diy solar

diy solar

Ground Mounted 9,600 watt Sol Arc do it yourself solar system-Solar Pirate

onokai

Solar Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 9, 2022
Messages
255
Location
Nor-Cal
Here are the details of my 24 x400 9600 watt jinko panel system.
I started with a solar assessment tool for the site Its a handy device loaned out from a local energy supplier. Our side hill was a perfect south facing site. Due to the slope I also slanted it a bit to the west a few degrees. We dug the piers in May 2020 during the early pandemic times. I both the Pressure treated 2x8s 2x6 and 2x4 and 4x4 and 4x8 post and beams. I ordered mots components online -the galvanized hardware and stainless and brass stiff from McMaster Carr-one of the best suppliers I deal with for odd and normal stuff in all metals. I ordered 20 foot uni struts from Zorro as I had a 20% off coupon.The zero stuff showed up a a few days. A few things from Home depot online as well like a case of super strut spring loaded connector bolts to hold panels from below to the struts. I adapted see you tube videos on ground mounts. The huge 12 -15 inch long Ubolts where bought online from a auto parts supplier.I designed this to make it thru our earthquake loads and wind events. The concrete piers are about 3 feet deep and the galvanized simpson strong tie brackets from out local lumber store (no big box stores around here) are wired to rebar into the pour holes.Those holes we dug with hole power digger my neighbor had. I figured the super strut span weight load and started work. I finished rough out in wood and metal by early June and rented a trencher as the Sol arc is in a small outbuilding 100 feet away from array . I dug about 600 feet of trenches and put in spare plumping and electric conduit to well and some other locations. I needed spare wires to out pump house and an extra main schedule 80 line for water as well. I used our rototiller with a wooden plow on front to backfill all trenches . I also wire tracer wire in those trenches as it took me a long time pre digging to find all my old service I dug in back in 1982. I did not want to cut any power or water lines and did not.
I was doing some other jobs that summer like new boat bottom paint (real fun work) and installed the system over time-like hanging the Sol arc and pulling wires and setting ups a 250 # Kilovolt 7.5kw battery. By late fall I was ready to commission the system on November 3rd 2020.
Here are some photos of the build-I hid the whole thing from street view as I;m a solar pirate-hence the nice cedar fence to nowhere . The rack is strong as a ox an has been thru two quakes so far. No hardware is above panels as they are connected underneath to the spring loaded super struts via this spring clamps and a stainless bold. I did run #8 grand wire and hit each panel to a ground rod at under the system . I used some clamps from home depot on the panel connection to grind wire if I recall and used lanacote for all dissimilar metal connections as usual.I used a metal chop saw to cut the superstrut and painted all cuts.
In March covered it and I unwired the whole system and installed Tigi TS4-A-O optimizers . I dug anther trench fro the data cabled weed a CCA to communicate with the web via the tab mounted in the array. . The optimizers are working but I have yet to commission the app/syatem as I'm pondering the shut off when the power is out.I have it wired to a circuit that our generator does not energize when the power goes out (had they system for 10 years now)I need to rewire that outbuilding feed 1st before I commission that system . I;m back feeding the sol arc power thru a 100 amp sub panel to out main 200 rpm house panel about 150 feet away.Hope this makes sense.
A few other details I ordered the Sol-Arc from Alt-e on the spring sale as they have a west coast warehouse 3 hours south of us in Ukiah Ca. I shipped it low cost the KiloVault HAB 7.5 48V 150A-H battery is 250 lbs so we picked it up on a trip south for other items for no ship cost.
This battery went belly up over the 1st winter (the screen went blank) battery still worked I did some R&D for them and they shipped new internal cable but that did not fix the issue so in the spring they replaced that battery (they trucked it out) and sent me another new version model HAB3 and I bought another and got free freight on two shipped to us. So that gave us 15Kw total backup. Speaking of this our energy here is about 17-19kw a day avg with my pottery business and well pumping. These batteries carry us thru the 5-8 pm high power cost and thru the night until the late am and beyond .I'm thinking about adding another but am on the fence.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0853.jpeg
    IMG_0853.jpeg
    155.6 KB · Views: 283
  • IMG_3018.jpeg
    IMG_3018.jpeg
    139.8 KB · Views: 278
  • IMG_3542.jpeg
    IMG_3542.jpeg
    124.3 KB · Views: 278
  • IMG_4656.jpeg
    IMG_4656.jpeg
    134.9 KB · Views: 290
  • IMG_4657.jpeg
    IMG_4657.jpeg
    129.6 KB · Views: 294
  • IMG_4658.jpeg
    IMG_4658.jpeg
    85.4 KB · Views: 301
  • IMG_4659.jpeg
    IMG_4659.jpeg
    75.5 KB · Views: 284
  • IMG_4662.jpeg
    IMG_4662.jpeg
    110.7 KB · Views: 279
  • IMG_4663.jpeg
    IMG_4663.jpeg
    70 KB · Views: 277
  • IMG_4664.jpeg
    IMG_4664.jpeg
    105.1 KB · Views: 284
Last edited:
I forgot to add all components where off the shelf - not solar speciality high cost parts. Not that any where cheap either just easy to acquire and use. My strut span is about max and I thought I may have to support center but it was overkill and its been fine. I did use some fall down super strut cut offs with the proper super strut connectors to make a few long ones as well. I had a few left overs due to case lot buys
I got my solar panels at a place that buys overstock from large solar project in the south west and they had a variable stock at any time. I bought new 400 watt Jinkos at 190$ and trucked the case minus 2 (24 total ) full box is 26 _I wish I got the full box. That cost was about 250$ for trucking from AZ to here. This place gets new panels all the time in various lots and also sell used panels for cheap (remember they do not have full lives then). That place just opened another store in Georgia as fellas AZ-its called San tan Solar-check it out my neighbor scored on some new Sunpower 380 a few years ago.They will lower price if you buy a lot.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4671.jpeg
    IMG_4671.jpeg
    46.2 KB · Views: 93
  • IMG_4669.jpeg
    IMG_4669.jpeg
    71 KB · Views: 94
  • IMG_4665.jpeg
    IMG_4665.jpeg
    81 KB · Views: 91
  • IMG_4672.jpeg
    IMG_4672.jpeg
    49.6 KB · Views: 105
  • IMG_4673.jpeg
    IMG_4673.jpeg
    75.3 KB · Views: 106
  • IMG_4675.jpeg
    IMG_4675.jpeg
    123.6 KB · Views: 104
  • IMG_4676.jpeg
    IMG_4676.jpeg
    112.4 KB · Views: 95
I will add some inside photos of Sol arc and components/batteries soon.
One of my Sol Arc complaints is that they have only a small wire size for array connections-this makes it tough for long larger wire runs to connect without a lot of extra work.
 
Last edited:
You say that your superstrut span is about max; is there a chart somewhere about this, or did you just find out by experience that it seems like a stretch?
 
I did not close in anything on the panels-not sure what you are seeing-they are directly connected to super struts
 
Looks a lot like my wood ground mount, 48 ea - 430W QCell array, 6x8 in portrait, angled at 45deg. Two SA12K. (Love Alt-E). 3 strings of 8 using 10 ga is fine for you. No need for 8 ga. If you used 8 ga for two strings, just use a junction block or 8 ga barrel crimp just beneath SA. I installed Midnite 600V SPD at the array's IMO dc isolator sw/pull boxes.
 
I did not close in anything on the panels-not sure what you are seeing-they are directly connected to super struts
He's referring to fence possibly blocking cooling air to bottom side of array. Measure air temperature just beneath top center panel on a 90F sunny day. See how it compares to your ambient temperature. I felt a lot of heat exiting out the top of mine a month ago at 70F ambient. I'm going to enclose mine on three sides too, with 1" space between oak boards and a 12" slot at top rear.
 
Last edited:
I have a 3-4 inch gap at top of fence and sides and its not to bad heat wise under panels at a 90 degree day which is very rare here on the coast. any way. The fence is for not seeing the stuff inspector wise from the road -no other function to it
 
I have a 3-4 inch gap at top of fence and sides and its not to bad heat wise under panels at a 90 degree day which is very rare here on the coast. any way. The fence is for not seeing the stuff inspector wise from the road -no other function to it
Is that not what the other "fence" is for? Lets call the one attached to the ground mount an enclosure, since that's what it seems like. I was just curious about it, but if you're not I guess it doesn't matter. Anyway, nice work.
 
Is that not what the other "fence" is for? Lets call the one attached to the ground mount an enclosure, since that's what it seems like. I was just curious about it, but if you're not I guess it doesn't matter. Anyway, nice work.
I'm facing the beautiful side of my 20,640 solar array 30' out my back door. It appears he has covered up the back side, which I can understand.
 
Is that not what the other "fence" is for? Lets call the one attached to the ground mount an enclosure, since that's what it seems like. I was just curious about it, but if you're not I guess it doesn't matter. Anyway, nice work.
The far fence is my neighbors-he did a wire fence around most of hgis place I paid for him to use wood at the top so noone From the road could see the side of my array -I do have two sides of fence attached to array frame to cove the whole view from the road. I left room around for air movement.Hope that answers your question?
 
So I plan on using UniStrut also but did you use the spring loaded nuts and bolt the panels directly to the top of the Uni? Mine look to have enough room to get a short 1/4-20 bolt and fender washer in the back part of the panel frame. I have Renogy panels but I am guessing they are all pretty much the same.. Thanks for the PM notice of your Thread!
 
So I plan on using UniStrut also but did you use the spring loaded nuts and bolt the panels directly to the top of the Uni? Mine look to have enough room to get a short 1/4-20 bolt and fender washer in the back part of the panel frame. I have Renogy panels but I am guessing they are all pretty much the same.. Thanks for the PM notice of your Thread!
Yes that exactly what I did -I ordered the stainless bolts and washers and used the dissimilar metal coating called lanacote on all metal connections. I bought all the nuts and washers and bold from McMasterCarr on the web as we live in the bonnies and Ace hardware stuff is crap from China now . McMasterCarr is always high quality. The unitstut connectors where mail order If I recall from Home depot (we do not have one in this parts either) you can get them by the box full. I used a small racheting wrench to tighten them up as its a tight finger fit area. Its super clean install when done . I was in your spot a few years ago with all this stuff as well. I'm not a master electrician but once (in my 30s) worked for my best friend on and off some years who was an electrical contractor for 35 years until retiring. I have a fondness fro electrical work still to this day at 69 years old.
I just posted my inside inverter install
here-
here is one of those strut nuts as well
good luck, ask away if I can help again
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4708.jpeg
    IMG_4708.jpeg
    36.5 KB · Views: 19
Very aware of McMaster Carr, I build things and we have a super big Menards right close by and of course Home Depot. Have a pretty well but downsized shop and I am a Iowa farm kid. It will take me a little time to get organized for this and read all the info you have posted. Thanks again!!
 
Are you thinking metal into cement into gound (like pipes) or something else ?for the array structure
My wood is all PT and does not touch the ground at all.
I also have a small space between panels for air and expansion-if I recall its only about 1/2 to3/4 of an inch at max
 
Last edited:
Back
Top