The issue i have with moving them is the top heavy nature of the system.
Standard tanks are basically evenly weighted, the window unit on top kinda makes it unwieldy.
Heat Pump water Heaters
- Thread starter onokai
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Standard tanks are basically evenly weighted, the window unit on top kinda makes it unwieldy.
Quattrohead
Emperor Of Solar
400 to 500 watts, you are going to love it
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HighTechLab
AKA Dexter - CTO of Current Connected, LLC
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It was about 6 inches taller than the old one, plus we added the stand underneath it to make draining it easier. There are ABS vents for the furnace and ducting that forced me to scorch away from the wall, and the hardware store was closed for me to get more sealtite for the wiring…but alas we’ve got hot water!!!
kscessnadriver
Solar Enthusiast
I actually just replaced mine. We had a 50 gallon electric resistance heat tank and a 40 gallon tank that was used to "pre-heat" (I say pre-heat as it wasn't on, just brought water up to room temp from the well. Replaced both with an 80 gallon heat pump unit. Richmond brand (menards house brand), it was an older model on clearance, $1500. So between their 11% rebate, the federal 30% for a heat pump unit install, plus my power company offers a rebate of $800 for a conversion from electric to electric heat pump, it was basically a no brainer.
Should be about 500 watts of electricity with a COP around 4 so 2000 watts of heat into water 1500 watts pulled from air or around 5000 btu/hr cooling while running.
I am amazed so far with this water heater set at 120 degrees.The app says I'm using 2-3 kw a day. so My solar panels and batteries(22.5KW) are easily keeping this poart free for electric costs. The air the heater ius using is coing from inside our kitchen and exusted into a shed outside where the heater lives. The warm air intake is like a periscope box that sound deadened so it pretty quiet . I live in a neutral climate and expect results will be about the same most of the year.
That is a bad way to route the airflow.
If the air is coming from the home, it needs to return to the home.
If it exhausted outside, it needs to draw from outside.
The way you have it will depressurize your house, causing outdoor air and contaminants to be drawn into the home from every crack and crevice in the home, negating much of your insulation in those areas.
If you MUST draw from one location and discharge elsewhere, reverse what you have, and pressurize your house.
Far more efficient.
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(That is a bad way to route the airflow.
If the air is coming from the home, it needs to return to the home.
If it exhausted outside, it needs to draw from outside.)
I realize this but this house is far from airtight and we always have a window cracked to accommodate the inflow outflow
If the air is coming from the home, it needs to return to the home.
If it exhausted outside, it needs to draw from outside.)
I realize this but this house is far from airtight and we always have a window cracked to accommodate the inflow outflow
fuzzmunky415
Solar Addict
Indeed..our slider doors ARE our HVAC system. We have gas heat, but have very rarely used it, too much lint in the ducts to bother.
I understand.
However...
If you have the unit discharging into the house instead of sucking from the house, the air blowing out will cool and dehumidify the house.
Negative pressure pulls from EVERYWHERE... not just your cracked window.
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