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Growatt - Odd behavior

I know this is an old post, but I've experience the same issue with my new Growatt 3000w 24v. Battery topped off, solar turned off even though I was still pulling a decent load and the sun was out.
Tonight I noticed my charge light was solid Green indicating full charge even though my SOC was 85%. After a reboot, the light went off (dark out now).
I now suspect I experienced an overcharge and had restart disable in setting 06. I'm guessing the inverter turned off but never reset per the setting.

To mediate, I've changed setting 05 to US2. I know growatt prefers USE, but even the documentation with my lithium battery manufacture has a recommended float voltage
Lowered 19 to 28v and set 20 to 27v
I'll keep an eye on it tomorrow when my battery tops off. Hopefully, it will continue to utilize the solar panels even though charged.
 
Growatt is just a garbage company. They never fix anything. Their idle consumption is ridiculous, their shine server has been sending out garbage errors for months, and they do nothing to fix it. Yes every morning my customers get "EQUIPMENT FAILURE ALARM" alerts on their phones. usually the failure is related to the shine server indicating that their array is putting out NEGATIVE 6GW
 
Speaking about the idle consumption, do you guys know of an inverter that makes a lot less noise than the growatt transformer base inverters? I have a SPF6000DVM and it is LOUD.
 
Speaking about the idle consumption, do you guys know of an inverter that makes a lot less noise than the growatt transformer base inverters? I have a SPF6000DVM and it is LOUD.

There must be. The Solarcity Delta H6 I used for awhile was completely sealed with no fans - but I don't believe it's low frequency transformer based.

I expect that if sound was a priority a company could design a transformer inverter to be passively convection cooled, mostly be increasing their efficiency, but also through careful thermal design.

For me cost was a much more compelling factor, and the tradeoffs simply mean I mount it in a sheltered building separate from living/working areas. The batteries are on the opposite side of the wall in the workshop, which is heated to 40F in the winter.

It gets louder when under load, so I know some fans are switched on and off, but I think they are switched based on load, and not temperature. I suspect that placing temperature sensors around the unit, and replacing the fans with variable speed fans and a little automation you could significantly reduce the noise without reducing the cooling required. I just think they took the cheap and easy way out - but it works.
 
MPPT Charging stops at the voltage set in 19 (27.3) or within a tenth of a volt so 27.4 etc... But to be clear the issue isn't the charging. It should stop "Charging" at that voltage. the issue is it stops using solar for powering a load. While it is working as expected. say with battery at 60% soc currently the pannels are on and their power is split between charging the batteries and powering the load (in my case the load is around 250 watts) as inidcated by pvkeeper etc. But when the batteries fill or at least growatt sees them hit the setting 19 value. Growatt turns off - not only the charging - but also completely stops using solar for the inverter (Load)... so once the batteries are charged (usually around 1:30 - 3 according to cloud cover etc. the solar panels may as well not even be hooked up to the inverter. it completely shut them down for powering the load...
I am currently dealing with this same issue and I'm wondering if you were able to resolve it and how?
 
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There must be. The Solarcity Delta H6 I used for awhile was completely sealed with no fans - but I don't believe it's low frequency transformer based.
According to this manual, it didn't even have a transformer. https://www.greatsolarpanels.com/wp...ybrid-Inverter_v1.1_02_03_17-release22838.pdf

Isn't out of business?

It gets louder when under load, so I know some fans are switched on and off, but I think they are switched based on load, and not temperature. I suspect that placing temperature sensors around the unit, and replacing the fans with variable speed fans and a little automation you could significantly reduce the noise without reducing the cooling required. I just think they took the cheap and easy way out - but it works.
Complexity adds more failure points......
 
I am currently dealing with this same issue and I'm wondering if you were able to resolve it and how?
Float charging voltage needs to be set close to Bulk charging voltage. There will not be PV input if the battery voltage is higher than the float setting after the Bulk charging cycle.

I set mine to SBU and USE with Bulk at 28.5V and 28.0V for Float. Depending on your pack (DIY), where you set the Bulk is determined by any runner cells. If you have any runners, you have to back off the Bulk charging voltage or the BMS will trip for high cell voltage disconnect. Then adjust Float to 0.5V below Bulk. If you prefer to stay in the beginning of the knee area, you can use Bulk 28.0V, 27.5V, etc. Then adjust Float accordingly.
 
Speaking about the idle consumption, do you guys know of an inverter that makes a lot less noise than the growatt transformer base inverters? I have a SPF6000DVM and it is LOUD.
Outback fx series are silent sealed inverters they are only 2000 to 2500w each, and cost about 2k new, but they are completely silent. (Not to be confused with their vfx models the v is for vented)
 
Sorry duplicate message I don't know how to delete. Please ignore
 
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Just installed my first Growatt 3000 tl lvm 24p along with 300ah calib lifep04 battery I made with a 100a daly bms with bluetooth and 2 banks of 6 400w solar cells, one bank for this growatt and the other for another to be added. After the first day I was very unhappy with my project, sun was full we ran a 1 ton inverter mini split and all the electronics in the house and watched the unit just drain the battery, turning off the main battery switch and back on made every reboot and work as it should using solar to supply power to the inverter and charge the battery bank then after batteries charged solar dropped out. Yesterday I read this thread and changed from use2 to use and program 19 to 27.5vdc and 20 to 27vdc and it all worked so thank you all for your knowledge and input. (y) I am unsure about purchasing another growatt to run the refrigeration in the house and looking into a different set up. I built and installed a victron solar system on our Airstream van and its worked flawlessly at almost 3 times the cost but seems to have a more stable charge from the solar cells by having its own separate programmable MPPT solar charger for the batteries. https://diysolarforum.com/threads/solar-powered-class-b-motorhome.33011/ Not sure if a pulsating charge from the growatt could damage the batteries but the victron unit only changes charge rate when you have a cloud or drive under something, the growatt changes from 0-50 amps every few seconds according to the Daly BMS.
 

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I would like to ask for input on the original post. IE why, once the charge controller has charged the batteries does it turn off the solar panels and consume battery power ONLY when there is plenty of sun. While it is charging the batteries it will divert some of the solar power to the load but the rest of the power goes to the batteries. But once my system hits the voltage set in 19 the solar to inverter process is stopped and the system goes 100% to load from batteries. I would expect the system to consume solar power as much as possible for as long as possible and augment with battery as needed / if needed and until solar was no longer sufficient or available. But my system does not do that as it stands today.
Did you ever get a satisfactory answer to your question? I've noticed the same phenomenon with my Growatt SPF3000TL LVM-48P. Solar input turns completely off and battery state flips from charging to discharging even though there is more than enough solar power being generated to power the entire load. I'd prefer the battery to cycle as little as possible for longevity reasons.
 
Did you ever get a satisfactory answer to your question? I've noticed the same phenomenon with my Growatt SPF3000TL LVM-48P. Solar input turns completely off and battery state flips from charging to discharging even though there is more than enough solar power being generated to power the entire load. I'd prefer the battery to cycle as little as possible for longevity reasons.
Resolved my issue by using USE and setting Float voltage to the voltage recommended for my LiFePO4 batteries. Educated myself a bit more about what float means in regards to LiFePO4 batteries. Growatt is simply wrong, ironically, their inverter works perfectly maintaining float with LiFePO4 batteries. Many confuse LiFePO4 "Float" with "Float" used in other types of batteries. They are different. Because LiFePO4 batteries hold their voltage so well, they need very little to keep them topped off, you'll notice even while floating your batteries, very little current goes to your batteries especially if Solar is satisfying your load.
 
Resolved my issue by using USE and setting Float voltage to the voltage recommended for my LiFePO4 batteries. Educated myself a bit more about what float means in regards to LiFePO4 batteries. Growatt is simply wrong, ironically, their inverter works perfectly maintaining float with LiFePO4 batteries. Many confuse LiFePO4 "Float" with "Float" used in other types of batteries. They are different. Because LiFePO4 batteries hold their voltage so well, they need very little to keep them topped off, you'll notice even while floating your batteries, very little current goes to your batteries especially if Solar is satisfying your load.

Would you be kind enough to list your settings?
 
Would you be kind enough to list your settings?
Running two Power Queen Plus 12.8V 200Ah batteries in series. Per their manual, charge current should be between 14.2 to 14.6. per battery. Float should be set at 13.8. Since I'm running them in 24v configuration, I have setting 19 set to 28.4 and setting 20 "float" at 27.6. So far so good. As I stated above, once the batteries are fully charged, very little current is used to maintain them. I've got enough solar to last me until 5 ish, then I start pulling from the batteries.
According to my Victron Smart Shunt. I've pulled over 200Ah's from the batteries with these setting, so I'm happy. As of 11:30, batteries are full charged and holding at 28.4 volts, Shunt is showing 0 current. Everything is on solar right now.
 
Running two Power Queen Plus 12.8V 200Ah batteries in series. Per their manual, charge current should be between 14.2 to 14.6. per battery. Float should be set at 13.8. Since I'm running them in 24v configuration, I have setting 19 set to 28.4 and setting 20 "float" at 27.6. So far so good. As I stated above, once the batteries are fully charged, very little current is used to maintain them. I've got enough solar to last me until 5 ish, then I start pulling from the batteries.
According to my Victron Smart Shunt. I've pulled over 200Ah's from the batteries with these setting, so I'm happy. As of 11:30, batteries are full charged and holding at 28.4 volts, Shunt is showing 0 current. Everything is on solar right now.
Many members here learned this the hard way after hours of frustration. It is one of those things with GW and MPP, the float voltage is where you want the battery to be sitting at when you need to start pulling power from it. Many believed that holding float close to bulk charge setting would damage the battery cells but as long as you set for the lower knee area on the voltage curve, I don't see how.

If damage was to occur, it should be at the bulk charge voltage which is higher than float.

You buy batteries to use them and calendar aging may have a bigger effect on cell life than cycling to the lower knee of the voltage curve. At 27.6V, you are somewhere in the area of 3.45V, right in the knee area. I prefer DIY batteries with individual cell monitoring thru the BMS, this allows one to observe each cell and how it performs closer to max charging voltage of 3.65V; then adjust total battery bulk charging and float to keep runners in the knee area. This also aids in BMS cell balancing as many BMS's will not balance until the cells are above a set voltage.
 
Many members here learned this the hard way after hours of frustration. It is one of those things with GW and MPP, the float voltage is where you want the battery to be sitting at when you need to start pulling power from it. Many believed that holding float close to bulk charge setting would damage the battery cells but as long as you set for the lower knee area on the voltage curve, I don't see how.

If damage was to occur, it should be at the bulk charge voltage which is higher than float.

You buy batteries to use them and calendar aging may have a bigger effect on cell life than cycling to the lower knee of the voltage curve. At 27.6V, you are somewhere in the area of 3.45V, right in the knee area. I prefer DIY batteries with individual cell monitoring thru the BMS, this allows one to observe each cell and how it performs closer to max charging voltage of 3.65V; then adjust total battery bulk charging and float to keep runners in the knee area. This also aids in BMS cell balancing as many BMS's will not balance until the cells are above a set voltage.
Lots of good info online, will get you 90%. But, like with most things, getting info on the last 10% is the hardest like to float or not to float and how to ground. Bonded or not bonded. o_O ?

I'd love to build my own batteries, but don't have the time to research, way to many irons in the fire right now. Not to mention I'm expanding my solar use at the house. The more plug an play the better. :)
 
Lots of good info online, will get you 90%. But, like with most things, getting info on the last 10% is the hardest like to float or not to float and how to ground. Bonded or not bonded. o_O ?
Most just hook things up, never realizing they created created a parallel path.

Just reading many threads here, you will find most do not have a clue on how to proper bonding when using an inverter.

It will depend on how the inverter manufacturer handles N-G bonding, then applying the proper wiring schematic.

I'd love to build my own batteries, but don't have the time to research, way to many irons in the fire right now. Not to mention I'm expanding my solar use at the house. The more plug an play the better. :)
 
Prefacing with my equipment and relevant settings.

Equipment:
-Growatt 12000DVM-MPV
-Victron SmartSolar 250|100
-3x 16s 230Ah EVE @ 35.3kWh (No thanks to Micheal Caro. ....mfer)
-3x JBD SP25S03 16s 100a BMS (Overkill = Same, Same)

Settings:
-Growatt
1 - SOL​
5 - USE​
19 - 54.9 (Bulk Setting - Constant Current)​
20 - 54 (Float Setting - Constant Voltage)​

-Victron
Absorption - 54.4 (I want Growatt handling float loads)​
Float - 54​

-JBD BMS
55.2 Pack Overcurrent Protection​
3.45 Single Cell Overcurrent Protection (Yes, I'm being aggressive)​


Spent many hours resolving this issue over the past few days, watching my Growatt complete bulk, go over voltage and stop charging until complete disconnect/reconnect of all power sources. What I have observed to likely be the case that myself and you all have been experiencing is that the Growatt's charge controller is hitting the overvoltage cutoff on the BMS and the BMS stops accepting charging current. When that happens, it looks to me as though the charger doesn't adjust to float fast enough and goes overvoltage.

When I had my bulk voltage set at 56.8, depending on the BMS cutoff at 54.4 instead, the BMS would hit 54.4, cutoff, and the charge controller would briefly log something at 57.x before faulting "overvoltage". This is because it is using constant current still and the without the resistance of the pack, the voltage spikes and causes an overvoltage condition at the charge controller. Probably should have logic built-in to catch that and move to float faster (like my Victron will), but it's a $2k 12kW inverter...

Either way, this is abuse of the BMS, something I had let slip my mind in initial configuration as well. We don't want the BMS constantly cutting off with constant current always being tossed at it, then switching back and forth between accepting charge and not whenever load pulls it beneath cutoff voltage.

We should be setting the constant current cutoff voltage (bulk) at the charge controller and this should be just slightly below our pack/single cell BMS cutoff voltage. This way the charger always hits its bulk voltage first and has the opportunity to drop to float (constant voltage).

The best way I found to get exactly what you're looking for in maximum capacity while still staying under the BMS overvoltage is to watch the individual and pack cell voltages on the BMS while the charge controller is ramping up at the very end of its bulk. There is voltage drop between the charge controller/inverter and BMS, so simply setting the charge controller bulk cutoff just under the cutoff at the BMS is not going to work (constant current). That's why I have my bulk cutoff set at 54.9 before going to float, even though my individual cell voltages add up to 55.2 and pack voltage is same. Keeping the Growatt bulk set at 54.9 saves the day and stops JUST before the cells hit 55.2 or 3.45 at any single cell on the BMS. Setting any higher still triggers cutoff at BMS and goes overvoltage on the charge controller.

Now that I've got this corrected, the charge controller hits the bulk cutoff properly and transitions into float, rebulking at some unknown value that is not configurable (...but it does appear to be doing it properly).


Other things to consider:
  1. I have the Victron charge controller being used in parallel with the Growatt. The voltages need to be adjusted there as well, if you're using a second charge controller, to make sure you're not pushing the voltage on your DC bus over the Growatt's overvoltage or you'll likely see the same shutdown behavior for that as well. I adjusted my absorption voltage there so that the Victron is staying in absorption below where the Growatt seems to be floating and no load is coming off it, leaving the Growatt to do the work at that point.
  2. I don't think this Growatt charge controller has absorption logic built-in. The manual discusses it in the AC charger section, but I think it's just an example of how it works, lol. It's certainly not configurable and doesn't seem at all like it's doing it. You can simply set a bulk voltage and let it pull current till it gets there, then drop to constant voltage for float. The only way I could think of to force absorption would be to try to use the equalization settings for this, where you can set a voltage to equalize with a time to stop, but I'm not going there at this time. This also leads me to.....
  3. If you're using USE, please, PLEASE, make sure that you either have equalization disabled or at the very least have the voltage set no higher than 56.8. If you didn't have a BMS or had it misconfigured, that mistake could be no bueno.

Anyway, just thought I would share my observations and what I found to work. WAY more headache than Victron was, but this thing was 40% the cost of the Quattro 15000/48 and has another 120a charge controller, so....here we are.
 
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As predicted MPPT charging resumed once battery voltage dropped to 52.4V , so about 1.5V below float 54V.

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Hello, so here is what I did and it has been working fine for me. If you got the WIFI adapter and can access the Growatt server go into settings under your WIFI adapter's settings, select/input the setting you wish to change, I did mine per manufacturers data sheet. Once your changes are done, save that profile/settings and use the the following format. enter growatt20220810 use small letters no caps, then current year, then month, then date, then save it, you will see a very fast notification so keep an eye for it right in the center after you click save, it should say something to the effect that your save took, after I did that every setting is just the way I change it to now the batteries are charging/maintaining the voltages I specified. Try it! Let everyone else know if it works for real, like I said IMO the inverter is doing what is supposed to do. All is working good, except that there is a wobbling sound coming from the fans, at low rpm, anyone else has that issue too? I'm I loosing my mind? Forgot to mention the mode still US2 I never change it to any other mode.
 

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