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Growatt N-G confusion

Very strange, wonder if hrowatt in theory infinite wisdom has multiple grounds on some older models
 
Very strange, wonder if hrowatt in theory infinite wisdom has multiple grounds on some older models
Growatt support just saw my video and got back with me. Apparently the 3000tl lvm 48p doesn't have a gn bond by design. Maybe the es is the same?
 

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I have the lvm es and it had NG bond, the response you received doesn't even match your own testing unless they are saying your model has dynamic switching and only had NG bond under battery and not AC input
 
Me again, if I cut my dryer feed and wire it directly to my 100 amp sub panel lugs I would then feed my dryer with a double poll 30 and then use a double poll 40 to feed each growatt or would it be a double poll 20? Sorry for so many questions but after reading through our previous conversations I feel lost all over again
 

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Me again, if I cut my dryer feed and wire it directly to my 100 amp sub panel lugs I would then feed my dryer with a double poll 30 and then use a double poll 40 to feed each growatt or would it be a double poll 20? Sorry for so many questions but after reading through our previous conversations I feel lost all over again
 

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That would depend on the wire size used. The breakers job is to protect the wire.
But since 30a is your feed. There's no reason to go above that.
You can use a 30a and 10 awg wire.
Or a 20a and 12 awg wire.
 
So since main breaker is a 30 still use a double 30 for the dryer in the sub panel. The growatt part is where I am a bit confused again, I think you said 40 amp for pass-through and charging but was thinking a double for was way to big and thought maybe the double 20 would be better, all of my thinking got my confused.
 
So since main breaker is a 30 still use a double 30 for the dryer in the sub panel. The growatt part is where I am a bit confused again, I think you said 40 amp for pass-through and charging but was thinking a double for was way to big and thought maybe the double 20 would be better, all of my thinking got my confused.
It really doesn't matter. As long as the wire matches the breaker. You are already limited to 30a total by the main breaker.
 
I use 2 pole MCB's.

ASI NDB1-125C125-2, Miniature Circuit Breaker,DIN Rail Mount High Current Circuit Breaker, 125A, 2 Pole, 240Vac, 60 Vdc, C Trip Curve https://a.co/d/33kF
Tim, i have cheaper version of this breaker, do you think i can wire dc in from the bottom and dc out to inverter from the top?
 

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Tim, i have cheaper version of this breaker, do you think i can wire dc in from the bottom and dc out to inverter from the top?
Not recommended. Because it's designed to break the highest flow of current from the top terminals.
But if you do, reverse the polarity. This gives you the best chance of being able to open the circuit with less Hazzard.
 
Got a strange to me problem, still fighting with signature solar on why I have current on ground, watts247 says to jump ac in to ac out to create a common neutral (previously discussed with you) today I decided to try to pinpoint where I am getting this stray current from, I turn of all of my solar equipment amd used my volt meter to jump the ground wire from AC from solar to my water main, with everything turned off and everything that has any type of ac or dc power going into the solar I show 1.75 volts AC, I connect solar panels and I get 3.75 volts AC, I turn the Panel breaker on and I get 4.25 volts DC, I am using midnight solar surge protection bur even when I disconnect all of the grounds, turn everything off on solar I still cant get the 1.75 volts to go away, is this normal? I am also showing .05 amps dc but zero AC amps on ground, I ran a ground from panels to their own ground rod and no change.
 
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No separate ground rods.
Only one grounding system for everything.
If your system isn't bonded, you'll always read strange voltages on ground. Because you have the system floating.
The proper way is the jumper from input neutral to output neutral.
 
No separate ground rods.
Only one grounding system for everything.
If your system isn't bonded, you'll always read strange voltages on ground. Because you have the system floating.
The proper way is the jumper from input neutral to output neutral.
 
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