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Growatt ARK 2.5L Battery?

topnotchit

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May 17, 2021
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I did a quick search for a thread on Growatt's batteries, but came up empty for ARK 2.5L.

Are these available in the US?
They appear to be 48v 50amp batteries, is that correct?
Are the SPF-3000TL LVM or LVM-ES compatible with them? (even the 24v SPF-3000?)
No concerns about split phase, parallel operations with these batteries?

What are the main issues or concerns with these batteries?

Thanks
 
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I have some problems with this battery.
At first I have growatt SPF5000 ES with 2 growatt battery's ARK 2.5L A-1, than I want to add 2 pcs more. When I connect the battery's they don't want to connect, and there were blinking blue and green light, after their was red light. And at the and there is no light, and u can't put batteries on. (No lights). Maybe any Idea what could be wrong?
 
Have you checked the 2 new batteries before connecting them? If you turn on a disconnected ARK 2.5L it will show flashing lights then settle with a green light and blue lights. If it settles with a red light there is a battery problem.
 
Hi guys, I am new here, but I used a lot of topics to build up my home solar array....
So on the question -
1. do you know if this battery (Growatt Ark2.5L) is with discontinued production ? I live in east Europe (Bulgaria) and I bought only one when I was building my solar - just to put my both Growatt SPF5000ES in parallel, but now only one battery is not enough for 8kW solar array and my house load(I never thought there will be such a market shortage). I try to buy another 2 batteries from the same model but I cannot find any store to have them on stock 500+km range. All of them saying - waiting delivery with unknown date!
2. In case I cannot get another battery soon do you know if I can use Growatt Ark2.5L without CAN connection - controlling it by voltages from the inverter.
3. May be I am going towards the DIY LiFePo4 battery with 16 ~300Ah cells and Daly BMS(do no have any other options currently available around) - can I use this Growatt battery in parallel if both batteries are controlled by voltage thresholds ? I know that due to the internal resistance difference b/w both batteries there will be currents between them but would there be any use for such a connection or I need to sell this Growatt Battery(if no market availability soon) and proceed with DIY one.

Any ideas will be helpful, I am getting frustrated cause need to run my 3 split AC units(getting cold here) and this battery constantly cuts outs due its 1250W limit( Actually it goes for short time even to 2200W, but I do not want to push it).
 
Hi guys, I am new here, but I used a lot of topics to build up my home solar array....
So on the question -
1. do you know if this battery (Growatt Ark2.5L) is with discontinued production ? I live in east Europe (Bulgaria) and I bought only one when I was building my solar - just to put my both Growatt SPF5000ES in parallel, but now only one battery is not enough for 8kW solar array and my house load(I never thought there will be such a market shortage). I try to buy another 2 batteries from the same model but I cannot find any store to have them on stock 500+km range. All of them saying - waiting delivery with unknown date!
2. In case I cannot get another battery soon do you know if I can use Growatt Ark2.5L without CAN connection - controlling it by voltages from the inverter.
3. May be I am going towards the DIY LiFePo4 battery with 16 ~300Ah cells and Daly BMS(do no have any other options currently available around) - can I use this Growatt battery in parallel if both batteries are controlled by voltage thresholds ? I know that due to the internal resistance difference b/w both batteries there will be currents between them but would there be any use for such a connection or I need to sell this Growatt Battery(if no market availability soon) and proceed with DIY one.

Any ideas will be helpful, I am getting frustrated cause need to run my 3 split AC units(getting cold here) and this battery constantly cuts outs due its 1250W limit( Actually it goes for short time even to 2200W, but I do not want to push it).
1. Growatt are still advertising the low voltage ARK - https://www.ginverter.com/Residential-Storage-Inverters/43-656.html but if you search Alibaba.com there are very few, if any, low voltage ARK for sale, they are all HV. Perhaps contact Growatt directly? SUN ARK looks like it might be a spin-off from Growatt, it could be worth contacting them to see if they are both Growatt ARK LV and Growatt inverter compatible (https://sunevo.en.made-in-china.com...ry-2-5kwh-Growatt-Battery-Ark-48-V-50-Ah.html sign up to Alibaba and message them). BTW, the SUN ARK batteries look very cheap but be careful about freight charges and VAT - insist that any supplier from China quotes for the whole price to your door. Seriously, the price can easily double due to freight charges for heavy items.

2. The ARK has a BMS on each module. If it does not receive a CAN signal for a few minutes it turns off, the terminals are disconnected when the lights go out. The ARK has rows of batteries inside that could be charged by an external BMS like the Daly although close communication would need a CAN protocol that is compatible with your inverter but you can use a BMS without CAN or RS485. Some hybrid inverters such as the SPF5000ES have a battery charging function without CAN or RS485 but this needs careful setting up.

The conversion would involve removing/bridging the existing BMS electronics and directly connecting the batteries to the terminals on the module. This is not very difficult, the case is easy to open, but think SAFETY as you work.

3. I am not sure about operating in parallel with other makes. Series operation is not recommended.

It is possible to acquire another Growatt inverter and operate this in parallel. Unfortunately only one battery is allowed but it is probably possible to feed the output from another battery into the PV input of the second inverter. The new battery would be charged from the 240V inverter output and a mains charger (the main problem would be preventing the charger from providing direct input to the inverter - timers could be used) or through a separate MPPT charger from part of the PV string..... The new battery would need to supply at least 140V (minimum solar input voltage for Growatt).
 
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Thanks for the quick replay Sidmouthsteve. Anyway ordering, by myself, only few batteries from China wont be economically fusible due to the cost of transport, custom charges and VAT - but I send a request for quote for the one supplier that I found offering ARK2.5L. The SunArk is offered in pack of 10s only - too much for me now.

2. - This is bad :(, but I have good microcontroller programming skills so I can sniff the CAN(with Raspberry or simillar) and program one Arduino with appropriate convertor to talk to the Growatt BMS so it is thinking that its connected to the inverter and keeping it awake(even I think one of the 2 pins of RJ45 CAN connector is for "waiking up" the battery) - I guess will be able to do that during the short winter days :)...or if this fails - will disaseble it and use it as a separate cells with 3rd party BMS...will see but anyway I need to solve this short term issue in the upcoming days.
 
Good morning ( at least on my side of the globe).

So I have successfully managed to "alter" the protocol between the Growatt ARK2.5L and the inverter and use DIY battery with the Growatt one - more details bellow - this will be big one.

1. I sourced locally 16s 280AHs LiFePo4 cells. I bought them 10 days ago with a BMS, produced by the same factory supplying the cells. The BMS is nothing fancy - 150A discharge, with simple Bluetooth app(can switch On/Off the charging and discharging, monitor SoC, cells Voltages) and RS485 out.
2. I build the battery and then attach it to the existing system by doing following steps :
- Disconnect only positive lead from the ARK2.5, but left all the rest connection in place (CAN bus, Neg.Lead)
- Connect DIY battery positive lead to the DC bus - the inverters starts charging it, but with the restriction mandated by the ARK (25A total charge current, 56.8 V max voltage).
- From time to time, I measured the voltage difference b/w the ARK and DIY battery. It took few hours of charging with ~1350W to reach 0.1 V difference b/w both batteries. Then I connected the positive lead of the ARK. Due to the difference of internal resistance majority of the charging current is going to the DIY battery, where the ARK took only few AMPs.
- I continue to monitor and control the system based on the SoC of the Growatt battery, but the DIY battery app was constantly showing 100%SoC, due to it was programmed, when cells reach 3.47V to cut and then start monitoring.
- After few days of work like that, the SoC of the DIY battery start to show values with 0.5-0.8% lower than what the ARK reported and difference b/w cells around 14-16mV( which I think is OK). I think when it reached those 3.47V per cell the it thinks that its top balanced and start to count from there, but due to the low charge current it took few days to go up to this voltages.
- Yesterday I disconnected the ARK and just for test switch the inverters to US2 battery - to test charging the DIY battery with big current and little bit higher voltage - 60A was ok, but it had hard time balancing 2 of the cells. The difference b/w the highest and lowest cell voltage gone to 170mV. At the end of the day I connected back the ARK and switch on to LI setting - after some load the DIY battery cell voltages set back to ~ 20mV.
During those 10 days I managed to get 4000+W of power out of both batteries without any cut in the supply due overload of the ARK. The only downside was that the charge current was set to 25A(1300W) and max charge voltage to 56.8V by the ARK, but it actually never goes to 55.4(this is another one that I want to change with at least 0.1V higher - keep reading ).

So to overcome this issues and satisfy my passion for microcontrollers and embodied devices - I cannot left the situation like that!:cool: The idea was to sniff the CAN and see if I can alter the communication b/w the ARK and the inverted. So I bought single MCP2515 board with SPI interface and using one Arduino I was able to sniff how the ARK/Inverter is talking. Software for PC and Arduino is available here https://github.com/adamtheone/canDrive - great tool runny on Python!

After logging 1000+ packets, trying different configurations(only battery connected, only inverter connected, change of reported SoC, battery in fault mode) I managed to find few candidates for what I need.
- Communication is 500kbits/s, SDT frame(no ext id), always broadcasted 8 data bytes.
- Invertor always broadcast id 0x301 data 0x0B,16,21,2C,37,42,4D,58 with static content - never changed.
- after connecting battery, one of the first IDs sent from the battery is 0x311 that by looking similar protocols(pylos battery I think) try to find it contains what I was looking for....and sure there was :), not the same as pylons batteries bot it was good guide line.
-knowing the battery limits i try to find them in ID 0x311 broadcasted from the battery - so bytes
--D0:D1 - contains the max voltage in unsigned int format for example 0238 = 568*0.1V = 56.8V max voltage limit
--D2:D3 - contains the max charge limit, unsigned int for example 00FA = 250*0.1A = 25A max charge current
--D4:D5 - similar to charge current
--D6:D7 - I guess some status bits
- SoC is recorded in ID=0x313, D6

So now knowing this I used the canDrive to sniff normal comunication for 1 min, then export this to .csv file and change all 0x311 IDs bytes D2:D3 to 0x1F4 = 500*0.1A = 50A. Disconnect the battery, load the changed log file and start broadcasting - and voala ! After 30 sec the parameter for max charge current was changed from 12A to 25A ( I have 2 iverter in paralel so total is 50A ) :)! Success - I took a beer?
When the battery is fully chaged the D2:D5 bytes are 0x00 - strange, but keep reading.

Next step - how to make it work - as you may know just broadcasting the revised 0x311 data on the CAN wont work, cause the battery will keep broadcasting its parameters - so I need a CAN gateway, sitting between the BMS and the inverter. I thought that Arduino Uno may be with insufficient processing power and since I have already DIY Battery with Bluetooth BMS, why note use NodeMCU32-S - it has quite fast MCU, Bluetooth and Wifi( to report later to my local python server already running - but this is another topic). I was thinking for Raspberry Pi, but its hard to find, expensive and required some kind of services running(may drop down). For the CAN hardware side I found MCP2515 dual CAN hat for Raspberry pi - perfect ! :)

So I took one of my NodeMCU32s and using this library : https://github.com/coryjfowler/MCP_CAN_lib, by tweaking a little bit the dual_can example I was able to make a CAN gateway working. On CAN1 attached battery on CAN0 attached inverter BMS port. Make a routine that forward evertithing form CAN1 to CAN0 except ID 0x311. For ID 0x311 I hard coded it into the MCU like that "byte id311[] = {0x02,0x39,0x01,0xF4,0x01,0xF4,0x00,0x61};" - for 50A charging current and 56.9(+0.1V) charging voltage. When I connected it it works :)...the Inverted clicks and power the battery, inverter parameter 02 is 25A(50A for both inverters) and parameters 19,20 for charging voltages ware 56.9V...

What next - I want to change only D0:D5 parameters in 0x311 so the status bits are forwarded correctly to the inverter and test the setup for a few days(weeks) prior release of the code(most probably will make a github page). May be when everything is completed will raise another topic in this forum with all the steps and software, wiring diagrams - so it can be done by other persons. Will try to add Bluetooth support in this MCU- why not later adding Daly or other BMSs to this project and be like cross platform to Growatt inverter? Currently I am reverse engineering my BMS to take the SOC, current, Voltages (it uses Bluetooth LE UART) and once this is done, most probably will add and Wifi client ( HTTP ) so I can get the info from my DIY server running in my network(pulling info from growatt site) and providing the complete information there.

This is for now - will keep posting and for any questions I am available on private message or here in this topic.

PS quite long but I guess will be helpful if someone decide to do something similar.
 

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@edibg, great results!
I have tried to emulate the ARK using my CAN Adapter and it turned out that the SPH is detecting the battery (showing a battery symbol) when it sees at least the frames 311,313 and 320.
311 is the charging limits (current. voltage) and 313 is the actual battery voltage/current. But i still dont know what is the content of 320. It looks somehow statical, maybe a model id?
320: 47 54 03 04 00 04 00 00
do you have already decoded it?
 
Hi @hugoboss00

My id=320:47,54,03,04,00,00,00,00 - it is static and I think is the type of the battery, BMS software...etc, so I just re-transfer this id message from the battery to the inverter, no worries cause the limits are stated in another id=311.

For a week I am testing some code, last night update it a little bit, now it is available here : https://github.com/edibg/growattArkCAN you can check it if you want ( Screenshots attached is not made with this software, it is hot hot from few hours ago and to be tested during the weekend).

Now I am able to read the battery SOC, voltage, current that passes trough the ARK BMS, and alter the charge voltage and current.

One Issue that I am hopping will be solved with the version of the code, published in the link above is the following :
When the DIY battery reaches ~77%SOC it disconnects for a few minutes ( I guess there are some cells that reach the cut out voltages), but the charging current limit is still high. This high current goes to the ARK battery causing it to charge quickly(see attached). So I made a function that is reducing the charging current when the SOC is increased....For example I use the following formula max_current = 25 + (100-SOC), so for 80% SOC the max current will be 25+20 = 45A. But this do not solve the issue completely.

So I add a function that will read the actual current that goes trough ARK BMS (id=0x313) and if the current is bigger than pre-set value (defined as ark_max_current) it set the inverter charing current back to 25A. This is yet to be tested next few days and will change the code accordingly.

Due to stated issue now the ARK reports 100% SOC, that cause the iverter to reduce the voltage, that lead to not charging the DIY battery completely.

Will keep posting.
 

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Hi guys, I am new here, but I used a lot of topics to build up my home solar array....
So on the question -
1. do you know if this battery (Growatt Ark2.5L) is with discontinued production ? I live in east Europe (Bulgaria) and I bought only one when I was building my solar - just to put my both Growatt SPF5000ES in parallel, but now only one battery is not enough for 8kW solar array and my house load(I never thought there will be such a market shortage). I try to buy another 2 batteries from the same model but I cannot find any store to have them on stock 500+km range. All of them saying - waiting delivery with unknown date!
2. In case I cannot get another battery soon do you know if I can use Growatt Ark2.5L without CAN connection - controlling it by voltages from the inverter.
3. May be I am going towards the DIY LiFePo4 battery with 16 ~300Ah cells and Daly BMS(do no have any other options currently available around) - can I use this Growatt battery in parallel if both batteries are controlled by voltage thresholds ? I know that due to the internal resistance difference b/w both batteries there will be currents between them but would there be any use for such a connection or I need to sell this Growatt Battery(if no market availability soon) and proceed with DIY one.

Any ideas will be helpful, I am getting frustrated cause need to run my 3 split AC units(getting cold here) and this battery constantly cuts outs due its 1250W limit( Actually it goes for short time even to 2200W, but I do not want to push it).
Здравейте,
Намерихте ли батерия? Имам проблем с моите. Каква аларма ви дава когато не достига мощност от батерията? Аз съм със четири броя и ми изключва при товар над 6000 W с аларма 52. Никъде не мога да намеря информация за подобен проблем.
Поздрави
 
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