“In early February, UVM first-year Connor Gage was found dead in Burlington. He attended two frat parties on the night of his death and died of hypothermia and acute alcohol intoxication. UVM is still investigating the two frats he visited.”Just a quick Google
"Sub-zero temps may have contributed to UVM student's death."
Cold temperatures are suspected as the cause of death for one University of Vermont student. Connor Gage's death is not the first of its kind.www.burlingtonfreepress.com
"BURLINGTON, Vt. (AP) — The Vermont Health Department says a fourth person has died in connection with last week’s heat wave."
Cold wasn’t what killed him.
I understand your point.sure if I looked hard enough I can find people who died from the cold.
I assume you meant no electric chainsaws that can handle a pine, let alone oak…I live in Grizzly Flats ... one of the few houses still remaining after the Caldor Fire. Electricity has been shut off up here several times due to winds and we lose power often in the winter. It was out for 10 days straight one winter. Average seems to be about three days. I heat the house with wood, so need my chainsaw and log splitter. There are no chainsaws out there I am aware of that can handle a pine tree, let alone an oak. Electric splitters? They suck. I'll replace my equipment in Oregon if I need to. Meanwhile, I've got a propane generator, a hillbilly solar system to keep the fridge running, and am working on a steam engine powered generator project. Self-reliance. I don't trust anyone to take care of me.
but my take was -power out or not- people in cold regions don’t generally die from the cold.
And that brings us to the grid and the accusations that it should have been better prepared. Of course that is what will always be said anytime there is some natural disaster. But just like with the snow removal equipment, I can't see spending billions for a fluke event (that never lasts long). I personally would rather be without power for 3 days, than be paying twice what I do for electricity. Like I said, it was back up to 70 degrees on the fourth day. The ice and snow melted, and everything (here) was back to normal.
Yes ... I was speaking of electric chainsaws. Haven't seen the models you speak of out here in CA. Like most things, if they work, they are probably banned. I tried an Echo and a Husky. Neither were worth the plastic they were made of.I assume you meant no electric chainsaws that can handle a pine, let alone oak…
If so, I use the kobalt 80V chainsaw 18” blade, and it handles the pine, walnut, tulip poplar, and oak in my yard without complaint. Reviews I have seen say the Milwaukee M18 chainsaw is tougher, and longer lasting… but too pricy for my needs even though I already use a ton of M18 tools…
Is there a Lowe’s hardware by you? Lowe’s sells the Kobalt. Milwaukee can be purchased from Amazon, or eBay if the Home Depot doesn’t have it… they are also sold at Northern Tool, and most electrical supply companies sell them.Yes ... I was speaking of electric chainsaws. Haven't seen the models you speak of out here in CA. Like most things, if they work, they are probably banned. I tried an Echo and a Husky. Neither were worth the plastic they were made of.
That is for sure! I have a 1500W inverter in the truck that powers my chargers, so my batteries are kept up. I have 2 80V kobalts, and 6 or so large Milwaukee and a dozen small Milwaukee batteries in there. No comparison to a gas can and a day of cutting trees…Grizzly Flats is in the middle of nowhere. Home Despot is the closest big box store, and we have a True Value that is closer, so we never make it to the Lowes that is about 2 hours away. Appreciate the tips, but I know my gas powered saws and have all the stuff I need to keep them running. Not sure I'd be able to spend a day harvesting wood with a battery powered set up, unless I had a bunch of batteries and perhaps a charger to take into the field.
Yeah, that’s why I went with the kobalt saw, I already had the kobalt weed eater that takes the ryobi attachments, I have the pole saws, and leaf blower, and tiller, and a few other attachments.I'm using the 40V chainsaw from Harbor Freight for trimming. It has worked pretty well, but just small soft stuff. The 80V wasn't yet offered.
The 40V pole saw is slow (slower than the chain saw) but I find it useful for what it does.
These haven't broken yet, are newer than other plug-in electric saws I used until they broke.
Lots of plastic crap these days. I used to see it only in cheaper tools (40 to 45 years ago when I had a job doing repairs at a rental shop). The better brands had metal frames holding bearings and gears. I still have my Milwaukee and Bosch from back then.
If you have the money to spare, a cordless chainsaw could be useful for quick trims. With two batteries, might keep up with moderate workload.
Of course, if you use gas tools regularly then are more reliable. Lots of my stuff gums up with infrequent use, although some (Onan on a trencher, Briggs on a tiller) start up after years of disuse.
Harbor Freight buys their top quality tools from the same factories that supply our competitors. We cut out the middleman and pass the savings to you!www.harborfreight.com
Even if the power had stayed on, the rates went through the roof.
And guess who gets to pay those bills? Yep, YOU.
This here. It was a custom power plan rate people could sign up for. Everyone who was on a normal fixed rate plan, did not have the bill go up.Nope, not for everyone. The issue with the jacked up rates rates was those who signed up for cheap plans that flow with the market price. Those people took a gamble and came out on the loosing end.