• Have you tried out dark mode?! Scroll to the bottom of any page to find a sun or moon icon to turn dark mode on or off!

diy solar

diy solar

Help Setting up Victron Smart Shunt, and buying a charger or converter for LiFePo4

I got this notice this morning:
1736529001758.png

Does this mean I should set the smart shunt to a 280 capacity instead of 300ah? I feel a bit bamboozled. Should I return it? I don't think most other 280's will even fit in this battery box. I spent about 2 days getting this box attached and everything hooked up too. I guess I feel like I'm getting screwed no matter if I decide to keep it or not.

Also, just got the victron 30 amp charger. Will this do the same thing as the converter only better? Meaning if I turn on lights in the trailer etc, it can basically put out the power to run those?
 
Last edited:
I found the review:
I already spent time setting up a mounting solution around this battery, so I'm hesitant to return it since it still seems like a good value? Plus I think I would need to replace with 2, 100ah batteries to keep the battery box I just purchased. I could switch to an aluminum tool box and eat the cost of this nice stainless box, then re-do the entire installtion with a larger battery I guess...

Probnably just going to end up keeping the inferior product I suppose. Or maybe I should just buy the new 300ah when it comes out and throw this one out. I'd honestly rather spend another $500 than waste days of time coming up with another mounting solution....
 
As I recall, the 304 Ah cells use the same form factor as the 280 Ah cells. So when they do upgrade to the higher Ah cells, the battery box itself probably won't change.
I could return the battery, then throw my old lead acid batteries back in for now. They are kinda worn out though. But they might buy me enough time to wait for the improved version of this battery. I haven't installed the Victron 30amp charger yet. Not sure if it's worth the effort or not. Nor do I know when the new updated battery will be available...
 
If I have my math right, you got 8% less capacity than you thought you paid for. At least on paper. They said the cells "tested" out at 300 Ah - it's not completely out of the realm of possibilities, but I'm skeptical. If that's the case, then in the field then you're getting what you paid for.

Depending on how you use your system, you may not have even noticed the possible 8% difference in capacity.

While I would be a bit peeved, I would stick with what I had and call it good. The effort of taking it out of service, reordering and putting the new one in service may not be worth the effort. If I was planning on additional batteries anyhow then I would take the discount and not worry about the shit eating grin on my face. 😁
 
Well i can't install the charger next to the battery but hopefully behind the panel near the old converter will do.

I don't have an outlet back there too plug it into though.

The panel's ground block is full, but I can double up on a slot, or remove the converter's AC side from the 120v panel. (I thought it might be a good backup since I could just leave the breaker off) But I could completely disconnect it...

Should i cut the end of the plug off and run it directly to the circuit breaker for the old converter? Or install a new 120v outlet behind the panel? Basically buy a box and outlet and run some romex too it and then just plug it in to a new outlet?

Then i gotta figure out how to connect it to my 4awg run the 100/50 is connected to, or to the trailers old 6awg run. Looks like I should have bought larger distribution blocks since all the ports except the 1/0 port on them are in use.

I think i should fuse the wire coming out of the charger? The converter does not seem to do this... I was going to hook it to a fused distro block that would be a couple feet away, but it had a maximum of 30 amps per slot (which i guess should work ok) if that's not good enough then I think I should buy another inline fuse holder I guess?
 
Last edited:
unless you use a ton of power will you ever use 280 or 300ah capacity

My battery has enough reserve capacity to last about 3 days
On the second day if it is still cloudy and rainy............... will begin looking for somewhere to plug in

I never want to get to 100% discharge ... if I was getting anywhere near that I'll be adding more capacity
 
unless you use a ton of power will you ever use 280 or 300ah capacity

My battery has enough reserve capacity to last about 3 days
On the second day if it is still cloudy and rainy............... will begin looking for somewhere to plug in

I never want to get to 100% discharge ... if I was getting anywhere near that I'll be adding more capacity
Yes I would have gone with more battery, but I couldn't find a battery box for the tongue of the trailer to house them. Everyone here suggested putting them somewhere else, but then I'm looking at a major project, and losing another year or so while I figure it out. Like building a custom cabinet in the bathroom, and a significant rewire etc. We went to the 300ah (which is actually a 280) from 2, 240ah 6 volts. The hardest part for me was matching a battery to the box. I was going to buy 460 epoch but couldn't find a way to fit it. Next trailer I buy some day will have a place on the interior to put a few batteries. And will certainly be a front bedroom with a pass through under it. But without the fast charging from the converter I didn't think it was much of an upgrade, Street the first few days i was running the generator mute than before. Of course the battery "might" last longer. We got 8 years from the 6 volts although with diminished capacity the last couple years.

Wife likes to stay inside and watch TV, so it's easy to burn through the battery, even though I'm limiting usage by only using a 600 watt inverter. Also the furnace and CPAP seem to drain it pretty good at night. We have also added an electric cooler. That's where the small generator is nice, it holds less than a gallon of gas and can run for hours. I have a feeling I'm be adding a second 30 amo charger, but one is easier for now.

I ordered a 3 foot 14awg extension cord. I will cut the head off it and run it to the circuit breaker the converter was plugged into. Then plug the charger into that. If i feel i need a second one, I guess i will run romex and install a new outlet inside the bottom of the pantree cabinet.
 
Yes I would have gone with more battery, but I couldn't find a battery box for the tongue of the trailer to house them. Everyone here suggested putting them somewhere else, but then I'm looking at a major project, and losing another year or so while I figure it out. Like building a custom cabinet in the bathroom, and a significant rewire etc. We went to the 300ah (which is actually a 280) from 2, 240ah 6 volts. The hardest part for me was matching a battery to the box. I was going to buy 460 epoch but couldn't find a way to fit it. Next trailer I buy some day will have a place on the interior to put a few batteries. And will certainly be a front bedroom with a pass through under it. But without the fast charging from the converter I didn't think it was much of an upgrade, Street the first few days i was running the generator mute than before. Of course the battery "might" last longer. We got 8 years from the 6 volts although with diminished capacity the last couple years.

Wife likes to stay inside and watch TV, so it's easy to burn through the battery, even though I'm limiting usage by only using a 600 watt inverter. Also the furnace and CPAP seem to drain it pretty good at night. We have also added an electric cooler. That's where the small generator is nice, it holds less than a gallon of gas and can run for hours. I have a feeling I'm be adding a second 30 amo charger, but one is easier for now.

I ordered a 3 foot 14awg extension cord. I will cut the head off it and run it to the circuit breaker the converter was plugged into. Then plug the charger into that. If i feel i need a second one, I guess i will run romex and install a new outlet inside the bottom of the pantree cabinet.
just use it as is, if your handy and have no room, you can go 2 stories on the battery box.

cpap and tv might be able to run on dc, this would cut inverter losses. that dc cooler is a heavy hitter if its the cheaper ptc versions and not compressor versions. your issue was you simply weren't charging at a high enough voltage, and you have decent loads, watch the shunt, it will tell you the amount of power ur using.

if your handy you can build very fast chargers for pretty cheap if your trying to limit generator time, or just run the generator when large loads are being used. people chase no generator builds, but generator costs can be substantially cheaper to run, then the upgrades needed to not run it, i've done ROI on stuff, short of the noise issue, the generators are still by far cheaper to run, then solar and battery upgrades.
 
just use it as is, if your handy and have no room, you can go 2 stories on the battery box.

cpap and tv might be able to run on dc, this would cut inverter losses. that dc cooler is a heavy hitter if its the cheaper ptc versions and not compressor versions. your issue was you simply weren't charging at a high enough voltage, and you have decent loads, watch the shunt, it will tell you the amount of power ur using.

if your handy you can build very fast chargers for pretty cheap if your trying to limit generator time, or just run the generator when large loads are being used. people chase no generator builds, but generator costs can be substantially cheaper to run, then the upgrades needed to not run it, i've done ROI on stuff, short of the noise issue, the generators are still by far cheaper to run, then solar and battery upgrades.
Yea I don't plan to not use the generator, but when I use it I want to charge the battery. Cooler is an iceco compressor version. I just need to finish wiring up the new victron 30 amp charger. Going to try everything with one charger, but I wired in a new outlet so it would be easy to add a second one. (just have to get larger distribution blocks)
 
Has this been suggested? Haven't read your entire thread and not trying to hijack.


They have WFCO converters and upgrades.

I just replaced my '97 Lance OEM Converter with this:
It has a "Charge Wizard" for LA batteries and a simple pin placement to move to Li.

And I also have the 300/280ah WattCycle but I bought it with full knowledge of the shortcomings. (Moving away from PO's 5yr old, 3-12v LA batteries).
I've yet to complete the installation having just replaced the converter/charger yesterday. Mine is an ultra-basic 12v with no inverter, using factory wiring so no high amp wiring needs or fuses. Loads are limited to LED lights, water pump, furnace & ceiling fans. I have a Honda if when I need microwave or AC.
Question I have remaining is whether to install a MegaFuse and what size? Maybe as small as 60a? Or a 40a Maxi?
There is a self-resetting 12v/50a OEM breaker on the hot side.

Other than a dead short I have no excessive loads.
200w of solar to be increased to 400w pending boondocking results.

EDIT: In my 5er (not the Lance) I'm in the habit of running only my wife's O2 Concentrator (much more load than Cpap) on the 2000w inverter overnight. We do not use the TV and when we need the microwave, AC, or such I simply fire up the twin Honda 2200i tied together. Everything else we need, the 4 6v LA batteries and solar handle (going to increase the solar and maybe go Li on the 5er as well).
Just pointing out that with a generator in the equation, things can be simplified.
 
Last edited:
Probably just going to end up keeping the inferior product I suppose. Or maybe I should just buy the new 300ah when it comes out and throw this one out. I'd honestly rather spend another $500 than waste days of time coming up with another mounting solution....
I don't view it as an inferior product, just mis-labeled. Will's review was pretty positive other than the lack of high current cutoff, that if properly addressed should be a non-issue. Or are my glasses rose-colored?
 

diy solar

diy solar
Back
Top