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Growatt 24V SPF 3000TL LVM off-grid

Can you send a link / contact to where you got your Growatt? Also why not MPPSOLAR, was actually considering to try it for my next build ?

Growatt tends to have better manual. MPP had a float charge bug in the software several years ago. Some info suggests that it is still present in current software but as I dont follow MPP as close so I don't know for sure.
 
I decided on Growatt as it has a very large installation base worldwide, and a very good reputation. Everything you need to connect several Growatt’s together is included. MPP charges extra for the parallel kit. After testing a provisional set up for weeks, I am very impressed with it. It is in my opinion a great value for the price.
 

Growatt tends to have better manual. MPP had a float charge bug in the software several years ago. Some info suggests that it is still present in current software but as I dont follow MPP as close so I don't know for sure.
I just came from reading a thread started last year about LiFePo4 charging woes involved with a MPP 2424. I was just thinking how similar the MPPs and Growatts are and was getting worried about this float charge bug being present. I have a Growatt SPF 24V 3000 sitting in box in the other room, 24 280ah batteries thousands of miles away. I'm glad to hear that the bug, assuming we are talking about the same one, doesn't exist with the Growatt models. Shame about the idle consumption.

Does anyone know if you put the Growatt inverter in the power saving mode, where it consumes a much lower wattage, would be suitable for a typical residential fridge? I'm not entirely sure how the thermostat on run of the mill fridges work, whether they need power or if it's just a bi-metal thermostat.

Anyways, I have this thread on watch and if any of you Growatt users have any more experiences or config information to share I'll look forward to reading it. Doing every bit of research I can.

Thanks
 
The configuration isn't what I struggled with. After a couple of reads of the manual and makeing a point to understand what each of the menu's were intended to do, I made notes in the margin of the manual for each setting. Then just programed them in.
 
The configuration isn't what I struggled with. After a couple of reads of the manual and makeing a point to understand what each of the menu's were intended to do, I made notes in the margin of the manual for each setting. Then just programed them in.

Great thread, I have had a this module for a couple months and played a little bit, but just received my 16, 280ah batteries and promptly connected 8 in series with a Daly 8S 250a BMS...

My question is this, "Does it even need a BMS?" Doesn't seem anyone has mentioned one on this thread, am I being paranoid? ;-)
 
Great thread, I have had a this module for a couple months and played a little bit, but just received my 16, 280ah batteries and promptly connected 8 in series with a Daly 8S 250a BMS...

My question is this, "Does it even need a BMS?" Doesn't seem anyone has mentioned one on this thread, am I being paranoid? ;-)
If someone just spent ~$1,500 on 16 DIY battery cells, the answer is going to be, yes, use a BMS. I'm planning on doing three separate 24v batteries paralleled each with it's own Overkill BMS. The wait for the batteries is killing me, but in the meantime I'm getting the rest of my ducks in a row.
 
If someone just spent ~$1,500 on 16 DIY battery cells, the answer is going to be, yes, use a BMS. I'm planning on doing three separate 24v batteries paralleled each with it's own Overkill BMS. The wait for the batteries is killing me, but in the meantime I'm getting the rest of my ducks in a row.

I looked at the Overkills, they're great) but since I'm doing 2 8S batteries, (or 2P8S) that doesn't seem to be enough throughput to match the peak 6000W output of the Growatt... seems like you'd need 250a BMS to cover that, no?
 
I looked at the Overkills, they're great) but since I'm doing 2 8S batteries, (or 2P8S) that doesn't seem to be enough throughput to match the peak 6000W output of the Growatt... seems like you'd need 250a BMS to cover that, no?
I'm going with three parallel 8s for a total continuous draw of 300 amps safely. Enough for me with plenty of room for surge. This is mostly because I plan on interfacing with the BMSs for a lot of logging. Which I hear overkill is good for. I may split one pack from the rest for another project.

Yeah, 250amps at 24v would cover 6kw.

If I'm not mistaken the overkill ratings are for continuous and there's room for surge. Hope someone can confirm or refute that. At most I'll be pulling 100 amps continuously from my batteries.
 
Hello all. I just finished up my install. Finally received my battery from BigBattery.

Have any of you had success muting the damn beep? I’ve tried all combinations of menu adjustment when inverter on and off under settings 15 and 17 but the beep remains.
 
The ONLY way I've found to do it is via the web interface... I know Ian had a process, and then a revised process... but neither of those worked for me.

Even on a reboot, when all my other custom settings were retained, the beep comes back. I literally just did this swapping out a shunt about an hour ago. It's annoying, but so far the only gripe I've had with it.
 
Excellent!

Thanks apctjb. I also received same advice from Ian at Watts247:

“Press the ENTER AND DOWN buttons simultaneously for 1 to 2 sec. You will need to do this each time you power cycle the unit, which may be never.”

I’m living a beep free life now.

B8713849-5275-4658-A69B-D82FCE303214.jpeg
 
Excellent!

Thanks apctjb. I also received same advice from Ian at Watts247:

“Press the ENTER AND DOWN buttons simultaneously for 1 to 2 sec. You will need to do this each time you power cycle the unit, which may be never.”

I’m living a beep free life now.

View attachment 40600
So awesome that works... was that information posted somewhere?

And it doesn’t seem like it keeps the beep from coming back on... but way better than it was.
 
I could not find it posted anywhere, so asked on this forum and sent email to watts247.

You would think something like this would be in the manual, but no mention of it.
 
If any of you gentlemen using the 3k Growatt system(any inverter really) have a good shunt, or any other way of measuring the idle current draw from the battery, could you please take a measurement with all AC loads off and then switch on a small(known) AC load and record the difference?

I'm curious if the idle draw of the inverter whatever that may be(50 watts?) is always cumulative with any additional AC loads added to the inverter. Well, you'd also have to disconnect or measure when there are no charging sources available.

For instance:
50 watt idle draw.
60 watt@120VAC added(.5amps)
So new total being drawn from bat is 50w + 66w(10% inefficiency loss) = 116 watts?
Or would that idle current be proportionally um, ironed out if you will, as increasing loads are added to the inverter?

I hope I explained my question well enough.

Thanks
 
I completed my wiring today and got mine up and running less the solar array. I am setting up my panels in the driveway every day till I get the mount built. I installed a Thornwave smart shunt with data logging to keep an eye on the Growatt. I will take a look at it every day for a while, but so far my idle is 4W to 5W. I have a side by side fridge freezer, wash machine, two battery tenders for lawn tractor batteries, and lighting connected so far. when the appliances are Idle, and all of the lights are off, the Growatt goes back to 4W to 5W draw. The loads were also individually tested with kill-a-watt meters and bounced of the Growatt. My heavier loads were about 10% higher than the kill-a-watt measurements. I account that to line voltage loss, inverter inefficiency and the Growatt system load (fans, WiFi, controllers, display).
 
I completed my wiring today and got mine up and running less the solar array. I am setting up my panels in the driveway every day till I get the mount built. I installed a Thornwave smart shunt with data logging to keep an eye on the Growatt. I will take a look at it every day for a while, but so far my idle is 4W to 5W. I have a side by side fridge freezer, wash machine, two battery tenders for lawn tractor batteries, and lighting connected so far. when the appliances are Idle, and all of the lights are off, the Growatt goes back to 4W to 5W draw. The loads were also individually tested with kill-a-watt meters and bounced of the Growatt. My heavier loads were about 10% higher than the kill-a-watt measurements. I account that to line voltage loss, inverter inefficiency and the Growatt system load (fans, WiFi, controllers, display).

4-5w Sounds lower than I expected. I suppose you have it in hunting mode where it looks for a load before powering on the inverter?

How do you like that shunt so far? I have the same one sitting here collecting dust on the desk.
 
Power saving mode is off. When power saving is activated, my inverter goes to sleep, but will not wake when I apply a load. So I just leave it off. That is the one glitch I found so far.

I love the shunt. They are hard to get anymore Always sold out. Break it out and see what your draw is exactly.
 
Power saving mode is off. When power saving is activated, my inverter goes to sleep, but will not wake when I apply a load. So I just leave it off. That is the one glitch I found so far.

I love the shunt. They are hard to get anymore Always sold out. Break it out and see what your draw is exactly.
Only way I could test mine out at the moment would be to buy temporary lead acid batteries or emulate a battery with my 300 watt bench power supply. I'm tempted to do the latter. I've got at least 2 months until my LFPs get here. If the panels were already here I would buy a cheap pair of lead acid to test with.

Thornwave page reads 7 in stock right now. I emailed diylithium on youtube and offered to send mine to him to review/test. Never heard back from him. If you could upload some screenshots of the app in use that'd be great. Might be better not to hi-jack this thread with that.
 
Only way I could test mine out at the moment would be to buy temporary lead acid batteries or emulate a battery with my 300 watt bench power supply. I'm tempted to do the latter. I've got at least 2 months until my LFPs get here. If the panels were already here I would buy a cheap pair of lead acid to test with.

Thornwave page reads 7 in stock right now. I emailed diylithium on youtube and offered to send mine to him to review/test. Never heard back from him. If you could upload some screenshots of the app in use that'd be great. Might be better not to hi-jack this thread with that.
I just ordered a Growatt 48v SPF-3000TL LVM-ES yesterday. I'm in the same position, waiting for my other 8 Lishen cells to arrive to complete my 48v battery pack. Ian at watts247 suggested I could use a 48v power supply to test the unit. I just ordered a 48v power supply from Amazon and when my Growatt comes I'll test it with the power supply.
 
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