TinMan6294
New Member
First build, first post. I’ve looked at other threads and I cannot find one that addresses my concerns.
I'm installing a solar system in my RV. It's been overwhelming. The closer I get to wiring it all in, the more intimidated I’m getting. And I’m not an easily intimidated guy.
I'll end up having 4 panels that will be providing around 790 watts in 24-volt configuration. Two 195w 12v panels in series and two 200w 24v panels in parallel.
I'm installing a 24v Hybrid inverter/controller which will be attached to periodic SP/Generator as well as 24v DC battery power. The inverter has 120v AC output.
Because my RV is 12v, I'll be installing a 24/12 70 70 amp Victron DC reducer.
My questions are in regard to grounding. The SP/generator "IN" has three prongs (neutral, hot and ground). The existing wiring to the AC panel in the RV also has three wires. The inverter AC "IN" and AC "OUT", however, only have two wire connections.
So, my questions are:
1. Can I ground three different voltages to the same RV chassis?
2. Right now, I plan on putting a ground buss bar on the mounting board and using it to ground the inverter, and the ground wires that should be accompanying the 10 AWG stranded that I’m using to connect the AC IN and OUT to the inverter. This ground buss bar will be grounded to the RV chassis.
3. Can I ground the negative buss bar to the ground buss bar mentioned in #2 or should it have its own ground to the chassis?
4. Rather than wire nut the ground 10 AWG stranded to the existing SP/generator IN ground post, and run the wire to the mounting board ground buss bar, can I just ground it to the chassis where the AC IN comes in?
5. Similarly to Question #3, can I ground the existing ground wire that goes to the RV AC panel right to the chassis rather than running a ground 10 AWG stranded to it from the ground buss bar?
I’m attaching a sketch of what it looks like in my head right now. I did not include all of the breaker/switches and fuses in the sketch but I will be using a 160 amp breaker/switch for the battery wires and 30 amp breaker/switches for everything else. I'm also putting a 200 amp fuse right at the positive battery terminal.
My mounting board is plywood covered with metal roof thickness sheet steel. I was worried about mounting things that could overheat or spark to wood.
Any input, advice, criticism is welcome, please.
I'm installing a solar system in my RV. It's been overwhelming. The closer I get to wiring it all in, the more intimidated I’m getting. And I’m not an easily intimidated guy.
I'll end up having 4 panels that will be providing around 790 watts in 24-volt configuration. Two 195w 12v panels in series and two 200w 24v panels in parallel.
I'm installing a 24v Hybrid inverter/controller which will be attached to periodic SP/Generator as well as 24v DC battery power. The inverter has 120v AC output.
Because my RV is 12v, I'll be installing a 24/12 70 70 amp Victron DC reducer.
My questions are in regard to grounding. The SP/generator "IN" has three prongs (neutral, hot and ground). The existing wiring to the AC panel in the RV also has three wires. The inverter AC "IN" and AC "OUT", however, only have two wire connections.
So, my questions are:
1. Can I ground three different voltages to the same RV chassis?
2. Right now, I plan on putting a ground buss bar on the mounting board and using it to ground the inverter, and the ground wires that should be accompanying the 10 AWG stranded that I’m using to connect the AC IN and OUT to the inverter. This ground buss bar will be grounded to the RV chassis.
3. Can I ground the negative buss bar to the ground buss bar mentioned in #2 or should it have its own ground to the chassis?
4. Rather than wire nut the ground 10 AWG stranded to the existing SP/generator IN ground post, and run the wire to the mounting board ground buss bar, can I just ground it to the chassis where the AC IN comes in?
5. Similarly to Question #3, can I ground the existing ground wire that goes to the RV AC panel right to the chassis rather than running a ground 10 AWG stranded to it from the ground buss bar?
I’m attaching a sketch of what it looks like in my head right now. I did not include all of the breaker/switches and fuses in the sketch but I will be using a 160 amp breaker/switch for the battery wires and 30 amp breaker/switches for everything else. I'm also putting a 200 amp fuse right at the positive battery terminal.
My mounting board is plywood covered with metal roof thickness sheet steel. I was worried about mounting things that could overheat or spark to wood.
Any input, advice, criticism is welcome, please.