diy solar

diy solar

Goal Zero?

goodwillhinton

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Jun 12, 2020
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I know that this is a DIY forum but I am far from a DIYer. That said, this forum seems the most well informed place I have found to discuss solar generators.

I don't see a ton of mention about Goal Zero in this forum. Is that primarily due to cost or are there other concerns? I am considering getting a Yeti 1400 or the new replacement model that is supposed to come out this year.

I have a couple primary use cases:
  • Home power backup for power outages
  • Occasional camping trips off-grid
Any feedback is appreciated. Thanks!
 
Many people are going for the AC200 Bluetti for $1299 with more capacity and solar inputs and 2000 Watts inverter. Will's Youtube channel done reviews on it. If you want to go with Goal Zero 1400, that's not bad for what you want to use and you pay more for a solid reputable company.

You can read more on AC200 here: https://www.bluetti.com/products/bl...B5VMJtqum2uqtlJ-GwGaLt1Z5TIMFP0BoCwnYQAvD_BwE

Or view YouTubers reviews on AC200.

Here are some ideas what you can do for home backup from Todd Parker at YouTube with Goal Zero Yeti 1000, he wished for the Yeti 1400. You can apply the same ideas to any other solar generators.

 
GZ (or Jackery) are not perfect, expensive, but they works as aspected is you want a reliable plug'n'play solar power to go. Many other brands are labeled stuff and can be found on Alibaba under other names for less money.

The old Lithium-Yeti are not recommended, they are outdated. Inefficient PWM charge controller (fun fact: the very old lead acid Yeti have a PWM too, but with a very high efficiency), unregulated 12 V output, no USB-C.

Only the actual Yeti X series (200x, 500x, 1000x, 1500x, 3000x and the beast, 6000x) are up to date. The charge controller is a MPPT, very efficient, 12 V output is regulated (13,4 V) and USB-C PD (max 60 watts).
 
Goal Zero Yeti used to be good design when Lead Acid version is main stream. Their Lithium Yeti series is just sub today's standard compare to others such as Bluetti AC200P. The battery chemical their Lithium Yeti used is not that great and the MPPT has very limit voltage support.

The technical support is still good in US but not so great in other country.

They do still have variety of product but Goal Zero has lost in innovation part of the game some time ago.
 
The old Lithium-Yeti are not recommended, they are outdated. Inefficient PWM charge controller (fun fact: the very old lead acid Yeti have a PWM too, but with a very high efficiency), unregulated 12 V output, no USB-C.
Actually the AGM GZ 1250 had a built-in MPPT charge controller which accepted solar panels of 16-48V at 20A with a max charge output of 320W. If that wasn’t enough, an outboard MPPT could be attached to the rear Anderson 175 connector for a max input of 12V, 180A, limited to 2100W.

A massive off-board storage battery system could also be added, in the works for me is a home-based 5-6kW bank. I have a 120ah lifepo4 cell pack inside (~1720Wh @ 14.4V) the 1250 now for traveling along with a built-in regulated 12 DC section (simple $20 dc regulator module off of Amazon wired inside the unit) for the refrigerator. Plus the weight is about half when it had the lead acid battery, 50lbs vs. 103lbs (24lbs vs. 75lbs just in the battery).

The old lithium units of the same size capacity (1000 and 1400) with the optional MPPT module were limited to 15-22V solar panels and 25A for a total max of either 325W or 360W, brain fart on that... Anyway, it was a total step backwards by the GZ design team for putting in the PWM charge controller and forcing the consumer to purchase a MPPT module which wasn’t very good and then eliminating the large capacity rear Anderson connector...

The 1500X solves a lot of the input limitations that the old lithium based systems had, 600W max output on the MPPT charge controller. But GZ neutered the design by eliminating the LINK capability. The “old” 1250 doesn’t look too bad now in comparison since they can be found relatively cheap and can be easily modded.
 
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I have years of experience with GZ yeti 3000 (old version, non-x) It's been very reliable and easy to use.

That said, I tore out their hilariously embarrassingly weak solar charge controller and replaced it with Victron Blue Solar 150/30 and now it charges SO FAST! Just like Will did in this video:

It was expensive for the amount of storage, but I love it and it's a tank.
The old lithium units of the same size capacity (1000 and 1400) with the optional MPPT module were limited to 15-22V solar panels and 25A for a total max of either 325W or 360W, brain fart on that... Anyway, it was a total step backwards by the GZ design team for putting in the PWM charge controller and forcing the consumer to purchase a MPPT module which wasn’t very good and then eliminating the large capacity rear Anderson connector...
I have no idea why they sold $1000-3000 boxes that would get fried by a single 300W panel, but that's water down the way.

The victron MPPT on yeti has been a godsend.
 
I have years of experience with GZ yeti 3000 (old version, non-x) It's been very reliable and easy to use.

That said, I tore out their hilariously embarrassingly weak solar charge controller and replaced it with Victron Blue Solar 150/30 and now it charges SO FAST! Just like Will did in this video:

It was expensive for the amount of storage, but I love it and it's a tank.

I have no idea why they sold $1000-3000 boxes that would get fried by a single 300W panel, but that's water down the way.

The victron MPPT on yeti has been a godsend.
This is great to hear, thank you for sharing. I've just replaced my 1400 with an open box 3000. I'm hoping to do the same as you and wire in the victron MPPT. Did you follow the instructions from Will's video or make any of your own modifications? Did you use the "30 Amp External MPPT Kit" they offer?

I would appreciate hearing any additional details about your set up, thank you!
 
Hi Itsuo I remember buying the parts that Will suggested but had trouble with the connection.

What I ended up doing was using the battery raw connector from the pre existing Goal Zero MPPT module.

Procedure followed:

Unscrew GZ MPPT box. Gently lift.
Observe MicroUSB and DC battery raw connector.
Gently and carefully unplug both.
cut off the plus and minus wires going to the GZ MPPT.
Attach XT60 or something to the recently cut but unterminated ends, ensuring proper polarity.

Ensure proper Victron MPPT configuration eg without solar panels connected.

This is what mine looks like right now. It’s not connected to an MPPT, just trickle charging from a 60W AC->DC adapter. 1616608123147.jpeg
I like XT60 more but crimping the anderson power pole connector was easier that day so there you have it. Hopefully some of this is helpful.
1616609751574.jpeg
1616609781574.jpeg
 
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Hi Itsuo I remember buying the parts that Will suggested but had trouble with the connection.

What I ended up doing was using the battery raw connector from the pre existing Goal Zero MPPT module.

Procedure followed:

Unscrew GZ MPPT box. Gently lift.
Observe MicroUSB and DC battery raw connector.
Gently and carefully unplug both.
cut off the plus and minus wires going to the GZ MPPT.
Attach XT60 or something to the recently cut but unterminated ends, ensuring proper polarity.

Ensure proper Victron MPPT configuration eg without solar panels connected.

This is what mine looks like right now. It’s not connected to an MPPT, just trickle charging from a 60W AC->DC adapter. View attachment 42337
I like XT60 more but crimping the anderson power pole connector was easier that day so there you have it. Hopefully some of this is helpful.
View attachment 42340
View attachment 42341
This is great! Thank you!
 
Hi All,
Running a Sherpa 50 (lithium) and a Yeti 150 (SLA). Both run PWM circuits, currently looking at an MPPT mod as the yeti 150 circuitry is known for weakness........ Anyone managed to run MPPT circuit into these?
i can find lithium MPPT circuits but limited number are 11.1v (3S2P) as per sherpa battery layout and 12v for the SLA. wondering if i can bypass the yeti PWM and substitute MPPT into the mix. Any thoughts?
also looking for an li-ion / Lipo / LiFePo upgrade cell (seen on youtube for yeti 150) but thats another question for another day.
 
Actually the AGM GZ 1250 had a built-in MPPT charge controller which accepted solar panels of 16-48V at 20A with a max charge output of 320W. If that wasn’t enough, an outboard MPPT could be attached to the rear Anderson 175 connector for a max input of 12V, 180A, limited to 2100W.

A massive off-board storage battery system could also be added, in the works for me is a home-based 5-6kW bank. I have a 120ah lifepo4 cell pack inside (~1720Wh @ 14.4V) the 1250 now for traveling along with a built-in regulated 12 DC section (simple $20 dc regulator module off of Amazon wired inside the unit) for the refrigerator. Plus the weight is about half when it had the lead acid battery, 50lbs vs. 103lbs (24lbs vs. 75lbs just in the battery).

The old lithium units of the same size capacity (1000 and 1400) with the optional MPPT module were limited to 15-22V solar panels and 25A for a total max of either 325W or 360W, brain fart on that... Anyway, it was a total step backwards by the GZ design team for putting in the PWM charge controller and forcing the consumer to purchase a MPPT module which wasn’t very good and then eliminating the large capacity rear Anderson connector...

The 1500X solves a lot of the input limitations that the old lithium based systems had, 600W max output on the MPPT charge controller. But GZ neutered the design by eliminating the LINK capability. The “old” 1250 doesn’t look too bad now in comparison since they can be found relatively cheap and can be easily modded.
How did you wire in the DC regulator? I'd love to add this to my 1250 LiFePO project as it will primarily be running my 12V fridge.
 
Greetings all

First post to the forum: I have a GZ 1400 Lithium with Yeti Link integrating 3 Yeti Tanks @ 1.2 kwh each for a total of about 5 kwh. Goal zero offers an external 30A mppt kit that charges the system through the tail-end of the chain of tanks and is centered around a Victron SmartSolar 100|30 mppt charge controller. I'm considering going that route DIY with a different mppt controller, however...

The specs for the Yeti Tanks state 100ah @12V (1.2kwh) and sealed lead-acid AGM and that's about it other than what they weigh. Does anyone have the specs on the proper Absorption and Float voltages for the Yeti Tanks?

Apologies in advance for the novice question...

Steve
 
Hi Itsuo I remember buying the parts that Will suggested but had trouble with the connection.

What I ended up doing was using the battery raw connector from the pre existing Goal Zero MPPT module.

Procedure followed:

Unscrew GZ MPPT box. Gently lift.
Observe MicroUSB and DC battery raw connector.
Gently and carefully unplug both.
cut off the plus and minus wires going to the GZ MPPT.
Attach XT60 or something to the recently cut but unterminated ends, ensuring proper polarity.

Ensure proper Victron MPPT configuration eg without solar panels connected.

This is what mine looks like right now. It’s not connected to an MPPT, just trickle charging from a 60W AC->DC adapter. View attachment 42337
I like XT60 more but crimping the anderson power pole connector was easier that day so there you have it. Hopefully some of this is helpful.
View attachment 42340
View attachment 42341
Does the MPPT module actually need the micro USB connected to work as an MPPT or is this just comms to the older lithium units? I was mulling the idea of getting a MPPT unit and working it into my AGM yeti 400. If that fails in terms of dimensions I may look at offboard MPPT feeding the Anderson ports
 
I am currently reviewing an Anker Solix C1000 that has really nice features. Fast charging, six 110v outlets and can be expanded with another battery.

They will be on sale for the Nov 17 Black Friday sale on Amazon but not sure the price.
 
A new Yeti is out, the Yeti 4000 Pro. It looks nice, 4000 cycles, but I have no use for such big batteries. I prefer smaller units, they allows me a versatile parallel use. I think a new line of (smaller) LFP Yetis are not far away.
 
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