Yes, I did apply there last week. My income was to high even though I I lost my job and have a family of 4. They looked at the last 30 days of income. But, I am still trying to be accepted with them.Have you been in touch with these people?
Energy Assistance (EA)
To design and deliver high-quality human services that help Virginians achieve safety, independence and overall well-being.www.dss.virginia.gov
Heat and cool an RV off Solar only
- Thread starter Vafarmer
- Start date
I’m willing to pickup and haul to the recycling if you know someone who is excepting in Lanexa Virginia.
I have a Toyota Tacoma and I’m willing to load it to the max. I’ve been looking but, can’t find anything
OffGridForGood
Catch, make or grow everything you can.
"RV"
OffGridForGood
Catch, make or grow everything you can.
yeah, i meant this as an example, try calling places that get stuff delivered in wood crates that are not reused.
ones I know are auto glass shops, pipe suppliers, maybe Recreational Sports places.
Samsonite801
Solar Wizard
- Joined
- Oct 15, 2020
- Messages
- 2,998
The one thing I'll say I don't like about the Big Buddy heaters is that they are direct-fire indoor burn, meaning they burn propane indoors (not using a heat exchanger like a propane furnace uses to blow the propane exhaust outside).
They are indoor-rated meaning they don't put out toxic levels of carbon monoxide, but it is still highly advisable to have an indoor carbon monoxide detector for indoor-rated direct-fire propane heaters, in case if they malfunction and somehow if they did produce higher levels of CO emissions, just to make safety disclaimer...
Since they are direct-fire, you are getting basically all of the heat conversion from the combustion inside the cabin space, so it is more efficient at heating per dollar. However, what I don't like about direct-fire propane is, if you know anything about propane, one of its byproducts of combustion is water vapor, so it creates high humidity inside the RV, unlike the built-in RV furnace (which uses a heat exchanger to transfer only the transferred heat from the burn to the cabin, while blowing the propane combustion outside). So the direct-fire, creates condensation on the inside of the windows (and possible on the walls as well). This can damage the inside of the RV over time (if not careful, can make black mold inside the walls in the insulation).
But the real issue is, I have to watch my windows every morning and if they have too much condensation on them, I open my roof vents a little more to try and mitigate the condensation, let the humidity escape. Sometimes, I see it dripping down water from the window and soaking into the window sill at the bottom, had to use towels to dry it all off.
I would much rather use the RV furnace but it uses a lot more propane. I might rather go for the diesel heater options as they likely have a heat exchanger and blow exhaust outside, just transferring the heat inside.
Or I may someday look and see if they make propane RV furnaces that are rated high-efficiency, like they would have a secondary set of heat transfer tubes to further cool the exhaust before it blows it outside (my furnace blows super hot exhaust out the chimney so I know it wastes more energy).
Once I get my 500 gallon stationary propane tank soon, I might look at using the RV furnace more (use half furnace, half Big Buddy, instead of 2 Big Buddy heaters only), since the bigger problem was just going through bottles too fast, and me having to drive about 60 miles (on a mostly gravel road) to fill them all up way too often.
Like today for example, lots of snow, steep hills, muddy spots, and scary drive in the box truck in places. I had a smaller 4x4 I used to use, but I hit an antelope awhile ago and totaled it out, so I've had to use my big box truck or my Prius to make propane runs, and 10 bottles is hard to fit in my Prius.
Last edited:
Correct.
Which is why I said DO NOT use a ventless heater…
AnarchyJet
New Member
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2021
- Messages
- 98
Lot's of good advice here but I feel you are no closer to an answer because there are many variables. Sounds like you lost a job and had to take a lower paying one causing a rapid downsize in lifestyle. What is your timeline for living in the RV? Solar is a long term investment, you can by a generator and a lot of fuel for $6000. You may be better off going that route 6-12 months until a better opportunity comes along. If this is going to be your new home and you plan to live off grid for years then I would start a small 48v AIO system that could be expanded as budget allows.
Your situation is unfortunate, but you can get a second job to pay for fuel. Many folks in your shoes that have multiple jobs too make ends meet no shame in that. That would make me feel better than asking for help from people you don't know.
RV10flyer
Solar Wizard
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2021
- Messages
- 1,193
You are correct! 20.6kW barely produced 10kWh one day this last week, 20kWh several more. Thankfully we have 2000lb 143kWh battery
robby
Electronic Engineer
- Joined
- May 1, 2021
- Messages
- 5,188
I don't want to sound harsh but the situation sounds really bad and trying to bail out a boat with a hole in the bottom is not a solution!
If it was me I would sell the Land for cheap, quit my Job and drive that RV to a warmer State like Florida.
Then get it into an RV park with power and look for a new Job, which is pretty easy to find right now.
If it was me I would sell the Land for cheap, quit my Job and drive that RV to a warmer State like Florida.
Then get it into an RV park with power and look for a new Job, which is pretty easy to find right now.
OzSolar
Whatever you did, that's what you planned.
The moving south enough to get an area that rarely needed supplemental heat and squatting on remote NPS or USGS land until someone caught onto me was going to be my suggestion but I didn't want to be the first person to mention it.
OzSolar
Whatever you did, that's what you planned.
Relying heavily on solar for winter heating is super tricky. Honestly it's a pretty bad idea. Long cold nights and short cloudy days are a pretty wicked combination.
My summer angle optimized but totally unshaded 18kW has already had many days struggling to make more than 10 kWh this month.
I’m extremely blessed. I got let go from my job making $70k and they just called back offering me $75k to come back and work for them. I admit I really freaked out during the past few weeks. When you have a family to take care of and only have one person working. I felt helpless but, I’m definitely looking at purchasing a solar system to power the RV. I’ll be using propane for heat. But, solar will be my main source of power. I’ll be living in the RV for atleast a year. Still thinking about this system below. Unless anyone can think of a better value for the money.
shopsolarkits.com
Lite Solar Power Kit [LPK-PRO] - ShopSolar.com
Lite Solar Power Kit [LPK-PRO] | Lifetime Customer Support (Email, Live Chat, Phone) | Shop Now
shopsolarkits.com
Here too: I make about 0.5kWh a day from a 10kW array. Wood is the only real option here where I am if you want to be off-grid.
stienman
Mostly Harmless
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2021
- Messages
- 490
I'm really glad you've been re-hired! I don't know the history between you and your employer, but I'd suggest polishing your resume further, and keep yourself open to new opportunities. If they fired you once without good reason, it's reasonable to assume they'll do it again when it suits their needs. Make sure your linkedin is up to date, and connect with all the recruiters that ask to connect with you - the next time you find yourself in this situation, the more people you know looking for employees in your field, the faster you'll get back on your feet, and the more likely you'll find an even better opportunity than the one you're currently in.
This system is essentially the same, though only half the battery capacity, but you can buy a lot more battery for the $2,000 it saves you compared to the shopsolarkits product you're considering:
The inverter and MPPT charge controller are in one box, so there's less wiring to deal with. It is a 24v system, though, so it won't directly power your RV 12v system - there are advantages to sticking with 12v, and at this level of power and storage it's a coin flip - you could choose a 12v system such as this one:
And power your RV appliances and lighting directly from the batteries, integrating the solar system into the RV power system. This way you'll only have to deal with 120v and 12v, whereas with a 24 or 48v system you're adding another different voltage standard into the two already onboard, and you will always be running a 12v converter to keep the 12v system alive for basic RV energy.
Sticking with 12v means it'll be easier to sell the RV with the solar system, but it also means you're limiting your expansion of the system - as you consider going above 3kw of AC output, you'll start to find 12v systems are less efficient and less common than 24v and 48v. On the other hand, 24v is not a great place to settle at either.
Were I in your shoes, I'd consider doing a 12v install, and then I'd build a small workshop with the beginnings of a 48v system that would get me started building the house.
Also, spend some money on insulating your RV. Adding skirting is a good start, but you might even want to spend the money building a shelter around the entire RV, such as
You might have to buy two to fit your RV, you might have to elevate it, and/or build it around the RV, trapping the RV inside. But adding that second layer is going to make a significant difference in your heating costs and comfort. Make certain the heater (water and heat) vent to the outside of the shelter. When it snows, pile the snow around the edges to seal them better, or use hay bales. Add a cheap door to ensure the seal all around is good. Here's a step further to improve your heating situation:
- they also have earlier videos about their carport, along with pros and cons, and feedback regarding a specific carport product.
Good luck, and keep asking questions!
...solar will be my main source of power. I’ll be living in the RV for atleast a year. Still thinking about this system below. Unless anyone can think of a better value for the money.
Lite Solar Power Kit [LPK-PRO] - ShopSolar.com
Lite Solar Power Kit [LPK-PRO] | Lifetime Customer Support (Email, Live Chat, Phone) | Shop Now
This system is essentially the same, though only half the battery capacity, but you can buy a lot more battery for the $2,000 it saves you compared to the shopsolarkits product you're considering:
The inverter and MPPT charge controller are in one box, so there's less wiring to deal with. It is a 24v system, though, so it won't directly power your RV 12v system - there are advantages to sticking with 12v, and at this level of power and storage it's a coin flip - you could choose a 12v system such as this one:
And power your RV appliances and lighting directly from the batteries, integrating the solar system into the RV power system. This way you'll only have to deal with 120v and 12v, whereas with a 24 or 48v system you're adding another different voltage standard into the two already onboard, and you will always be running a 12v converter to keep the 12v system alive for basic RV energy.
Sticking with 12v means it'll be easier to sell the RV with the solar system, but it also means you're limiting your expansion of the system - as you consider going above 3kw of AC output, you'll start to find 12v systems are less efficient and less common than 24v and 48v. On the other hand, 24v is not a great place to settle at either.
Were I in your shoes, I'd consider doing a 12v install, and then I'd build a small workshop with the beginnings of a 48v system that would get me started building the house.
Also, spend some money on insulating your RV. Adding skirting is a good start, but you might even want to spend the money building a shelter around the entire RV, such as
You might have to buy two to fit your RV, you might have to elevate it, and/or build it around the RV, trapping the RV inside. But adding that second layer is going to make a significant difference in your heating costs and comfort. Make certain the heater (water and heat) vent to the outside of the shelter. When it snows, pile the snow around the edges to seal them better, or use hay bales. Add a cheap door to ensure the seal all around is good. Here's a step further to improve your heating situation:
Good luck, and keep asking questions!
stienman
Mostly Harmless
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2021
- Messages
- 490
Also, the above youtube link is not an endorsement of pure living for life. Their early stuff can be interesting to watch, but they made a lot of mistakes, and are, at best, click-bait youtubers for the majority of their videos. Take what you can from them, and leave the rest.
John Frum
Tell me your problems
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2019
- Messages
- 15,224
I often wonder what their cat is up to.
Have you considered putting up a high tunnel greenhouse?
www.nrcs.usda.gov
You could get one large enough to park the RV in which would offer some protection from the elements and keep it warmer in the winter. / Give you a space to grow some vegies in the spring and summer. Some black painted IBC totes or 55 gal drums filled with water could give you more thermal mass to help keep it warm over night and keep it from getting too hot in the day. Contact the soil conservation folks in your area and there are grants available where they cover a % of the cost. We have one on our farm that we grow in year round without any additional heat. Granted only cold hardy plants in the winter and then under a 2nd cover inside. It could be a win win, food you grow yourself in the summer is like untaxed income. Less heating required in the winter. Or cover with a shade cloth in summer.
In the past we have purchased seeds from Dollar general at the end of the season for 90% off. A few cents for a pack of seeds that could turn into seedlings you could sell for a few $ each ...
We got ours here https://noltsgreenhousesupplies.com/ but there are other places
back on the topic of solar.
Don't pay to ship batteries, get flooded rather than gel/agm and maintain them. See if you can get used golf cart batteries from a golf course / service station for the price of the core charge ... if they work great if not use them as a core or sell for scrap.
Even harbor freight sells a solar panel now https://www.harborfreight.com/100-watt-monocrystalline-solar-panel-57325.html
I've found used / damaged solar panels online that are a better deal though.
These are near you
There are opportunities
| Natural Resources Conservation Service
You could get one large enough to park the RV in which would offer some protection from the elements and keep it warmer in the winter. / Give you a space to grow some vegies in the spring and summer. Some black painted IBC totes or 55 gal drums filled with water could give you more thermal mass to help keep it warm over night and keep it from getting too hot in the day. Contact the soil conservation folks in your area and there are grants available where they cover a % of the cost. We have one on our farm that we grow in year round without any additional heat. Granted only cold hardy plants in the winter and then under a 2nd cover inside. It could be a win win, food you grow yourself in the summer is like untaxed income. Less heating required in the winter. Or cover with a shade cloth in summer.
In the past we have purchased seeds from Dollar general at the end of the season for 90% off. A few cents for a pack of seeds that could turn into seedlings you could sell for a few $ each ...
We got ours here https://noltsgreenhousesupplies.com/ but there are other places
GrowSpan Gothic Premium High Tunnels - 20'W - FarmTek
<p class="es-catalog-item__summary">GrowSpan Gothic Premium High Tunnels, with 6'H sidewalls, sufficiently modify the environment to enhance crop growth, quality and yield. Ideal for a wide variety of crops, these high tunnels offer temperature control and protection from wind, rain, disease and...
www.farmtek.com
back on the topic of solar.
Don't pay to ship batteries, get flooded rather than gel/agm and maintain them. See if you can get used golf cart batteries from a golf course / service station for the price of the core charge ... if they work great if not use them as a core or sell for scrap.
Even harbor freight sells a solar panel now https://www.harborfreight.com/100-watt-monocrystalline-solar-panel-57325.html
I've found used / damaged solar panels online that are a better deal though.
These are near you
345 watt Monocrystalline Solar panels - business/commercial - by...
345 watt Monocrystalline Maxeon Gen III solar panels for sell. 96 solar cells per panel with 6.02 amp production. Each has a TS4-D box affixed to the back with tails. I have 19 left. They are pre...
richmond.craigslist.org
Solar Panels (large commercial type) - materials - by owner - sale
Fresh stock of 300 solar panels from Arizona solar farm, these used panels are value priced, have been tested and have good output. These are large panels 39" wide X 65" tall rated at 240 watts...
richmond.craigslist.org
There are opportunities
John Frum
Tell me your problems
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2019
- Messages
- 15,224
This ^
sunshine_eggo
Victron's little biatch
I'm glad you've finally landed here. You may find that there are local suppliers willing to drop a 420# (100 gallon) propane tank at your RV. That's what we did. $75/year to rent + a slightly discounted price on propane delivery.
That $5K kit isn't a particularly good value. What they're not telling you is that simply having the inverter powered on will consume 25% of your battery bank's capacity and about 300W of the array (in good solar conditions, far more in bad) - that's if you use no loads whatsoever. The only way to avoid that loss is to turn the inverter off thereby losing all AC power.
As it has been pointed out, Winter performance of solar is often atrocious.
Good to hear you have you well paying job again. Try to get a handle on your expenses so that you can build up a rainy day fund. Since you now have an income find a place you can afford to ensure your family is comfortable.
Similar threads
