Shawn Hayes
Learning Everyday
I checked settings, temps settings, etc.. nothing seems off?Has everything else passed,wizard setup, device sync? I made changes one time and forgot to sync and that caused the bypass to fail.
I checked settings, temps settings, etc.. nothing seems off?Has everything else passed,wizard setup, device sync? I made changes one time and forgot to sync and that caused the bypass to fail.
The only thing I found was if I made changes and forgot to sync the bypass would fail. I will take a few screenshots in the toolkit for comparison and upload tomorrow. I did enable multi-string so a few of the functions will be different.I checked settings, temps settings, etc.. nothing seems off?
You could try lowering the amps to something under 1.7 or less then try it again.I checked settings, temps settings, etc.. nothing seems off?
Finally got bypass test to pass. Had to uninstall software, reinstalled and setup process again. Passed.These are my settings with out active cooling the default settings hit the thermal limit very quickly.
I was not able to determine why but I have both banks of 4p16s connected together and running 1/2 the house again.Finally got bypass test to pass. Had to uninstall software, reinstalled and setup process again. Passed.
@kromc5 did you finally figure out why you had rogue or runaway cells?
Good deal. I was curious because I don’t remember seeing or hearing a final resolution to the problem that you have posted.I was not able to determine why but I have both banks of 4p16s connected together and running 1/2 the house again.
If I had to guess prior it was not using any float. I'm still conflicted on float, prior I had it disabled. It's currently starts to float at 53.74. Before during charge and discharge they started to deviate little by little. During the charge they would charge to around .3v of each other but then deviate faster on discharge. It has only been two days but both banks have only deviated by .1v.
Here's what I did to try and make sure all 128 batteries were at close as possible:
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Very new to solar but started purchasing items, not sure of the final specs of the whole system.
Middle bank was 53.28, Top bank was at 53.97. Since the soc was similar with just slightly higher voltage I did not expect to many amps. I did connect using two wires with 30 amp fuses just incase. What were the measure amps? Max I recorded was 22.9, dropping to 6.13 in about 8 minutes.diysolarforum.com
Definetly post some pictures, with float they are staying very close so far no devation of more than .1v. The seconday affect is the inverter/charge controllers in float take care of the loads. They fluctuate between .1 to .001+/- through out the evening. Also the total kwh production is much higher and the graph is very stable instead the high discharge/charge that it was doing before. Due to the float and low variations I suspect that the soc is also better for the evening before sun down.Good deal. I was curious because I don’t remember seeing or hearing a final resolution to the problem that you have posted.
I ended up changing my set up to a 16s4p. It was a little more expensive that way because I ended up buying 64 Blockmons, one for each cell and only using one Batrium.
Do not have my packs in parallel yet, waiting on the last two packs to settle down a little bit before paralleling.
I will post some pictures soon so that you can see what I have got set up. Thanks for the link I will check that out when I have a chance later today.
Can you provide any info on the 48v to 24v converter used?I used one like this:
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You may have to shop around for one with larger amp rating or use two since you have two inverters. You could easily use two with the batrium (assuming you have the expansion board). You might want to see how your inverters handle being disconnected from the battery while under load.
If you get a shunt trip, make sure it's 24v (or if you can find one that will work with battery voltage). There are a few youtubes on wiring like. I went the route like this guy did with a 48v->24v converter which powers the batrium and provides power for the shunt trip. The Batrium will run on up to 65 v and you can tap your battery for 24v for the shunt, but I didn't know if I would add any other gadgets like fans and 24v is common. So I went with a converter.
Sorry about that, I read the message and totally missed the title part.
8 x 51.2v x 280 ah = 114,688 or 114 kWh.
You will basically have 8 batteries of 14 kWh each. (I have 4 in the same capacity ordered)
I plan to make 4 sets of 16, each with their own Chargery BMS.
I am putting all 4 sets to a bus bar, aka a combiner, then to the charge controller.
Each set of 16 as its own battery to me will provide maximum longevity. I think I am overkilling with 4 BMS's going to each set.
My thinking is about the sheer size of the cells having so much capacity, and I want every single cell monitored.
Most of the time, energy independence come with an other way of consuming this energy.
Lean how to use less, 100kwh of batteries is a lot....
I had looked at that but many responded that 16s by 8 would be easier to manage and monitor.
Guys are not worry about something catching fire....?
Guys are not worry about something catching fire....?
My cells are in a concrete box, I can sleep nicely, I would not with this kind of setup...
Batteries... fire ... structure made of wood .. catch fire ... OSB .. more fire ... batteries now fall down .... walls on fire .. ? All that while you are asleep ...What's wrong with it, I don't sleep with the batteries
Batteries... fire ... structure made of wood .. catch fire ... OSB .. more fire ... batteries now fall down .... walls on fire .. ? All that while you are asleep ...![]()