Getting By Without A Soldering Iron?

[aaron_c]

As I've probably said many times by now, I'm about to install the electronics on a cargo trailer conversion. I'm looking into what tools I need to get. And surprisingly, it seems like I *might* not need a soldering iron. But I can't quite tell. Some explanation:

Since I'm on the road, don't have a workshop (or extra space to store stuff) and really don't have any immediate plans to continue doing electronics-type stuff once I've finished this (other than repair stuff to my own trailer), I'm not keen to buy tools I won't use.

On the DC side, my large wires will all be bought a la carte, complete with the crimp connectors that I'll install on them. So I'll be cutting, stripping, crimping, and heat-shrinking those wires/lugs but I won't be soldering them. My smaller wires will be bought in long rolls, but I'll also be using crimp connectors to connect with stuff.

So that leaves the AC wires. In theory, I guess I could use crimp connectors for them too, but I'm not clear if the hardware supports ring connectors. Does anyone know?

The AC hardware I'd be using would be:

Regular-ass Breaker
GFCI Breaker
Samlex EVO 2224 Inverter/Charger (2200 w)
Male Receptacle to hook up to shore power
Regular-ass 20A 120V Female Receptacle

Since a good soldering iron costs almost $100 I'd prefer to go without if I can do the job well with ring connectors. Can this be done? Do I have to look for specific receptacles or breakers or such?

 

[gnubie]

If you dig into your area's electrical regulations you'll likely find that it is not permissible to solder your mains wiring anyway, just in case this was something you had considered.

There are various reasons for this, mechanical stability of solder under temperature and pressure, the tendancy of solder to wick along conductors etc. This post may well set off a frothing at the mouth 'discussion' but you should always be using screw terminals, clamps, crimps etc in premises mains wiring. In some countries you aren't even supposed to use screw based things in joints that aren't readily accessible instead you need to use rated crimps or sprung connections that can't work their way loose under heat / cool cycling.

The terminal strip on your Samlex is intended to have bare wire inserted. You can get ferules to crimp over the end of unruly multistrand wires but you have to make sure that the ferule you use is the right shape for the terminal. The wrong shape / outside diameter of ferule will actually reduce the contact area and you don't want that where you are carrying amps.

 

[Steve_S]

As far as main battery cables & AC Wiring etc, those don't get soldered. NEVER !
As for the smaller gauge wires like the 14g you can certainly use Crimped Connections BUT use only quality tinned conectors and sealing heat-shrink over te connection @ the wire.

With your Samlex Inverter, you most likely received a set of ferrules to slip over the wire, I got quite the selection with my EVO-4024, including ferrules for the AC wires. Be sure you use the correct sized ferrule for the wire !

BTW: a Simple 30W stick soldering iron can be had for < $10 (not pro grade) or something you'd want to use to make a living with but for basic occasional use that would be fine. HERE for $5.99 USD https://www.harborfreight.com/elect...30-watt-lightweight-soldering-iron-69060.html

 

[aaron_c]

Hah, thanks yall, shows what I know!

OK, I feel better about not ordering a soldering iron. I think I know all the bits I need to be ordering now...exciting that it's starting to come together!

 

[Zil]

I have built 7 vans. I did not use any solder on wires.

 

[Bob B]

You may not have a need to solder for your installation, but it IS very handy to have a soldering iron. The only thing I have soldered so far is some extension wires for my BMS wires. I decided to twist them together, solder and heat shrink instead of doing a crimp butt connector.
I bought a small butane soldering iron years ago, and that has become my go to for soldering. It is extremely handy. Use it anywhere ... no power required and it can be refilled.
The one I have I bought years ago at Radio Shack. I kinda expected it to develop leaks ... but it still works very well and doesn't leak. I can leave it sit for a year .... pick it up and still working fine.
The one I have looks a little like this one but I couldn't find the one I have.

NEW 12 in 1 Multi-Functional Butane Gas Soldering Iron/ Heat Gun/ Blow Torch Kit | eBay

If there is no filling or gas blasting, this may be why (the type of filling camping stove does not tighten the catalyst if it is not bright; it can be done easily by removing the lock nut and ensuring that the catalyst is fastened with fingers. ).

www.ebay.com

 

[LB3]

ABYC standards are basically the gold standard for mobile applications and they don’t permit soldering. It’s never needed but can be handy in many applications.

 

[aaron_c]

ABYC standards are basically the gold standard for mobile applications and they don’t permit soldering. It’s never needed but can be handy in many applications.

Interesting, they don't allow soldering at all, or they don't allow soldering of connections in the 120V side of things?

 

[aaron_c]

The one I have looks a little like this one but I couldn't find the one I have.

Interesting. That looks pretty handy for a mobile application...

 

[LB3]

Interesting, they don't allow soldering at all, or they don't allow soldering of connections in the 120V side of things?

Yachts and RVs are subject to lots of vibrations so basically no solid core wiring is permitted on either the AC or DC sides of the power system since any cracks or micro fractures will increase resistance and the potential for a fire. Soldering can wick well past the wire termination and turn a stranded wire into a solid one. Only crimps are permitted (I can’t remember if I’ve read about any exceptions but solder is never for a primary wire termination.) Properly formed, a crimp connection is essentially a cold weld.