diy solar

diy solar

Ground Mount Help

This new position nearly doubled my PV production!!! With just 2x320W, I'm getting over 500W in peak sun now. I never made it over 300W with my temporary chair support setup. I still have other progress I'll be making in wiring that should boost the performance more (decreasing length and lowering gauge.) I could see 600W per string when this is complete.

I'll take my time before I build the 2nd and 3rd string mounts. I want to fine tune this so I have good blueprints. But, I'm loving the progress!
 
@erik.calco Start with the basics first, find out what angles work best for you, not only the average (used in fixed mount) but also what the optimal is in summer & winter so you know what the deal is if you want to use a tilt system.
Get a quick angle calculation here: http://www.solarelectricityhandbook.com/solar-angle-calculator.html

You mention potentially installing on a roof, so it's good to know what the roof pitch is relative to the degrees. For example 45 degrees = 12/12 pitch and that's a pretty steep roof to clamber around on.
Figure out angle to pitch here: https://www.blocklayer.com/pitchangle.aspx enter the angle an hit that button it will convert it to pitch. Note the numerous construction calculations on that site, very very handy to have. Keep in mind that if your doing a porch or pergola the correct angles may not be appropriate for the structure your thinking, therefore there will be compromises and that usually means over-paneling (cautiously to compensate) or other alternatives to get production up.

On a ground mount system, there have been some good tips here but I really feel I should point out something quite obvious which is a bugger.. Ensure your high enough and setup in a way that when you mow the grass, or weed whack that there is no way that flying debris hits the panels... Obvious yes but under-estimated as weed whackers can toss crap far, not to mention a mower.... One possible option in tough spots is to use a commercial grade landscape cloth covered with either gravel or a good mulch to reduce maintenance and pesky weeds, or plant something a low growing persistent ground cover.

Anchoring can be done in a variety of ways, planting PT posts to concrete blocks or poured posts. My own rack is built off the side of my 20' Sea Container with marine dock hinges at the top (originally planned to pivot but not practical in location) and the bottom is anchored to a 4x4 structure which used screw piles (they anchor up to 5500 lbs pull and twist in by hand using an 8' 4x4. https://pylex.com/en/products/10505-pylex-regular-black I have used these for 4x4 and the commercial 66 (for 6x6) https://pylex.com/en/products/10730-commercial-pylex-66-black All my wood work is brown Pressure Treated and so all the screws and attaching hardware is appropriately galvanised or stainless steel to prevent any corrosion and deterioration. The racking I used is made by Kinetic Solar (Rapid Rail) and is amazing stuff to work with and damned near foolproof and it provides a run for the panels wires as well... http://kineticsolar.com/racking/ Now in order to protect / isolate the Aluminium feet from the PT wood I got an old tire tube (commercial truck, so very thick) and cut 2"x2" squares and put them between the foot base & the lumber and used Stainless Steel Bolts to attach to the frame.

We have a lot of solar installations out here of every variety you can imagine (some truly creative ones too) but one thing I came across is several use a BigFoot concrete form to anchor their ground mount racks http://www.bigfootsystems.com/index.htm the most common being that form is below ground and only comes to 1' above grade which then has a heavy duty galvanised anchor for a wood structure similar to what is shown (BTW Simpson is top notch)
simpson_epb66.jpg
 
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