Ground mount with roof racking system able to pass permitting/inspection?

[Hedges]

Never occurred to me to use magnets to find rafters.... got a link to how? I know it seems simple but also seems like it would take strong magnets?

The little magnets from Harbor Freight weren't strong enough, so I got some from eBay.
With brackets attached to the clamps by screw, I stuck one magnet on each, both facing same way.
My rafters are expose in the attic. Pair of this clamps let me find both ends from outside.
Magnet only had to work through 1" of wood and roofing.

The cheap compass I got seems sticky, could be better ones. It did point toward magnets from several inches away.

https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/clamps-vises/spring-clamps/3-12-in-nylon-spring-clamp-69289.html

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Simpson-Strong-Tie-A21Z-Angle-Z-Max/1114951

6 Pack Super Strong Bar Magnets Heavy Duty, Large Flat Magnetic Strips, Powerful | eBay

Corrosion Resistant : Enhanced with a Ni+Cu+Ni triple layer coating, these magnets boast superior corrosion resistance for long-lasting performance. Handle with Care : Due to their high magnetic strength, these bar magnets require careful handling.

www.ebay.com

Car Compass Portable Outdoor Compass Ball Car Dashboard Ornament Automotive | eBay

It's perfect for car & truck dashboard installation with multi-applications. Easy to Work with: With this car compass, you can identify the direction and locate your position without any hassle. The angle of the compass can be adjusted freely to suit your preference and visibility.

www.ebay.com

 

[doc3g]

Do you trust screws into sheathing to hold in high wind?
Do you trust whatever is supposed to make it water-tight?

- The mounts are PE stamped to 180 mph and I'm definitely not in a high wind zone. Looking through the data for the past year the highest gusts was ~ 50 mph and the average high for a given month is in the 20's.
- The mounts are installed with Chemlink M1 sealant, which should last the life of the panels.
- I'm pretty super paranoid about water penetration, having went through a fiasco with our previous builder over mold issues, so I'll be monitoring the setup to ensure there aren't leak issues. I would do the same with any install system. I'm actually less paranoid about the TopSpeed system since it doesn't require me to pry up shingles and insert flashing everywhere.
- SnapNRack seems to have a solid track record, so I feel reasonably confident that their product should perform as advertised

What does the analog meter achieve? Prevents them from detecting an unpermitted grid tie or hybrid system?

- It keeps them from detecting minor backfeeds. The gist is that with an analog meter you could run parallel with the grid (a "grid assist" if you will) and the small amount of backfeed that could occur when a large load shuts down wouldn't be detected by an analog meter and hence you could operate without an interconnect agreement and the POCO wouldn't know it. Conversely, the smart meters apparently detect even miniscule amounts of backfeed. The other option is to do a double conversion with something like a chargeverter but there are energy losses and the cost of the chargeverter ($500).

 

[Hedges]

It is screws through shingles, and sealant on top of shingles, that concerns me.
Roofing normally works like overlapping scales, spills water even if there are gaps (such as tiles and shake have).
Adhesives might work for certain virgin surfaces, but sandy top of old shingles, I wouldn't bet on.

My flashing, I am concerned about having to pry up shingles that had bonded in the sun. Would rather be doing a new install together with re-roof.

My expectation with flashing was that I would just be slipping under loose flaps, but it didn't turn out that way. I also ran into some nails within 2" of edge, through an underlying layer of architectural or layered shingles.

 

[robbob2112]

- The mounts are PE stamped to 180 mph and I'm definitely not in a high wind zone. Looking through the data for the past year the highest gusts was ~ 50 mph and the average high for a given month is in the 20's.
- The mounts are installed with Chemlink M1 sealant, which should last the life of the panels.
- I'm pretty super paranoid about water penetration, having went through a fiasco with our previous builder over mold issues, so I'll be monitoring the setup to ensure there aren't leak issues. I would do the same with any install system. I'm actually less paranoid about the TopSpeed system since it doesn't require me to pry up shingles and insert flashing everywhere.
- SnapNRack seems to have a solid track record, so I feel reasonably confident that their product should perform as advertised


- It keeps them from detecting minor backfeeds. The gist is that with an analog meter you could run parallel with the grid (a "grid assist" if you will) and the small amount of backfeed that could occur when a large load shuts down wouldn't be detected by an analog meter and hence you could operate without an interconnect agreement and the POCO wouldn't know it. Conversely, the smart meters apparently detect even miniscule amounts of backfeed. The other option is to do a double conversion with something like a chargeverter but there are energy losses and the cost of the chargeverter ($500).

So, I have 20 years of weather station data - my highest wind clocked was 105mph and my highest snow total was 6.5ft - this converters to 33.8 PSF -- but the county will require me to build to the ASCE specs....


I haven't got the plans yet but some preleminary work on the roof mounting in my area - Looking on my county website and

ASCE Hazard Tool

Quickly retrieve site structural design parameters specified by ASCE 7-10, ASCE 7-16, and ASCE 7-20, including wind, seismic, snow, ice, rain, flood, tsunami, and tornado.

ascehazardtool.org

Shows I am in a high wind zone - max wind speed 172mph and max snow load around 126 PSF -

See this post for my stats
https://diysolarforum.com/threads/robbob2112-answer-thread.84402/post-1292764

This means two things -
For the roof supports instead of every other rafter I need them on every rafter - NO sheeting screws, all into rafters
I need 3 braces underneath to distribute the snow load.

so my mounts on the roof will cost 50% more than if they were in another area ... See this for the actual figures from asce

 

[doc3g]

It is screws through shingles, and sealant on top of shingles, that concerns me.
Roofing normally works like overlapping scales, spills water even if there are gaps (such as tiles and shake have).
Adhesives might work for certain virgin surfaces, but sandy top of old shingles, I wouldn't bet on.

My flashing, I am concerned about having to pry up shingles that had bonded in the sun. Would rather be doing a new install together with re-roof.

My expectation with flashing was that I would just be slipping under loose flaps, but it didn't turn out that way. I also ran into some nails within 2" of edge, through an underlying layer of architectural or layered shingles.

I think the point of the design is that the void is entirely filled with sealant, which is why the installation instructions state that it has to ooze out, or you did it wrong and have to start over. While the TopSpeed system is new, it is (afaik) the same setup as their speedseal feet, which appear to have an excellent track record when installed properly. Of course, There is some risk, but I think of profitable companies as (generally) rational actors. Thus, it makes more sense that they have engineered the product to perform as advertised rather than trying to make a quick buck by putting out a poorly engineered mount destined to fail. If it leaks, I'll have to re-evaluate my life choices, lol.

 

[Sard]

FWIW...

Im adding a 16kw ground mount and will be using a ProSolar ground mount system

Id used them 14 years ago and found it robust and simple. You look at IronRidge, others and it seems like a combination of being massively over-engineered AND designed to avoid patent infringement. They have a website.

It is a simple system.. you buy 1/5" sched 40 galv steel pipe from a plumbing supply (not 2 or 3" iron ridge wants)
Drop them into concrete piers. (Not the insane 24" dia and 48" deep you get from iron ridge.... ProSolar uses 18"and 30"deep)
The top and bottom rail are held with simple Hollaender Tees ($13). Then you have 172" long mounting rails that are held to the top and bottom pipe with a simple U bolt. Then panel clamps, which are self grounding.

They have engineering reports available, and have proscriptive, engineered designs you can use. (You just need one 'section' to be tested and approved, string them together. AT least here for my PITA AHJ)

My 4x10 panel array (14ft by 62 ft) will cost me: $2100 for the Prosolar parts, 1200 for the pipe. (1500 for concrete and a pump truck, $750 to dig 18 holes) Admittedly I do have a commercial account, but check it out.

HTH

 

[doc3g]

FWIW...

Im adding a 16kw ground mount and will be using a ProSolar ground mount system

Id used them 14 years ago and found it robust and simple. You look at IronRidge, others and it seems like a combination of being massively over-engineered AND designed to avoid patent infringement. They have a website.

It is a simple system.. you buy 1/5" sched 40 galv steel pipe from a plumbing supply (not 2 or 3" iron ridge wants)
Drop them into concrete piers. (Not the insane 24" dia and 48" deep you get from iron ridge.... ProSolar uses 18"and 30"deep)
The top and bottom rail are held with simple Hollaender Tees ($13). Then you have 172" long mounting rails that are held to the top and bottom pipe with a simple U bolt. Then panel clamps, which are self grounding.

They have engineering reports available, and have proscriptive, engineered designs you can use. (You just need one 'section' to be tested and approved, string them together. AT least here for my PITA AHJ)

My 4x10 panel array (14ft by 62 ft) will cost me: $2100 for the Prosolar parts, 1200 for the pipe. (1500 for concrete and a pump truck, $750 to dig 18 holes) Admittedly I do have a commercial account, but check it out.

HTH

Thanks, will check them out. Have been looking at the hollaender tees. I have easy access to tons of cheap drilling pipe in 2" and 3" because I live in oil country.