diy solar

diy solar

Growwatt 6k Shore Power Issue

CalContainer

New Member
Joined
Aug 12, 2022
Messages
5
So heres my setup, I have two 48v 100AH batteries in series feeding a Growatt 6k all in one. When connecting to shore power from a 220 dryer outlet sparks come flying out the side. See video at the bottom 4:40 is where the magic happens. Any suggestions.....Help me rhonda......




1 Overview.JPG
2 Outlet.JPG
3 Breaker.JPG
4 AC input.JPG
5 Battery Conections.JPG6 Batteries.JPG

 
So heres my setup, I have two 48v 100AH batteries in series feeding a Growatt 6k all in one. When connecting to shore power from a 220 dryer outlet sparks come flying out the side. See video at the bottom 4:40 is where the magic happens. Any suggestions.....Help me rhonda......




View attachment 106596
View attachment 106597
View attachment 106598
View attachment 106599
View attachment 106600View attachment 106601

Holy crap. Would have scared me.

Does it do this every time?
Does the inverter still work?
 
Oh ya me to.....

So backstory is that Signature Solar replaced the inverter, after a whole tech support process. But i've got the new one and its all hooked up but i'm trying to do my do diligence before I turn everything on. No idea what went wrong, or what to do different from signature solar other than to not power from a plug, which makes no sense to me.


The inverter did this every time, the time I filmed was the third time it happened. I would shut everything off and try again in 5 mins.

It worked for the first three times, no fault codes, nothing. After that it stopped turning on and it went back to Signature. Hoping to avoid a repeat.......
 
Did you ever try it with the ground disconnected?

Check voltage at the dryer plug:

L1-G and L2-G should be120VAC
L1 to L2 should be 240VAC

confirm you have the wires correctly mapped to the terminals.

(Yeah, I know, you've probably done this at least a few times).

When powered by utility, does that unit release the internal N-G bond it has when inverting?
 
If I were you I would run a dedicated 240v wire from your service panel directly to the inverter.
As stated above. No neutral needed. That being said.
Use your black and red hot legs and the ground and plug and play. Don’t connect the neutral to anything.
 
Bless You, mighty solar sorcerers.

L1 to L2 is 240 indeed. I didn't understand the whole ground/neutral thing....

So what I should do is run L1 and L2 and then ground just to ground.
 
Bless You, mighty solar sorcerers.

L1 to L2 is 240 indeed. I didn't understand the whole ground/neutral thing....

So what I should do is run L1 and L2 and then ground just to ground.
I’ve got the same inverter and I just installed it a couple weeks ago with no wiring issues.

My only issues with the growatt so far has been firmware related which was fixed with an update.
If anything weird or out of the ordinary starts happening a update will probably fix it.

You need to verify that you have a ground!

Ground and neutral are two different wires.

Neutral is usually white in the USA.

Ground is usually a bare copper wire in the USA.

First things first.

Locate the breaker in your service panel for this dryer outlet.

Next follow the wiring off of the breaker.

Verify what wiring you have.

it’s going to be ONE of two scenarios.

L1-L2-N which is worst case scenario for your inverter. Transformer pops and sizzles.

Or L1-L2-G which is unlikely.

If you’re getting sparks I think it’s safe to say you have option 1 -which is L1-L2-N

You need L1-L2-G coming from your electrical service panel.

Your service panel should have an earth ground.

I would run a dedicated line from a new double pole breaker from your service panel directly into the growatt.
Now once again. This new dedicated line will have a neutral…don’t hook it up.
Simple as that.
As long as that white neutral wire doesn’t go into the inverter you should be okay.
L1-L2-G
Red-black-bare copper.

Here’s where it gets a little more in depth.

Coming out of your inverter….you will have a neutral for your AC output.
Then you can use L1-L2-N to power a sub panel.

Lastly and just to be extra clear.
AC INPUT=NO NEUTRAL NEEDED
AC OUTPUT=NEUTRAL NEEDED
 
I have the Exact same issue. EXCEPT My input is N1-N2. Ground (from box). Output L1-L2-N in subpanel.
Sparks and popping no fault code. I disconnected everything.
 
Yep. 3 prong dryer plugs are L1, L2, N with no ground. They are regarded as hazardous by current code.
It's actually 2 live and ground. The old regs allowed the ground to be used as neutral for 120v timers in old dryers.
NEC didn't like the ground carrying any current so changed code to include the neutral in dryer and stove circuits.
 
Change your charge from AC current down to 10-20amps and I bet it will not do it again.
I think the problem is when it switches to charging the battery and it draws too much current through the change over relays.
If it continues to work after doing this, there is no way it was anything silicon doing that, but can only be the relays.
 
Back
Top