OK...... to each their own opinion. We can agree to disagree.I disagree. A fuse sized to protect the wire is the largest fuse with ampere rating under the wires ampacity. In our mobile, limited power, dc systems voltage drop is a very real issue that must be considered. Even across fuses as well as connection points and wire resistance. If I have a 2/0awg that can dead short over 300 amperes with out overheating there is no reason to fuse that wire at lower amperes.
re: wire gauges - I have finally learned the big end of wire gauges and am so relieved to be rid of this confusion! 2AWG, 0AWG, 00AWG, etc. I kept seeing 2/0 and thought it was the same as 2AWG!
re: fusing - I thought that the range of possibilities was from 'possible load' on the low end to 'cable will melt and/or catch fire' on the high end. Common sense says the fuse size should be somewhere in this range.
My first thought would be to size it about halfway between nuisance tripping and melting.
In my case my average load is 5-10 amps DC (per battery monitior), high end would be 100 amps when running blender (900w AC, 82.8amps DC according to online calculator). So having a 125amp ANC fuse on the 2AWG cable from my battery seems fine, but if it blew a few times I'd go for 150 or 200. Sound about right?
1/0 might be sufficient, it depends on length. All circuits need to be run thru a calculator if they are critical and high load such as an inverter. A light bulb that is LED wouldn't be high load, it wouldn't be necessary.Related note - am now officially doubtful if all my big cables are 2AWG vs. 2/0 - need to check this today!
I didn't have room in the drawing for the portable wireless electricity generator tower They were mainly in there to represent space where I am unable to place anything on the wall (too close) - there are 2 sets in serial which are then paralleled together.What magic allows the two batteries to connect? Have you solved Tesla's wireless transfer of electricity?
I'm going to have SB50 connectors, max of 35v or so. I was thinking I wouldn't need anything else. Guess I'd have to lay the panels face down to be safe. Or get another switchA disconnect on the portable PV should be included. When I have to pack up my ground deployed PV during the day, I first flip my circuit breaker on the input side of the solar charge controller. Then I disconnect the MC4 connectors. Necessary? I dunno, but at upwards of 80v, it's safer.
We spend as little time as possible connected to shore powerNot that I'm trying to bust your budget, but now is the time to put in a hard wired EMS. If you spend a lot of time connected to different shore power pedestals, an EMS is highly recommended.
I have the portable version of the above EMS.
I am aware of the issues involved, and we've connected to a few sketchy hookups here and there. But I haven't yet been able to overcome the cost/benefit issue. I should, but probably won'tNever mind then. I'm in the same boat, so the portable unit stays home most of the time.
Related note - am now officially doubtful if all my big cables are 2AWG vs. 2/0 - need to check this today!
I don't see anything with a larger draw than his inverter. The ANL fuse next to the battery should be sized to what the inverter manufacturer recommends, protecting his inverter wires. The smaller devices need their own fuses. I have a 250a T fuse next to the battery, a 30 amp fuse for the solar controller, and Escapes circuit breaker for the WFCO. However we ass u me the ANL sizing next to the battery matches his inverter draw.Fuses protect the wires. You haven't protected the wire to the inverter.