Help with choosing solar panels for a Renogy Rover 40a !

[tomhanks]

Hello everyone! This is my first post and thank you in advance for the help and advice. I have learned so much here and am looking into building a more serious solar setup. I already have a small setup with a Renogy Rover 40a, but Im currently only using one small panel with it and would like to upgrade to more power. I was wondering if I could use 3 renogy 175w panels wired in series with my Rover or would that cause a problem as the total output would go over the 520w max? Thank you in advance for the help and all the knowledgable people out there on this forum

 

[tomhanks]

Sorry, i forgot to add, this is for a 12v system and a single 100ah battery!

 

[Rednecktek]

A link to the panels and SCC would be helpful just to check the VoC of the panels and the Max PV Input on the Rover. My bandwidth is krap.

Going with 525w of panel on a 520w SCC is fine, the only thing you need to worry about is that the panels voltage in series for a 3s is still 80% or less of the Rover's PV Input voltage.

Also, think about getting a 4th panel involved. Prime numbers really limit you on expansion whereas 4 panels would let you face a 2s string SE for morning sun and a 2s string SW for afternoon sun thus generating power longer through the day than waiting for the sun to hit your single string dead on for a short time.

I.E 350w of panels generating for 8 hours will produce more than 525w of power for 4 hours.

 

[tomhanks]

A link to the panels and SCC would be helpful just to check the VoC of the panels and the Max PV Input on the Rover. My bandwidth is krap.

Going with 525w of panel on a 520w SCC is fine, the only thing you need to worry about is that the panels voltage in series for a 3s is still 80% or less of the Rover's PV Input voltage.

Also, think about getting a 4th panel involved. Prime numbers really limit you on expansion whereas 4 panels would let you face a 2s string SE for morning sun and a 2s string SW for afternoon sun thus generating power longer through the day than waiting for the sun to hit your single string dead on for a short time.

I.E 350w of panels generating for 8 hours will produce more than 525w of power for 4 hours.

Thank you for the reply! Here is a link to the MPPT and panels https://www.renogy.com/175-watt-12-volt-flexible-monocrystalline-solar-panel/ https://www.renogy.com/rover-li-40-amp-mppt-solar-charge-controller/#
Unfortunately I cant mount the panels on my roof so I cant take advantage of using SE/SW to charge. I have to mount them on my plastic awning, thats also why Im probably going to be going with the expensive flex panels

 

[Rednecktek]

Thank you for the reply! Here is a link to the MPPT and panels https://www.renogy.com/175-watt-12-volt-flexible-monocrystalline-solar-panel/ https://www.renogy.com/rover-li-40-amp-mppt-solar-charge-controller/#

OK, so the Rover can take up to 100v DC input, and the panels are (actually) 24v (ok, so 23.9v)so you could do a 3s string for 58.5v @ 8.9a or 520w so you're about perfect there.
https://www.renogy.com/rover-li-40-amp-mppt-solar-charge-controller/#

Unfortunately I cant mount the panels on my roof so I cant take advantage of using SE/SW to charge. I have to mount them on my plastic awning, thats also why Im probably going to be going with the expensive flex panels

Ground mount? Sub frame of 1x4's? You've got weight constraints so those make sense, just be aware that the flexible panels are notoriously flakey so you're going to want to have some sort of cooling space behind them so you don't get hot spots. The depth of the frames on solid panels usually provides this but since you don't have that, care should be taken.

All-in-all it looks like a do-able project.

 

[tomhanks]

OK, so the Rover can take up to 100v DC input, and the panels are (actually) 24v (ok, so 23.9v)so you could do a 3s string for 58.5v @ 8.9a or 520w so you're about perfect there.
https://www.renogy.com/rover-li-40-amp-mppt-solar-charge-controller/#

Ground mount? Sub frame of 1x4's? You've got weight constraints so those make sense, just be aware that the flexible panels are notoriously flakey so you're going to want to have some sort of cooling space behind them so you don't get hot spots. The depth of the frames on solid panels usually provides this but since you don't have that, care should be taken.

All-in-all it looks like a do-able project.

Thank you for the input sir! I havent worked out the logistics quite yet, i might put a few on my shed as well depending on size once i get them. Youre a real pal