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Growatt SPF 5000 ES Wiring for 0 Export / Need help

I have my growatt 5000es setup like you describe. Check out my diagram I posted. I am trying to get it verified, so use at your own risk. Any questions on inverter settings, let me know. I can send you what mine is set to, and what settings do.View attachment 65543
This is how these units are to be set up, you can forget all the videos on YouTube they are wrong. I spoke with Signature solar and these are international units, even the videos on signature solar are incorrect and will be removed. I was working with a electrician and his plan called for wiring them this way, I gave him the new schematic. This is why I have stated to always speak with a professional, it takes 5yrs to become a Master Electrician. Watching a few videos and reading a forum (with people doing what we now know was wrong) is not the way to go.
 

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Is that the final version of the diagram?
It is still not safe if L1 or L2 make contact with the chassis.
Read more about it here:
 
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Is that the final version of the diagram?
It is still not safe if L1 or L2 make contact with the chassis.
Read more about it here:
That's what they told me today and they stated the Chassis do not need to be grounded.
 
That's what they told me today and they stated the Chassis do not need to be grounded.
WOW! They said that. I hope they have good lawyers and lots of money, just think what will happen if L1 or L2 makes contact with chassis and you touch it while standing on the ground or touch other equipment that is properly grounded.
I will post this in that link.
I hope you have the name of the person at SS that told you that.
I think you need to remove the diagram you have been posting beside the one in this thread until the approved version is released after peers review.
 
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That's what they told me today and they stated the Chassis do not need to be grounded.

You can believe them, or you can believe me :)

In the thread/posting Bud linked for you, it quotes my description of the safety issue I observed.
I suggest you present my concern to your electrician.
 
This is how these units are to be set up, you can forget all the videos on YouTube they are wrong. I spoke with Signature solar and these are international units, even the videos on signature solar are incorrect and will be removed. I was working with a electrician and his plan called for wiring them this way, I gave him the new schematic. This is why I have stated to always speak with a professional, it takes 5yrs to become a Master Electrician. Watching a few videos and reading a forum (with people doing what we now know was wrong) is not the way to go.
Did the electrician actually look at the path of the fault current of L1 or L2 back to the utility ground where the L1/L2 of the utility come from?
 
I am not seeing a real issue here, just a hypothetical one. What would the circuit board to move closer?
 
I am not seeing a real issue here, just a hypothetical one. What would the circuit board to move closer?

Circuit board moving and making contact was a somewhat different issue, just about removal of a screw to make European model work for US split-phase 120/240V system.

We aren't sure how the PCB traces are configured. If removing the screw caused PCB trace to move just a few mils out of contact, then vibration, temperature change, or warping of the wall it is mounted to might cause it to make contact. A spike of noise on the utility grid could arc across. Code and design standards require certain airgap (clearance) and distance across dielectric (creepage) to ensure no fault. It is possible removal of the screw does result in a large gap meeting requirements (could be the situation if screw itself completes path to case, rather than PCB clamped to case.)

This issue I was referring to was anything that happens to make contact. This can include a wire that comes loose, or a fault in an appliance that is connected. Chassis is supposed to be bonded to ground with a wire back to the source. If a short occurs, chassis voltage is held near earth potential, and so much current flows (greater than 5x circuit breaker rating) that breaker trips in about 10 milliseconds.)

Because there is no ground wire from the GroWatt circuit back to ground of the utility entrance, a short from line to chassis can cause chassis and "ground" of all its circuits to be at 120V.

And I've since realized that piping in the house, for instance gas line, might complete circuit of ground from GroWatt back to utility connection. If so, that defeats the isolation, which was intended to solve other problems. Those problems return, but this time with perhaps several amps running through gas pipes.
 
This is how these units are to be set up, you can forget all the videos on YouTube they are wrong. I spoke with Signature solar and these are international units, even the videos on signature solar are incorrect and will be removed. I was working with a electrician and his plan called for wiring them this way, I gave him the new schematic. This is why I have stated to always speak with a professional, it takes 5yrs to become a Master Electrician. Watching a few videos and reading a forum (with people doing what we now know was wrong) is not the way to go.
It takes more than 5 years to become a master electrician for the majority of those wanting to attain that rating! Just saying! DIYers need to be very aware of grounding & bonding & the use of auto transformers in these Chinese inverters!
 
I have my growatt 5000es setup like you describe. Check out my diagram I posted. I am trying to get it verified, so use at your own risk. Any questions on inverter settings, let me know. I can send you what mine is set to, and what settings do.View attachment 65543
I understood we can not have a nutral or ground from grid with the transformers? I totally remove them from my wiring. Am I wrong here,? Thanks for any input.
 
1. All equipment must be grounded.
2. Two N/G bonds is a big no. (As in that picture)
3. Neutral is tricky, and delt with differently per installation.
 
This is how these units are to be set up, you can forget all the videos on YouTube they are wrong. I spoke with Signature solar and these are international units, even the videos on signature solar are incorrect and will be removed. I was working with a electrician and his plan called for wiring them this way, I gave him the new schematic. This is why I have stated to always speak with a professional, it takes 5yrs to become a Master Electrician. Watching a few videos and reading a forum (with people doing what we now know was wrong) is not the way to .
 
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Don't follow that diagram. It puts current on the ground conductor in bypass mode. Someone can get seriously hurt. And, it could burn down your house.
Ok what do you suggest. My nuteral and ground are not bonded in box.
 
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A neutral wire from the main panel to the loads panel.
No N/G bond in the loads panel. And the autotransformer should be disconnected when in bypass mode. So, it should be connected between the inverter and the transfer switch. In the "AC out" panel. And no input to the inverters from grid. (At least not when the output is connected to the loads panel)
 
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A neutral wire from the main panel to the loads panel.
No N/G bond in the loads panel. And the autotransformer should be disconnected when in bypass mode. So, it should be connected between the inverter and the transfer switch. In the "AC out" panel. And no input to the inverters from grid. (At least not when the output is connected to the loads panel)
I have had error 8. I stopped using bypass mode. I no longer allow grid to connect to inverter. I am running in solar battery mode. My first inverter was defective so I was told.. I have reconnected new one three days ago. First night code 8 in the morning. I restarted run for hour but was not comfortable with the way it stayed in bypass mode always. After hour or so,turned off grid in put . Now it in SBU mode with no grid coming in. Sol only for battery charge. It seems to perform great now.
First inverter did experince plug fire,so I do beleive your experienced advised. All my grounds are connected to one ground running to 20 foot copper bar set down 40 foot deep into dry well. Very rocky here.
I have attached diagram of my wiring currently. If you would please see if I am safe.
 
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I have had error 8. I stopped using bypass mode. I no longer allow grid to connect to inverter. I am running in solar battery mode. My first inverterwas defective so I was told.. I have reconnected new one three days ago. First night code 8 in the morning. I restarted run for hour but was not comfortable with the way it stayed in bypass mode always. After hour or so,turned off grid in put . Now it in SBU mode with no grid coming in. Sol only for battery charge. It seems to perform great now.
First inverter did experince plug fire,so I do beleive your experienced advised. All my grounds are connected to one ground running to 20 foot copper bar set down 40 foot deep into dry well. Very rocky here.
I have attached diagram of my wiring currently. If you would please see if I am safe. I hope diagram is clear. The green dots are the grounds from transformer,inverter ac in,ac out,load box,house box all connected to ground rod. No nuetral from grid. Nuetral from transformer to load box to house box. Nuetral and ground not bonded any place. Each on seperate bars in each box. Wish I had bought mppsolar now. Oh well next unit plans are different. I appreciate any help you would like to give. Seems you are better qualified.
 
All of your grounding should go back to your main service panel. You need a neutral from the main service panel to the loads panel. The transformer needs to be connected ahead of the transfer switch. (It shouldn't be connected when grid is selected)
 
All of your grounding should go back to your main service panel. You need a neutral from the main service panel to the loads panel. The transformer needs to be connected ahead of the transfer switch. (It shouldn't be connected when grid is selected)
Ok this would allow grid to be used with nuetral and ground again. As it is transformer is necessary when operating grid only. This solves my future plan for mpp inverter install that needs nuetral. It will be in seperate load panel feeding ac units only.
I hope I understand that the main service panel is the breaker at the grid meter?
 
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