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Has anyone tried this 12v 3000W LF inverter?

Andy6ft4Tall

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I was wondering if anyone had any experience with this 12v 3000W (230v-240v) inverter from Aliexpress? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000091920526.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.2dda3c00krhkRs&mp=1
Looking at the spec the charging voltage looks to be geared towards charging Lead Acid batteries and i was wondering if you can change the charging setting to work with Lifepo4?
Or is there an alternative Low Frequency inverter i should look at in the same sort of price range?
With shipping to the UK it's roughly £360
 
That is a really low price for a 3000W Low frequency Inverter Charger. It does not look very configurable, but a quick look at the charge voltages seems reasonable.

If it is a reliable unit, it might be really nice for a lot of installs..... but that is the problem.... is it reliable?
 
That is a really low price for a 3000W Low frequency Inverter Charger. It does not look very configurable, but a quick look at the charge voltages seems reasonable.

If it is a reliable unit, it might be really nice for a lot of installs..... but that is the problem.... is it reliable?
They say it's got a 9000W surge and i'm never going to use much more than 2000W at any given time in my van, leaving a healthy buffer of 1000W.
Plus it charges at 75A from shore power at 14.3V.
So i'm hoping it should last a long time (fingers crossed)
At that price I think it's worth a punt.
I could spend the same sort of money on a 3000W High Frequency inverter and could end up in the bin.
In the UK I would have to spend £390 to get a 3000W Giandel.

I have read a couple of good reviews online, on different websites that are selling the same HF inverters but you never know if they are genuine reviews?
 
That is a really low price for a 3000W Low frequency Inverter Charger. It does not look very configurable, but a quick look at the charge voltages seems reasonable.

If it is a reliable unit, it might be really nice for a lot of installs..... but that is the problem.... is it reliable?
does the weight look right for a low frequency inverter?
 
Why does the LCD display show PV input? Do they know what they are selling?
You have the option for shore power input, solar input and wind turbine.
Because the inverter is a LF (edit) unit it can have multiple inputs, plus many LF (edit) inverters will also charge the battery while plugged into shore power.

When you plug into shore power the inverter has a bypass function to directly power AC appliances and charge the battery with 10A to 75A.
You can also choose to wire the solar charge controller directly to the battery as well. Giving you a Solar input and mains shore power input at the same time.
When you consider the cost of an AC 75A battery charger on it's own (£80-£120) it makes this type of HF inverter a bit of a bargain.
I did read a couple of funny reviews about this inverter, that said they connected the inverter to a car starter battery with very thin cables and then they wondered why they couldn't power a 1500w hover/vacuum.
There were other reviews that stated they had used 2x70mm2 cable connected to a 300Ah Lifepo4 battery and pulled 3000W easily.
Apparently the 90mm PC fan is a bit load so the swapped it out for a quiet fan that ran lower RPM's.
They also confirmed the inverter is programmable to charge Lipo4 cells and to select AC charge Amps from 10A up to 75A.
The instruction manual is in broken English (Chinglish)
I found retailer in the Netherlands but they are not interested in supplying any information.
I'v only found one retailer that can supply this unit with a remote display unit with the ON/OFF function.
Pure sine wave inverter
▶Selectable high power charging current
▶Selectable input voltage range for home appliances and personal computers
▶Configurable AC/Battery input priority via LCD setting
▶Compatible with genrator power
▶Dry contact port for generator to realize mutual control by generator and utility
▶Auto restart while AC is recovering
▶Overload and short circuit protection
▶Cold start function
▶Supports lithium batteries
▶RS 232 communicate port (remote control panel optional)

I have only found one seller that can supply the additional remote control.
 
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How would you feed the unit with PV panels? It does not have any PV input Voltage spec, or what topology it uses for Solar charger, I.E. PWM, MPPT.
It is not Solar Charge Controller, it is just Inverter/charger, so PV input is not applied to this unit.
It is also not HF Inverter, it uses large power transformer..
 
They say it's got a 9000W surge and i'm never going to use much more than 2000W at any given time in my van, leaving a healthy buffer of 1000W.
Plus it charges at 75A from shore power at 14.3V.
So i'm hoping it should last a long time (fingers crossed)
At that price I think it's worth a punt.
I could spend the same sort of money on a 3000W High Frequency inverter and could end up in the bin.
In the UK I would have to spend £390 to get a 3000W Giandel.

I have read a couple of good reviews online, on different websites that are selling the same HF inverters but you never know if they are genuine reviews?
Yes, this is real. I have the 2000W version. I bought last year and have only used on & off but it works well. I am still setting up my grid so have had a HF inv running light loads. My only complaint is 2000W model is EI transformer while the ad said toroid. This 3000W one will be toroid which has lower idle power.
 
How would you feed the unit with PV panels? It does not have any PV input Voltage spec, or what topology it uses for Solar charger, I.E. PWM, MPPT.
It is not Solar Charge Controller, it is just Inverter/charger, so PV input is not applied to this unit.
It is also not HF Inverter, it uses large power transformer..
Sorry my mistake. I meant Low Frequency but I was typing at 2am in the morning and then i went to bed without posting my comment. Then i woke up this morning and started up my PC and noticed i hadn't posted the comment.
I would connect my MPPT directly to the battery. (Not to the inverter) So i will edit my original comment above.
All this LF inverter does is sense there is a charge from solar.
You can switch between AC shore power input or solar input. Nothing more.

I think i have found the company that manufactures this LF inverter and i have lots of questions to ask them, before i come back with any additional information.
 
I advise getting a Victron Multiplus ( with UK dealer support plus a 5 year warranty) and avoid the unknown approach the Aliexpress unit has to the neutral to earth bond. Unless this bond is made and released according to the availability of shore power, the AC system in the van is unsafe, and possibly illegal.

If you are never going to use more than 2000 watts get a quality inverter of that rating.

Incorrect install of questionable inverters without current leakage protection operational , in my view, is an irresponsible action.

Unless care is taken with the installation using an inverter that meets European safety regulations with full operational earth leakage protection, fault conditions could harm those inside the van using appliances or outside in contact with the ground and touching the van metal.

Unfortunately in the UK there is no mandatary test of an AC system unless the RV is rented out to a 3rd party.

Further reading on the issue in the Wiring Unlimited, page 60 onwards,

Mike
 
The Samlex EVO line of inverters is worth looking at, as well. This is a well-known and liked line of inverters that directly competes with Victron. There are pros and cons of both. Samlex only carries a 2 yr warranty, but they also don't carry the same cost premium Victron does (these are among many other pros and cons).
 
that thing looks like a sigineer. their 2nd gen or whatever they call it. does not mean it is though.


If it is then at least that's the physical profile of them. if it is one of theirs then they are not bad units use a little more idle power than top tier but they are low cost, offer replacement parts at a reasonable cost. (you have to install or pay a shop to do it.) Disclaimer: I am researching their 18KW 3 phase unit is why i know this.
 
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I advise getting a Victron Multiplus ( with UK dealer support plus a 5 year warranty) and avoid the unknown approach the Aliexpress unit has to the neutral to earth bond. Unless this bond is made and released according to the availability of shore power, the AC system in the van is unsafe, and possibly illegal.

If you are never going to use more than 2000 watts get a quality inverter of that rating.

Incorrect install of questionable inverters without current leakage protection operational , in my view, is an irresponsible action.

Unless care is taken with the installation using an inverter that meets European safety regulations with full operational earth leakage protection, fault conditions could harm those inside the van using appliances or outside in contact with the ground and touching the van metal.

Unfortunately in the UK there is no mandatary test of an AC system unless the RV is rented out to a 3rd party.

Further reading on the issue in the Wiring Unlimited, page 60 onwards,

Mike
When you consider Shore power on a campsite will have an RCD.
My van has the correctly sized RCD breakers for the 240v shore power/Inverter input.
The inverter has two trip switches.
Every 240v socket in my van has an RCD.
The two earth/neutral connections will feed back to the shore power earth.
I have a 250A breaker from the battery to the inverter.
The inverter chassis will be screwed/bolted to 25mm (1 inch) plywood, which isolates the inverter from the vehicle body.
Yes i understand the inverter needs to be grounded to a true earth when its not connected to shore power but there are tens of thousands of inverters that connect the earth/ground to the vehicle chassis which is a false earth. In effect making the vehicle body live with 110v-240v if there was an electrical fault.
Thankfully i dont have any bare metal inside the van that i can physically touch.

Yes i will be using 2000w or slightly above 2000W at certain times.
No one should expect a reliable constant supply by running the inverter at the top end of it's capacity for a long period of time. Doing that guarantees the inverter will fail very quickly.
An inverter should always have a buffer of at least 30% capacity, if you want it to function over a long term basis.

Yes if i had money to burn i would buy a Victron inverter but like many people i'm upgrading my electrical in my van on a budget.
For the price of a 3000W Victron MultiPlus (£1400) i can almost build my complete electrical system.
So far i have
2x new 400W solar panels £210
2x Epever 40A MPPT £200
70A B2B (DC-DC charger) £ 70
600Ah of prismatic cells £800
2x 200A BMS from JBD £139
Total so far = £1,419 (plus £100 ish on cables, breakers etc)

Sadly a 3000W Victron MultiPlus at a cost of £1400 is simply not in my budget.
 
The concept of connecting the neutral to protestive earth cable when using an inverter, to ensure that a RCD will function, is difficult to digest at first.
Consider for a moment the shore supply for 230AC outlets in your van. Due to the higher risk where electricity is used in an outdoor situation, the regulations require a double pole RCD and MCB at the campsite supply bollard and a second set of RCD/MCB in your van. At the supply bollard the neutral conductor is bonded (connected) to the protective earth conductor and also connected to the power station 'ground' the dirt. Once the supply is in the van, the van metal work is connected to the protective earth cable, the green/yellow cable.
You are now protected against an over current fault by the double pole RCD ( there are effectively 2 in series in case one fails to operate).

If there is any fault with the electrical equipment inside the van such that current flows through equipment to 'ground' ( the van shell and any metal appliance in now the 'ground') due to a fault or through a person, over 30mA, the RCD will trip. Again you have 2, so if one fails to function there is a backup.

The RCD that protects you against electric shock will only work when connected to shore power, if all the following conditions are met,
a) there is a 'bond' at the supply bollard where the neutral wire is connected to the earth protective conductor and a connection to ground earth, the dirt.
b) the protective earth conductor ( green and yellow wire) is connected to the van metal and via the connections and the internal cables to any metal appliance or metallic parts of the heating, cooking and water system that are 230AC powered.

When you are disconnected from shore power and using a permanently installed inverter you are effectively setting up your own power station.
Thus to meet the requirements for the RCD to operate down stream of the inverter, you have to meet the requirements a) and b).
Now a) and b) are a bit easier to implement because the 'dirt' earth can be the van metal, but at the inverter, the protective earth cable must be connected to the neutral cable and to the inverter casing and to van metal. Inverters sold by reputable companies for a permanent install will either have this 'bond' already in place or have provision for doing so. Not all inverters can be connected this way.

Life can be more complicated when the inverter incorporates autochanger and/or charging facilities. In this case the inverter package or some additional equipment must look after the neutral to protective earth bond inside the van. The rules are simple, when connected to shore power the neutral to earth bond is at the supply bollard and the inverter bond is open circuit. With no shore power connected the neutral bond at/in the inverter is closed.
What must not happen is both bonds being active at the same time. Should a 'bond' in the van and a 'bond' at the supply point, be active at the same time, not only is this dangerous, as very high voltages can develop with certain faults in the power distribution system, its also illegal, the going to jail kind.

There is no indication with the limited info on the inverter you are considering, that it looks after this neutral to earth bonding. It may be there but I suspect not.

There are a number of points you make in you post that are incorrect and/or unsafe.
inverter chassis will be screwed/bolted to 25mm (1 inch) plywood, which isolates the inverter from the vehicle body.
This is against advice from every inverter installation manual in existence. The inverter chassis must be connected to the van metal, the 230 AC protective earth and the battery negative. Ideally the cable from the case should be one size down from the cables carrying power from the battery to inverter.
i understand the inverter needs to be grounded to a true earth when its not connected to shore power but there are tens of thousands of inverters that connect the earth/ground to the vehicle chassis which is a false earth. In effect making the vehicle body live with 110v-240v if there was an electrical fault.
Dont fully understand the point you are making.

My points, when away from shore power the van metal should become your 'earth', 'ground' or whatever you wish to call it.
If fault occurs that attempts to make the van live, protective circuits in the inverter or a RCD fitted after the inverter or the fuse/breaker on the inverter input will trip, thus voltage will never appear on the van metal. If there is no connection between the inverter case and the van metal, an internal fault in the inverter that made the case live would not be detected.
If the neutral connection to earth conductor to van metal was not in place the RCD would not work.
dont have any bare metal inside the van that i can physically touch.
unless you connect the protective earth of your 230v AC to the van metal there is a risk for you inside the van, or anyone outside the van.


Mike
 
The concept of connecting the neutral to protestive earth cable when using an inverter, to ensure that a RCD will function, is difficult to digest at first.
Consider for a moment the shore supply for 230AC outlets in your van. Due to the higher risk where electricity is used in an outdoor situation, the regulations require a double pole RCD and MCB at the campsite supply bollard and a second set of RCD/MCB in your van. At the supply bollard the neutral conductor is bonded (connected) to the protective earth conductor and also connected to the power station 'ground' the dirt. Once the supply is in the van, the van metal work is connected to the protective earth cable, the green/yellow cable.
You are now protected against an over current fault by the double pole RCD ( there are effectively 2 in series in case one fails to operate).

If there is any fault with the electrical equipment inside the van such that current flows through equipment to 'ground' ( the van shell and any metal appliance in now the 'ground') due to a fault or through a person, over 30mA, the RCD will trip. Again you have 2, so if one fails to function there is a backup.

The RCD that protects you against electric shock will only work when connected to shore power, if all the following conditions are met,
a) there is a 'bond' at the supply bollard where the neutral wire is connected to the earth protective conductor and a connection to ground earth, the dirt.
b) the protective earth conductor ( green and yellow wire) is connected to the van metal and via the connections and the internal cables to any metal appliance or metallic parts of the heating, cooking and water system that are 230AC powered.

When you are disconnected from shore power and using a permanently installed inverter you are effectively setting up your own power station.
Thus to meet the requirements for the RCD to operate down stream of the inverter, you have to meet the requirements a) and b).
Now a) and b) are a bit easier to implement because the 'dirt' earth can be the van metal, but at the inverter, the protective earth cable must be connected to the neutral cable and to the inverter casing and to van metal. Inverters sold by reputable companies for a permanent install will either have this 'bond' already in place or have provision for doing so. Not all inverters can be connected this way.

Life can be more complicated when the inverter incorporates autochanger and/or charging facilities. In this case the inverter package or some additional equipment must look after the neutral to protective earth bond inside the van. The rules are simple, when connected to shore power the neutral to earth bond is at the supply bollard and the inverter bond is open circuit. With no shore power connected the neutral bond at/in the inverter is closed.
What must not happen is both bonds being active at the same time. Should a 'bond' in the van and a 'bond' at the supply point, be active at the same time, not only is this dangerous, as very high voltages can develop with certain faults in the power distribution system, its also illegal, the going to jail kind.

There is no indication with the limited info on the inverter you are considering, that it looks after this neutral to earth bonding. It may be there but I suspect not.

There are a number of points you make in you post that are incorrect and/or unsafe.

This is against advice from every inverter installation manual in existence. The inverter chassis must be connected to the van metal, the 230 AC protective earth and the battery negative. Ideally the cable from the case should be one size down from the cables carrying power from the battery to inverter.

Dont fully understand the point you are making.

My points, when away from shore power the van metal should become your 'earth', 'ground' or whatever you wish to call it.
If fault occurs that attempts to make the van live, protective circuits in the inverter or a RCD fitted after the inverter or the fuse/breaker on the inverter input will trip, thus voltage will never appear on the van metal. If there is no connection between the inverter case and the van metal, an internal fault in the inverter that made the case live would not be detected.
If the neutral connection to earth conductor to van metal was not in place the RCD would not work.

unless you connect the protective earth of your 230v AC to the van metal there is a risk for you inside the van, or anyone outside the van.


Mike
seems to me as long as he has a grounding rod that he plants every time he sets up camp he should be fine. my inverter is grounded to the frame of the camper but unless I drop the stabilizer legs of the camper there is no true ground/earth.
 
@Andy6ft4Tall think this is the same inverter, the shipping seems to be free in the UK. It came up as £0.00 in my basket
 
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