding refridgerant because someone said "the most common problem is low refridgerant" that's a great way to cause more problems. I would even connect gauges up just yet. If you dont have a temp gun or a set of gauges just call a repairman. How did you vacuum the system down when you installed it?
 
Try putting it in cool mode and with a temp gun check the output air. Dont just go adding refridgerant because someone said "the most common problem is low refridgerant" that's a great way to cause more problems. I would even connect gauges up just yet. If you dont have a temp gun or a set of gauges just call a repairman. How did you vacuum the system down when you installed it?
xxx
1764714734189.png
 

diy solar

diy solar

diy solar
Back
Top