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diy solar

diy solar

Fuse vs breaker

That bare bus bar floating out there with the breakers hanging off is giving me the willies.

He'll grab it only once. :)

My initial purchase of Class T fuses case from Mouser.com. They almost always have a good inventory of popular items. The depth of their product lines is impressive. My second wave of Class T purchases came from <gasp> Amazon. I stick to Littelfuse (<- correct spelling) for the fuses that matter, which is most of them.

I have Class T, MEGA and CNN fuses in my system. That's the big fuses on the 48 volt sides. I'm using a couple of MRBF on the lower amp 48 volt and 12 volt side. I also have the typical automotive fuses for the a couple of minor 12 volt circuits.
 
Years ago my house had a fuse panel, which was upgraded to a breaker panel. Any reason to use fuses for batteries over breakers?
Generally Fuses are better at protecting things.
They work once.

Breakers are less accurate when they open, and have to work over and over again.
They do but they age you need to be aware of that
 
Sure, I use a Jean-Muller disconnector with NH-00 class fuses...

but other makes are available, - I linked to a few in this posting:-
Why not take orders and ship them to us in the USA? :) I believe I found the spec sheet but it isn't clear what the DC breaking capacity of them are?
 
Its a reputable brand.
I've seen Muller products, mostly on Swedish made equipment.
Not common I must admit.
(y) it's a German brand... which is where NH class fuses were invented, so you'd hope they know what they are doing :)
 
(y) it's a German brand... which is where NH class fuses were invented, so you'd hope they know what they are doing :)
I am well aware.
Germans love to engineer a level and complexity into things that sometimes makes them more reliable but harder to service.
Sometimes You need to step back and understand what you need VS what you want or what you are trying to project by doing something one way or another.

This is a very common Redspot brand fuse holder I use a lot.
They can be fused up to 200 amps and hatt made them common in my industry back in the day was the fact you could reach and and touch any part of it and not get a shock.
This was a very nice feature in the open panel board days when I would be faced with rows of open wiring and components.
Most home brew solar installations seem to be wired the way we did back decades ago and I like the idea of simple easy disconnect means and protection.
1732716784963.jpeg
Your choices for your own reasons...
 
I am well aware.
Germans love to engineer a level and complexity into things that sometimes makes them more reliable but harder to service.
Sometimes You need to step back and understand what you need VS what you want or what you are trying to project by doing something one way or another.

This is a very common Redspot brand fuse holder I use a lot.
They can be fused up to 200 amps and hatt made them common in my industry back in the day was the fact you could reach and and touch any part of it and not get a shock.
This was a very nice feature in the open panel board days when I would be faced with rows of open wiring and components.
Most home brew solar installations seem to be wired the way we did back decades ago and I like the idea of simple easy disconnect means and protection.
View attachment 258962
Your choices for your own reasons...


Link to that? and what type fuse it holds?
 
Link to that? and what type fuse it holds?
Depends what you order.
T, J, FES....
I use a lot of FES HRC-II fuses.
I don't think these are Common in the USA
They are a British standard BS88.
1732738037687.webp
Great little fuses, made for short circuit interrupt, they are fast, with a DC rating.
About 90% of fuses in the style of holder I showed are an FES.
They will bolt into a lot of Canadian and American made holders.
In other cases use a kit, I used a kit to put them in Allen Bradley starters.

This is one of those places where Canadian and American electrical equipment differed at one time.
Almost everything up here used CCL, Canadian Allen Bradley, Amalgamated electric, CEB....
Our stuff was designed to use a lot of BS spec fuses and American Fuses too.
My drawers are full of fuses I seldom think about.
 
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I have 4 of them in service with no problems. Never saw them used on car audio, class-t fuses for 12 volt are a total waste.
no they are not... when you have 12 optima's and multiple stiffening caps, class T is barely enough at times. imagine 3 alternators run with a hydraulic pump and motor setup and the alternators are in the back of the van next to the amps and subwoofers and each alternator is wired and setup for 450 amps of current at 14.7 volts.... trust me you could more than weld with my old demo car. One of my co-workers let the main gorund cable slip and a piece of 4 aught cable exploded. it did nto catch fire, it became the fuse and exploded showering him with molten copper.
 
no they are not... when you have 12 optima's and multiple stiffening caps, class T is barely enough at times. imagine 3 alternators run with a hydraulic pump and motor setup and the alternators are in the back of the van next to the amps and subwoofers and each alternator is wired and setup for 450 amps of current at 14.7 volts.... trust me you could more than weld with my old demo car. One of my co-workers let the main gorund cable slip and a piece of 4 aught cable exploded. it did nto catch fire, it became the fuse and exploded showering him with molten copper.
I stand corrected then. I’ve never seen a car system that extreme.
 
I stand corrected then. I’ve never seen a car system that extreme.
this was a demo car from the height of the car audio boom in the late 90's it won 4th place in Japan that year for sound quality and 3rd for SPL. it was a demo car for the shop i ran. a 1995 serran cargo van that was dropped custom painted, hand made ground effects and custom paint. According to the rules at the time it sat at the upper end of the 600 watt pro class. every amp was a high current orion amp from back when they were made in tempe arizona. they came form the factory with two 40 amp AGU fuses inside the case that we removed and replaced with straight copper slugs... fried a couple of them that year actually burnt the entire board so badly the Orion Japan rep took one back to the company and put the board in a display case to showcase my ability to destroy things. :ROFLMAO:
 
no they are not... when you have 12 optima's and multiple stiffening caps, class T is barely enough at times. imagine 3 alternators run with a hydraulic pump and motor setup and the alternators are in the back of the van next to the amps and subwoofers and each alternator is wired and setup for 450 amps of current at 14.7 volts.... trust me you could more than weld with my old demo car. One of my co-workers let the main gorund cable slip and a piece of 4 aught cable exploded. it did nto catch fire, it became the fuse and exploded showering him with molten copper.
Thus forever branding him with the name "Pretty boy"
 

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