Fridge won't start at night

[Checkthisout]

I don't think it would be a ground fault... I have a 3ft stake into the ground sheltered from the elements with a 6 ft wire connected directly to the charge controller and the inverter. Plus it runs fine from about 10:00 to dusk. Have I done enough to rule out ground fault?

Sorry I don't know the specs for your model.

If it doesn't have GFCI protection then it's definitely not that. Do you have an Amazon or Ebay link showing your exact model or a link to the manual?

If it's not a ground fault then it's faulting for low voltage as you have obviously been chasing. The voltage when battery voltage is higher makes it operate ok for the load but then it trips at night after you have heated the cabin a bit which increases the starting torque required and this increases amp draw etc and of course you no longer have 14.4 volts but maybe 12.8 or lower available.

Going to guess it's just an overly sensitive inverter due to it being cheap.

The inverter I chose could start a beam saw off less than a single group 27 battery even after it started to go below 12 volts.

 

[hfraser]

https://www.amazon.ca/WZRELB-Inverter-Remote-Control-Switch/dp/B07ST4MQTL/ref=dp_prsubs_1?pd_rd_i=B07ST4MQTL&psc=1

 

[hfraser]

Of course mine is the 24V version.

 

[Checkthisout]

Of course mine is the 24V version.

It says it has ground fault protection.

Does the unit have a way indicating which type of fault caused it to trip?

 

[Checkthisout]

https://www.amazon.ca/WZRELB-Inverter-Remote-Control-Switch/dp/B07ST4MQTL/ref=dp_prsubs_1?pd_rd_i=B07ST4MQTL&psc=1

So conflicting info. They say gfci in one area but then the manual and other literature don't indicate it as feature.

To verify when it cuts off you get:

Red light lit. Alarm on. No ac output.

That's how it indicates low input voltage.

 

[hfraser]

It says it has ground fault protection.

Does the unit have a way indicating which type of fault caused it to trip?

No. But the confusing thing is it only trips at night when there's no power generated by the panels. Both the inverter and the charge controller have grounding connectors on them that are connected to a common wire about 6ft long that goes to a stake pounded about 3ft into the ground, if that helps.

 

[hfraser]

So conflicting info. They say gfci in one area but then the manual and other literature don't indicate it as feature.

To verify when it cuts off you get:

Red light lit. Alarm on. No ac output.

That's how it indicates low input voltage.

Ok. That's what I'm seeing. Is it reasonable that with the 4 fully charged balanced batteries and the 3.5ft 2/0 cables from the batteries to the inverter, I shouldn't be seeing a low input voltage?

 

[Checkthisout]

Ok. That's what I'm seeing. Is it reasonable that with the 4 fully charged balanced batteries and the 3.5ft 2/0 cables from the batteries to the inverter, I shouldn't be seeing a low input voltage?

Yes I would say that sounds fine.

This thread is old and I'm not going to re-read but verify the input voltage at fridge start with a quality (fluke etc) voltmeter to make sure it's not something silly like a bad crimp or loose connection etc.

 

[hfraser]

Yes I would say that sounds fine.

This thread is old and I'm not going to re-read but verify the input voltage at fridge start with a quality (fluke etc) voltmeter to make sure it's not something silly like a bad crimp or loose connection etc.

Will do. Thanks.

 

[hfraser]

This summer was attempt #3 at getting the fridge to work. The solution was to replace the inverter with a Victron 24/1200 inverter. I did give the old one one last try with predictable results. The Victron is now on day 3 with absolutely to issues. It appears to better handle the inductive load when the compressor starts.

Thanks for all the help. While the Victron is a significantly more expensive solution (almost triple the price), it's clearly a better product.

 

[NuraMustafa]

Thank for sharing.