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Flexible buss bars and frequent re-torquing

Skypower

Solar Wizard
Joined
Aug 23, 2021
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I’m retiring my 2P busses/jumpers (32 cells) and going back to a diagonal #2 cables jumpers for 2 banks. The 2P jumpers I’ve been using 1” wide braid, 4 ply, fixture soldered and the contact area was embossed with 10,000 pounds of force( see photo). Despite this effort, it required regular re-torquing, especially initially. 6 months later, a monthly checks revealed a few still had an almost imperceptible movement when torquing. I don’t believe that this is acceptable because it should be a set and forget like the solid buss or lugs are. The Daly is acting up so going to two JK bms’s also instigated the decision. This got me to thinking about the guys that are running those laminated flexible buss bars with the orange middle(see picture). Those have a slot, somewhat wider than needed to clear a 6mm fastener. Add to that the small contact area of a welded stud, makes me wonder about the copper flowing with time. I’d like to get some feedback from users of those if they have checked the torque! I hope so!

From what I’ve seen, I’m pretty much believe there’s only two ways to connect cells to not stress cell terminals though thousands of cycles. If you are not compressed, you can use a solid buss if you have a little gap between the cells. If you are compressed, the fixture shouldn’t be rigid, but measured spring tension to allow for expansion. I could imagine that the internal cell pressures could be enormous with high SOC & warmer temperatures with a non yielding fixture. The growth with cycles is surprising, approximately 3/16” for a 8 cell module(squeeze box) or .025” per center to center of terminals. (See Misaligned dots at full SOC and warm in photos) Because of this movement, a flexible jumpers would be desirable. The fixture spring pressure exerted on the cells is 550lbs (10psi). There’s a .040” silicone sheet between cells and the deformation of this with 10 psi is minimal. Four modules with 8 cells each, two modules for 48 volt battery (2 batteries)
 

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Tinned cable ends cold-flowing or creeping under pressure is pretty well known issue for at least last 50 years.
Copper stack like the orange busbars should have lot less tendendy to creep as there is less solder.
 
Tinned cable ends cold-flowing or creeping under pressure is pretty well known issue for at least last 50 years. Forbidden by code at least in here.
Copper stack like the orange busbars should have lot less tendendy to creep as there is less solder.
 
Where do we get those flexible busbars with the orange shrink wrap?
So is it correct to say that if compressing these cells, flexible busbars should be used to allow for expansion. Is it also correct to say that if not compressing, solid busbars (the ones that come with the cells) can be used as long as there’s space between the cells so one cell doesn’t push on the others?
 
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You can find those orange buss bars at eelbattery.com they have them in two types. Two hole and four hole (2P). I just don’t know if they are a good idea if they crush and loosen=fire. Need people that have them to let us know.
Your conclusion about buss bars is what I’m thinking.
 
Tinned cable ends cold-flowing or creeping under pressure is pretty well known issue for at least last 50 years.
Copper stack like the orange busbars should have lot less tendendy to creep as there is less solder.

I’d sure like to get some feedback from users on those, especially on welded stud types. I miss the wide threaded hole type. I never had a problem. Just never over torqued them.
 
I posted in another thread about those kinked "flexible" busbars. I very briefly had my hands on one and I could not get it to noticeably move by hand in the X or Y axis, although it did have some give in the Z axis (which is pretty useless). I question how much give they truly have. I also offered to test tensile strength/movement in the lab if someone wanted to send me one.
 
You can find those orange buss bars at eelbattery.com they have them in two types. Two hole and four hole (2P). I just don’t know if they are a good idea if they crush and loosen=fire. Need people that have them to let us know.
Your conclusion about buss bars is what I’m thinking.

I'm using these (different source) quite successfully in my build (link in sig -- see the most recent posts).
 
I posted in another thread about those kinked "flexible" busbars. I very briefly had my hands on one and I could not get it to noticeably move by hand in the X or Y axis, although it did have some give in the Z axis (which is pretty useless). I question how much give they truly have. I also offered to test tensile strength/movement in the lab if someone wanted to send me one.
I have seen kinked busbars that were actually solid one piece construction and the ones that are made of stack of thin copper strips bundled together.
What variety you had in your hands?
 
Max allowable lateral terminal force on LF280K is in the vicinity of 150lbf.
You won't move that in a bare hands test of a bus bar.
 
I have seen kinked busbars that were actually solid one piece construction and the ones that are made of stack of thin copper strips bundled together.
What variety you had in your hands?
The bar I saw was solid and had the kink pressed into it. The stack of thin strips sounds like it would offer far more flexibility. The question I have is, how do you know what/which you're actually getting from China???
 
Max allowable lateral terminal force on LF280K is in the vicinity of 150lbf.
You won't move that in a bare hands test of a bus bar.
That might be the max allowable but people are describing their busbar nuts screws needing to be re torqued from less than the max allowable. Which is why flexible busbars are being recommended
 
The bar I saw was solid and had the kink pressed into it. The stack of thin strips sounds like it would offer far more flexibility. The question I have is, how do you know what/which you're actually getting from China???
Several have shared links for the thin strip busbars. I am asking Amy how much these cost. Probably what I will get. I know they are not nickel plated, however my setup is inside and is climate controlled. I’ll use no-ox.
 

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You can also use belleville washers between the nut and busbar to maintain a relatively constant force even if the busbar creeps. You'd still need to check it from time to time, but you would need to do it far less frequently than with the current setup.
 
You can also use belleville washers between the nut and busbar to maintain a relatively constant force even if the busbar creeps. You'd still need to check it from time to time, but you would need to do it far less frequently than with the current setup.

I’ve got those in stainless and they work pretty good if you got enough thread on the welded stud. On some batteries, the solid buss (standard) will work, but only if you drill and tap the center of the buss for balance leads. Even with that the stud is below flush with the nut.
I actually hate the welded stud design.
 
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