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Growatt SPF 3000TL HVM-48 can it run without battery to load?

Rumbaar

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Melbourne, Australia
Growatt SPF 2000-5000TL HVM - spec's here.

I was looking at the 24V system but want to run the max voltage for a limited number panels (only room for 3 panels), now I've seen plenty of videos for the LVM (120v) systems but not any (in English) for the HVM models. Now I want to setup my shed with 3 panels and have it charge a 48V Lithium battery, but also in Summer direct feed 240V to a pool heater/filter.

I can see the ES models expliciltly state they can run with batteries, but cannot seem to see explicit confirmation these units can run without a battery to deliver load to 240V AC. But the ES models have a high start-up volatage (150+) and I'll not have the power to run those on only 3 panels.

Has anyone had direct experience with these, to confim?
 
My Growatt will not operate without a battery. I contacted them directly and they said you MAY be able to build a super capacitor bank that could substitute for batteries. But with mine it shuts down every time I tried to remove the battery even when it had full solar power and it shut down.
 
My Growatt will not operate without a battery. I contacted them directly and they said you MAY be able to build a super capacitor bank that could substitute for batteries. But with mine it shuts down every time I tried to remove the battery even when it had full solar power and it shut down.
Thanks for the response. So you have the same model, the SPF xxxxTL HVM?

Next question, with the battery connected will exessive solar be first used by a load if the battery is full? Or does it need to charge/draw from the battery at all times? Will it use solar first and then battery?
 
I have the LVM .. not familiar with HVM.

For your second question this guy made a nice video ..
 
As far as I know most need a battery hooked up. Except for the one that doesn’t;) I forgot what it’s called.
 
I have the LVM .. not familiar with HVM.

For your second question this guy made a nice video ..
The LVM is the 120V version and HVM is the 240V version, from what I can tell. Looking at the video and your experience, under Solar + Battery mode, will it draw from the solar first and then from the battery as needed?

As far as I know most need a battery hooked up. Except for the one that doesn’t;) I forgot what it’s called.
Yeah, that the "ES" models I mentioned.
 
Yep, with Growatts (least the low end ones I have used) no battery = dead inverter. Bites many a people when the batteries are low and go into standby and they have no way to charge an 48v or 24v battery. Even if you did buy a battery for your application, you will need someway to externally charge it if in fact the battery did go into protect.

Even if you design a system to never draw from the battery, BMS are sometime difficult and go into protect for odd reasons, thus always needing a way to charge just in case.

You can have PV input, gen input or mains input into a Growatt but without a battery, nothing.
 
Yep, with Growatts (least the low end ones I have used) no battery = dead inverter. Bites many a people when the batteries are low and go into standby and they have no way to charge an 48v or 24v battery. Even if you did buy a battery for your application, you will need someway to externally charge it if in fact the battery did go into protect.

Even if you design a system to never draw from the battery, BMS are sometime difficult and go into protect for odd reasons, thus always needing a way to charge just in case.

You can have PV input, gen input or mains input into a Growatt but without a battery, nothing.
Ah, I'm looking to have a 48V 100ah battery installed with this setup. But I guess the low voltage cutoff (DoD set high 20%+) once solar is gone, the next day it'll be important to ensure it has enough power left to start up the inverter just to receive solar input. The ES model this wouldn't be an issue, but I'll not have enough panels to power it :cry:
 
Ah, I'm looking to have a 48V 100ah battery installed with this setup. But I guess the low voltage cutoff (DoD set high 20%+) once solar is gone, the next day it'll be important to ensure it has enough power left to start up the inverter just to receive solar input. The ES model this wouldn't be an issue, but I'll not have enough panels to power it :cry:
Good approach, just have way out if the batteries go in protect. I have seen the Growatts draw about 35 watts idle, so safe to assume that is all they would require to get going. I say such as you could wire up 4 small 12 volt batteries in series to bump start the inverter, in lieu of buying a charger.
 
Good approach, just have way out if the batteries go in protect. I have seen the Growatts draw about 35 watts idle, so safe to assume that is all they would require to get going. I say such as you could wire up 4 small 12 volt batteries in series to bump start the inverter, in lieu of buying a charger.
It's certainly something I hadn't thought about in my setup, that it wouldn't work at all with no battery. So you've helped with that planning, and I'll just need to see how I go with how low it can go to ensure it has enough left to start the next day, irrespective of the season.
 
Oh joy. I am a victim of this too. I did have quite a low voltage for switch to grid, and the battery voltage was 22.4. However, it seems that the inverter still draws power when on grid? Why did the voltage drop even more for the BMS to shut off? I have 2P2S 12v batteries where the voltage is 10 volts. and 1 battery in each series shut off, so inverter shut down. So this inverter must draw power from batteries while on grid. It was not graphed by Solar Assistant though, that showed 0 amp. Does new firmware resolve this by chance?

Note that even when sun came up, it did not turn on either and try to charge the battery. Very poor design....

Note that I have the 3000watt 24 version, acts the same way
 
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