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GENERATOR BREAK IN, FOR LONG ENGINE LIFE

Snowynorth

New Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2022
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217
Break in and easy maintenance taught to me by a small engine tech.
This works for virtually all small engines.
(Small engines come with metal shards inside right from the factory, a magnet is a must)
Keeping those shards from circulating, could increase engine life by many times.

The tech told me to run all of my small engines with an ounce or 2 less than the manual states.
(There is always some oil left when draining, and over filling is harmful to the engine)

Materials needed.
Marvel Mystery oil.
Carb Cleaner
Syringes, Auto parts stores should carry them. (If in Canada Princess Auto sells them)
Enough Quality Brand Dino oil for 4 oil changes,
A Jug of full synthetic
Empty jug for used oil
Keep your small oil containers, or buy 4-5 plastic bottles with measurements (I bought 4 at the dollar store)
A measuring funnel.
Magnetic dip stick, or a good magnet. To be place on a bolt through the oil reservoir as close to the drain as possible.
Extra spark plug ( I use NGK equivalent to factory plug. Make sure you cross reference)
Spark plug gapper.
Oil drain valve and hose if your gen only has a drain plug.. Mine is a M10-1.25 thread, yours could be different.
Clip board and paper.

BEFORE STARTING THE ENGINE
Note: Always drain engine oil when hot.

1) Pull the oil plug and install, the drain valve and hose. Yours might be supplied.
2) Using measurement funnel Add oil. (**2-3 oz less than manual states**)
3) Pull the spark plug, Check the gap. (My last Gen, spark plug came way over owner manual spec)
4) Gap NGK plug, (and keep the Torch Plug that comes with the Gen for back up)
5) Use the syringe to add about an ounce, or less of Marvel down the spark plug hole(s).
6) Put the spark plug back in hand snug. (Don't connect the wire) and let it sit for 5-10 minutes.
7) If you have pull start, pull it "very slow" about 10 times.
7a) If you don't have pull start. Turn over engine a few cranks (Without spark plug wire connected.) let it sit for a few minutes.
8) Repeat 5-7a, and let it sit for 10 minutes.
Most of the oil in the cylinder should have drained into the oil reservoir by then, topping it up.
9) Pull the plug and clean with carb cleaner, then reinstall and hook up the wire.

BREAK IN. USE DINO OIL NOT SYNTHETIC.

1) Start the engine and run for 15-20 minutes with no load turning eco mode on and off if you have
(it might smoke some, let it run for a few minutes, then pull and clean the spark plug if you need to)
(DURING BREAK IN AND REGULAR USE I ALWAYS PULL AND CLEAN THE PLUG, AND CHECK THE SPARK ARRESTOR ON EACH OIL CHANGE)
2) Remove the magnetic dip stick first to get good flow, and drain. (if you use a magnet remove it as soon as oil starts flowing.
3) Fill oil, a couple OZ under owner manual requirements.
4) Run for 30 minutes with small load on and off, turning eco mode on and off.
5) Drain, and refill.
6) Run for 45 minutes, with a 50% +- varying load off and on, and eco mode off and on. Change it up some.
7) Drain, and refill.
8) Repeat 6) for 60 to 90 minutes.
9) Drain and fill
10) Repeat, for 8 hours USING FULL SYNTHETIC. (It does not need to run all at one time) You could use your Gen.
11) Drain and fill with recommended ie: 5/30 full synthetic
12) Run regularly, checking oil level, and cleaning your magnetic dipstick a couple times between each oil change.

I always reduce the recommended oil change intervals, for regular use, and high load use.
That's where the clip board and paper come in.

Here and there I have always added a bit of the marvel, or seafoam to the gas.
Switching to 100% propane, I won't be able to.

I always fill oil with pre filled bottles a bit less than recommended oil amount. (It is quicker and easier)
There is always oil left in the reservoir after draining, and overfill can ruin the engine.

Important Warning: Some on Amazon have reported the magnet falling off a dipstick into the oil reservoir, and a pain in the butt to fish them out.
I think some suppliers are using a cheap glue, that breaks down in oil.
To mitigate that, I left my magnetic dip stick, in a little plastic jar, with an oil/gas mixture for 2 weeks, I would take it out every day or 2, wipe it off, and tap it on something, and pick up a wrench with it and shake it a bit. Mine works great and the magnet is strong.
If it had come loose, there is oil proof epoxy, and I would have used it, and let it cure.
I won't go with out a magnet for metal shards. Every time I check mine there is something metallic on it.

I have had great results with the 6 Generators I've owned, and used at our rec property/hobby farm.
I sold everyone of my old ones when I changed, (except one that was stolen) all running great with a huge pile of hours on them.
 

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Last edited:
That's a really good write-up. Nice work. Two alternatives to consider:
  1. For the magnetic drain plug I've used epoxy to attach two rare earth magnets to the end of the stock dipstick. I often have a few rare-earth magnets on hand and they're cheaper than the pre-made dipsticks.
  2. I find the drain plugs on generators to be low to the ground so my body gets a bit grumpy bending over and it can be challenging to get a catch basin below the drain even with a hose. My preferred method at this time is to use an extraction pump to suck the oil out of the fill opening. $12 - $15 from the usual suspects. I have a 200 cc unit but have thought of getting a 1 liter pump which would require about 1 extraction v 5. The pump I have is a dedicated part of the kit.

Image.jpg
 
That's a really good write-up. Nice work. Two alternatives to consider:
  1. For the magnetic drain plug I've used epoxy to attach two rare earth magnets to the end of the stock dipstick. I often have a few rare-earth magnets on hand and they're cheaper than the pre-made dipsticks.
  2. I find the drain plugs on generators to be low to the ground so my body gets a bit grumpy bending over and it can be challenging to get a catch basin below the drain even with a hose. My preferred method at this time is to use an extraction pump to suck the oil out of the fill opening. $12 - $15 from the usual suspects. I have a 200 cc unit but have thought of getting a 1 liter pump which would require about 1 extraction v 5. The pump I have is a dedicated part of the kit.

View attachment 275233
I use magnetic plugs on my vehicles, and tractor, and quick drains and magnets on lawn tractor, snow blower, and generator.
The differentials, and transmission on my truck have them too. LOL
If people realized how cheap and anti break down beneficial they are, I think they would be used a lot more.

A Tip on oil.
A mechanic I know checked formulation numbers and found that in Canada, Shell makes Motomaster (Canadian Tire), Penzoil, and Quaker State oil to the same specs as their own. It may or may not have changed since he told me.
I buy the premium synthetic that's on sale, because I change oil religiously, and it's all good oil.
It's much cheaper and a lot less hassle than a break down.

I put my smaller generator on my tail gate, or my picnic table seat, to drain, as seen by the hose in my pics.
When I decide which bigger propane solar back up generator, it will be elevated about 18" off the floor, and secured so it doesn't move, with an exhaust kit, inside the same heated, and insulated shed that the inverter and battery will be in.
 

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